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I just received a 2360 that I bought on the 'Bay. Real good shape, but I always take my "new" engines apart, rewire, clean, tune, lube etc. I've never worked on a PW GG and on opening the shell, I found it to be a real odd duck. Strange battery bracket (still haven't quite figured that out yet) and all sorts of things I've never seen before fell out when I took screws out (speed nuts, washers etc). I've pretty much figured out where those parts go now but I've got two questions about some things I'm not sure about. 

 

First of all, the e-unit and relay are connected together by a bracket that puts the relay upside down. Never saw one of those before. There's a spring to return the armature to it's open position since gravity won't do it in that orientation. It was hanging up on me and I assumed it was magnetized. Did the "Scotch tape trick" and that solved it But a paper insulator fell off it when I was dismantling. Greenberg shows it UNDER the bracket. That doesn't make sense to me. I think it goes right below the relay so it isolates it from ground. Is that correct?

 

Secondly......I found a brass lock washer around the motor pivots......between the frame and truck. Greenberg doesn't show that either. Is that an add-on by a previous owner and should I leave it there?

 

I ordered washers and springs for the pony trucks (anticipating that I might have derail problems going over my switches). That didn't happen (at least in my initial tests), but I may put them in anyway.

 

-Roger

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Hi Sal,

I've actually found a number of errors in Greenberg for various engines. I just don't believe that the insulator paper should go below the bracket. Doesn't make sense.

 

I will be sending the shell to Len Caparelli for repaint, so yes......I am going to be improving this bad boy quite a bit.

 

Have you ever seen lock washers under the motors?

 

Roger

Here's my reasoning for thinking that the insulating paper goes under the relay. If you look at page 2 on the Olson site or Greenberg, it shows the paper under the bracket. What would be the point of that?  The relay on top would be in contact with the bracket which is grounded to the frame. Mounted above the bracket it isolates it. From what I can see, mounted below, it serves no purpose.

 

Roger

Joe,

Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I'll probably take some pics later in the process..it's all apart right now. The only modification I can see, is the presence of lock washers under the motor. Everything else I mentioned was unseen parts (like the paper insulator) falling out before I could see that it was even there or where it came from.

 

Roger

Originally Posted by ROGER1:

Hi Sal,

I've actually found a number of errors in Greenberg for various engines. I just don't believe that the insulator paper should go below the bracket. Doesn't make sense.

 

I will be sending the shell to Len Caparelli for repaint, so yes......I am going to be improving this bad boy quite a bit.

 

Have you ever seen lock washers under the motors?

 

Roger

 

It's been about a year since I've taken one apart so can't exactly remember, but lock washer doesn't ring a bell. To me it doesn't seem like it'd work well as it seems it would impede swiveling of the motor. For what it's worth, one of my GG1s was known to be NIB/never used (inherited) and it matched Greenberg's perfectly (at least for the dual motor GG1).

 

Interesting. Len is working on one of my 2340s at this very moment (total loss due to water damage) and when I get that back I'm to send him a second that had a lot of battery damage.

 

 

 

 

 

Last edited by SAL9000

Hi Roger, I did exactly as you did. I found a 2360 on the bay and proceeded to do a total tear down. I found the same set up with star washers between the frame and trucks. After trial error I decided to leave them in place. It seemed like the wheels were rubbing on the frame without them and by the looks of it they had been there for a very long time.It must have been a fix that was done back in the day.As for the paper on the relay I don't remember seeing that.

Well, I've got some interesting news. I Facetimed with Jeff Kane earlier tonight, so he could open his 2360 while I had mine open. Lo and behold.......his engine had the lock washers in there as well. So.....it was either an omission on the part of the Greenberg diagrams or perhaps since both the 2340 and 2360 are referred to the same diagrams, maybe the washers were added to the later 2360s. In any case, they would not impede the swiveling of the motor as the motor is attached to the truck and the truck swivels with it. And.....it might act as a ground spring.

 

Also, Jeff's engine had the insulating paper UNDER the relay bracket (unlike the diagram that shows it over it). That diagram just didn't make sense to me. So.....that appears to be a mistake on the diagram. 

 

Now, if I can get that crazy horn to work, I'll be in business.

 

Roger

An update on my "new" GG-1. I just finished working on it. It runs terrific now. Fast, powerful and smooth. Took all afternoon today to get the silly horn to work (as usual). Working now, every time. I had to go to plan B on this one.....the last resort "take it apart" solution. Fixed it. I left the star washers in there and it tracks great. In fact, I had anticipated having trouble with the pony trucks derailing over my switches (a somewhat common problem with these, apparently). I read about the "fix" for that on the Forum here.  Two composite washers and a spring mounted on the "hook" of the pony trucks. I ordered that stuff in advance of my engine arriving. When I tested it out of the box, I had no derailing, but installed those parts anyway and it tracks like a champ now through the switches with no "wander" of the pilots. Nice

 

My original plan was to have Len Caparelli repaint the shell (he currently has my 2345 shells). But I'm getting a bit leary of "turnaround time" and I think I'll wait to see how long my F3 shells take (as opposed to a quoted time). If anyone reading this post has had experience with them repainting shells, info about the actual turnaround time would be helpful. Thanks!

 

Roger

Bill,

When I get a chance later, I'll take a pony off and photograph it. Works great in stabilizing  the wheels. In fact, the last thing I did with it last night was try to run it through a pair of my back to back, serpentine 027 switch pairs. Blew through like they weren't there. Smooth. And a bonus for me.......I use PW #91 breakers on my layout. The tiniest short will trip them. I had problems with my switches when I first installed them. Any engine that had slightly wobbly wheels  would trip them going over some of the switches. Wheels tapping a frog or a roller brushing a side rail. No problem with this one.

 

Roger

Here's a photo of the washer arrangement on a pony truck. The inside diameter of the washers is too small to fit on the "hook", so you have to enlarge the holes. I used a Dremel cutting bit and it took about a minute. One washer over the truck, then the spring, then the other washer. Mount on the frame and you're good to go.

 

Roger

IMG_0017

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shoal creek railroad posted:

Hi Roger, I did exactly as you did. I found a 2360 on the bay and proceeded to do a total tear down. I found the same set up with star washers between the frame and trucks. After trial error I decided to leave them in place. It seemed like the wheels were rubbing on the frame without them and by the looks of it they had been there for a very long time.It must have been a fix that was done back in the day.As for the paper on the relay I don't remember seeing that.

Got a wheel to frame rubbing problem on a 2340 GG1 I bought a few weeks ago. can you send a picture of the washers between the frame and truck and do they keep the motor worm gear from meshing with the truck drive gear properly. Thanks!

ROGER1 posted:

I just received a 2360 that I bought on the 'Bay. Real good shape, but I always take my "new" engines apart, rewire, clean, tune, lube etc. I've never worked on a PW GG and on opening the shell, I found it to be a real odd duck. Strange battery bracket (still haven't quite figured that out yet) and all sorts of things I've never seen before fell out when I took screws out (speed nuts, washers etc). I've pretty much figured out where those parts go now but I've got two questions about some things I'm not sure about. 

 

First of all, the e-unit and relay are connected together by a bracket that puts the relay upside down. Never saw one of those before. There's a spring to return the armature to it's open position since gravity won't do it in that orientation. It was hanging up on me and I assumed it was magnetized. Did the "Scotch tape trick" and that solved it But a paper insulator fell off it when I was dismantling. Greenberg shows it UNDER the bracket. That doesn't make sense to me. I think it goes right below the relay so it isolates it from ground. Is that correct?

 

Secondly......I found a brass lock washer around the motor pivots......between the frame and truck. Greenberg doesn't show that either. Is that an add-on by a previous owner and should I leave it there?

 

I ordered washers and springs for the pony trucks (anticipating that I might have derail problems going over my switches). That didn't happen (at least in my initial tests), but I may put them in anyway.

 

-Roger

Bought one recently myself and the engine kept stalling with overheated motors. Finally noticed the truck wheels are contacting the bottom of the frame. Bought several of these nylon washers at the local Ace hardware store, cut the sides off so they fit at the bottom of the motor housing and installed them one at a time until there was a little clearance between the truck wheels and frame. Ran the engine on my test tack and the grinding noise is gone and it runs smoothly now.

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