2-8-4 brass berkshire

Grandpa5,

First questions...Is the mechanism complete with a motor, drivers rods and valve gear mounted on a frame?  Is the motor a wound field motor AC/DC (Max Gray era)or Permag (DC only) US Hobbies.

Is the tender assembled and complete with trucks?

What parts do you think are missing?  Details or mechanical/electrical parts?

If detail components are missing, do you have the skills and equipment to solder brass components onto a model?  Many steam loco details are available from Precision Scale Company (PSC).  Their catalog is on line.  Just google "Precision Scale Company".

If the loco and tender are all there, wiring the model to run on 2 rails is simple.  Tender wheels should be insulated on the right side of the tender and drivers should be insulated on the left (fireman's side of the loco).  The object is to get a connection between the tender trucks that should be insulated from the tender frame to one of the motor brushes and the second brush connected to the loco frame.  If the motor is a wound field AC/DC motor you will need a full waver bridge rectifier connected to the motor to allow you to control its direction like a DC motor

Your post doesn't tell us much.

Joe Foehrkolb

Pictures would tell us all a lot,

I agree - without some vague idea of what is missing/broken/not connected, we cannot be of much help.

sorry about lack of info and as far as luck goes it's slim and none l8ly as i try to do what I can with what i have  so I'll add some pics and it may help --the tender is not complete but I think it's all there--the trucks are there the front pilot and trailing truck for engine are there   some wiring  is left but not enuf to tell me anything

Grandpa5.

Sorry,  I cannot open your photo files.

Joe

Looks like early Max Gray (non blackened frame).

Jay

After looking in the spotter guide.  I would say early Max Gray NKP Class S-3.  I would also say it's the passenger version because it has two generators though it could be used on freights also.  The prototype was built by Lima, the model by KTM.

Jay

I cannot open the pictures either.   they are some strange format, not typical photo format (jpg, tif, gif, bmp etc.)

I saw the photos on his first post.  I didn't see them earlier.

Jay

OK.  Assuming it is an early Max Gray as Jay has identified it,  it probably has a wound field motor unless an earlier owner re-motored the model.  If you want the model to run on DC with directional control, you will need a bridge rectifier.  One rated to handle 5 amps can be purchased for around $5.00 from several electronics sources.  I could send you a wiring diagram for the connection of the rectifier to the motor if that would help.  The tender trucks should be mounted to the tender frame on Micarta insulated pads with brass caps that make contact with the tender truck bolsters for power pickup.  Do you have those parts?

Joe

Joe,

From your reply I assume you can't see the photos.

The model has a DC KTM open frame motor (original? who knows).  The phenolic insulating pads are present also.

I'll see if I can re-post his photos.

Jay

I'll try to post the first photo.  There are more photos and I will attach them once I get verification that the first two can be seen.

Actually, even the iPad can see them from the first post.  Go back to the top.

It looks complete -just needs paint and assembly.  Take the top off the gearbox, clean and lubricate, and get some penetrating oil in the motor bearings.  Then SAE 30 or whatever your preference on motor bearings, axles, rods, etc, and rotate by hand.  Once free, assemble and enjoy.

I give up, that's exactly what I said earlier.

Jay

Your pictures showed up just fine.

John,

Thanks!  I'll re=post the rest of his photos.

I agree - you said it first.  Then somebody else said they couldn't see them so I thought I'd help.  No need now, your copies are much easier to deal with.

I still think all he needs is lubrication and assembly, and maybe more paint here and there.  I think that is my original contribution - so far nobody agrees with that.

very early max gray, some parts are turned brass instead of castings which came later

Grandpa2,

I see a minor repair needed to the rod that connects the valve gear to the lubricator and some basic cleaning, lubricating,reassembly and wiring.  Unless you want to do more work on the model, a competent repair man could probably get this loco running in about 4 to 6  hours at the workbench excluding painting.

Joe

Thanks to whoever fixed the photos.

I have a few Max Grey Locos and quite a few USHobbies locos built by KTM.      

I think this is typical Max Grey.    All the ones I have, came with DC motors, not Series wound.   I have heard that early ones did come with series wound, I just have not seen one.  In a twist from Lionel and MTH and the thought that their stuff runs too fast, some people think that the MG locos run too slow as delivered.

All my MG locos have turnings for the details, and the USH have Lost Wax Castings.

The fabricated brass gearbox and the connection between the motor and gearbox are typical MG like the ones I have.    I don't think it was remotored.

It has insulated drivers/wheels it appears, so it will run on 2 rail track easily.    That strange plate on the middle of the tender frame looks like someone tried to put a mount for a center rail pickup at some point.  

It the major mounting screws are there, it looks like the other parts are and the small screws can be gotten at a good hobby shop.   The screws will all be metric.   PSC still sells packs of the various size screws.   

My Guess is that it was set up at one time for outside third rail shoes.

Joe

Joe,

Yep, I believe you are correct.

Jay

If some of the screws are missing there may be an issue with replacing them with current metric ones.  MG/KTM models were manufactured with metric screws not complient with then evolving ISO (International Standards Organization) standards.  Later KTM used ISO fasteners.  Should this be an issue some of the holes may need to be drilled and re-tapped - not a show stopper but something to consider.

If the model was configured for three rail pickup (center or outside rail) check to see if the original owner reversed or shorted the drivers  - some did.  

From the pictures you have the pieces to reassemble a nice model.  Once you get it running you can always consider replacing the motor with a higher torque/lower current draw can motor, and possibly upgrading some of the details with high quality lost wax castings from PSC.  Either way you have a rugged model of a great prototype - enjoy the project.

Ed Rappe

first-I apologize for the photos-I 4get to make them windows friendly as I have a Mac--have to start puttin' stickies on monitor --2nd ,and most important,thank you all for your patience and your input --sorry Ed but original owner passed away last year and is one of reasons I'm trying to fix this engine and give back to his son--it's not for me…as I'm selling a lot of his train collection on his e-bay site…his son doesn't have a place big enuf for all of it and his wife is not a train buff  imagine that  anyway thanks again all  much appreciated and I may be back for more help if you guys don't mind   Steve