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Hi, I'm getting set to build a 027 layout using used Lionel 027 track. Track is clean & no rust. However the ends have spread as expected & some pins are loose.
I don't want new track as I want an aged look.
I want to get some track pliers that work perfectly with 027. There are lots of pairs on Ebay, but which really works best for 027? I don't care about O at this time, just 027.
Lionel service manual says ST384 track pliers are for both 027 & O. How can that be since rail head diameter is so much larger on O?
Has anybody bought & used any of the track pliers shown on Ebay & can for sure say "get these for 027, they work perfect"?
Thanks.
Very best, Don Johnson
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I have bought 2 pair off eBay. One pair (first pair bought) were described as good for both did not work on my 027 track. The other pair that was specifically listed as 027 work great. These are heavy electrical pliers that have been machined for the 027 track.

I use these to crimp new pins into track as well as tighten and form the open ends of the rails. In fact once my track is assembled I take the pliers and center over the track joint and crimp. This provides a very tight fitting connection. As I said they were bought on eBay but were described as being for 027 track.
quote:
Lionel service manual says ST384 track pliers are for both 027 & O. How can that be since rail head diameter is so much larger on O?


When Lionel first introduced track pliers, they made seperate pairs for "O" and "027", numbered ST-342 and ST-384. Several years later they dropped the seperate pairs and went to a single pair, ST-384.

I purchased a cheap pair of reproduction pliers from Stan Orr many years ago. In order to get them to work nicely for "0" gauge, I had to modify the hole by enlarging it slightly. and recreating the little raised area that crimps the pin in place.

As far as I know, Lionel last offered track pliers somewhere around 1992-1993, when they put together a tool package with Hobby Horse. Some of the tools, including the track pliers and wheel pullers were available seperately for quite a while.
I always used a good pair of needle nose pliers. Never failed me in 35+ years.

I use them to pull the pins out, by leveraging the pliers on the bottom of the rails. They allow me to reshape the rails and tighten them around the pins. Never had any problems using them.

Don't spend the money if you have a good set of needle nose pliers.

Just my thoughts.

Mike R
Thanks Strogey, That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks to the others as well. I've been using needle nose & wire cutters for years & I want better than that. I know from metal working it would take compression from all sides to actually reform the track exactly. Even track pliers can't do that, but at least they would help even out the track & reform/reround the railhead.
Thanks again.
Very best, Don Johnson
quote:
I know from metal working it would take compression from all sides to actually reform the track exactly. Even track pliers can't do that

your comment is exactly why I have never bought a pair of O27 track pliers. I, like some mentioned above, still use an old pair of needle nose.

I can't seem to resolve in my mind how just squeezing a track with a pin already inserted in it can compress the track enough to make the pin tight and secure.

What I usually do is to, using needle nose, compress the opening without a pin being in it, making the hole a bit too small. I then lightly tap the pin into the opening. This makes it about as tight as it can get.

I'd like to try a pair of pliers and see if they work as well as some mentioned here. I just am not going to buy a pair and be disappointed though, so I stick with my tried-and-true.

- walt
Needle nose work perfectly. Save your money. You can pinch the rail from the end just below the pin hole to reduce it's diameter. The further you slide the pliers onto the rail, the smaller the hole will be (so you can adjust for any track).

Plus you will also want to pinch the tab on the ties a little so they clamp the rails tighter. This keeps the rail from spreading once the pin is installed making for a very dependable joint.
quote:
Needle nose work perfectly. Save your money. You can pinch the rail from the end just below the pin hole to reduce it's diameter. The further you slide the pliers onto the rail, the smaller the hole will be (so you can adjust for any track).

Plus you will also want to pinch the tab on the ties a little so they clamp the rails tighter. This keeps the rail from spreading once the pin is installed making for a very dependable joint.

SB: that's exactly the method that I use. Your last comment about pinching the tab on the ties is an important one that I only recently learned.

- walt
Last edited by walt rapp
quote:
Originally posted by walt rapp:
What I usually do is to, using needle nose, compress the opening without a pin being in it, making the hole a bit too small. I then lightly tap the pin into the opening. This makes it about as tight as it can get.
I do the same thing, but I use the track pliers to squeeze them. Then I take the pin and tap it into the end with the side of the pliers, usually makes them nice and tight. Before inserting the pin, I dip it in some DeoxIT D5 to help conductivity.
Ok, I'm going to buy both 027 & O track pliers. Strogey posted a report that made good sense. I'll post a report. However, I would you believe us if I said they work better than needle nose?
Truth be told I'm quite looking forward to getting some.
Sure needle nose work fine. However, I've worked with various metal forming dies etc. I can say without question if no pin is in rail,and... if the pilers were the correct size it would reform the metal quite well. The stretched metal would be forced into the web & the foot would end up slightly lower. That wouldn't be an issue. If the pin is in place & the pliers work the metal under the pin just so, it would indeed put the pin in tension & be tight.
By the way, I have the hose clamp pliers one person mentioned. They don't work well at all. The jaw is too narrow where the groove is & the groove dips inward to hold the clamping ring tips of the hose clamp. At the same time the groove is too large for 027.
Very best, Don Johnson
Hi Charlie, I actually went by Harbor Frieght Sat. & bought a bunch of pliers. I found I could use the drill press & drill them. I made a few pairs of my liking. They work quite well. Remarkably well. I had to go though 30 pairs to get 4 good ones. Most have the "teeth" going at too much an angle & the drill will follow that. Also depending on where the teeth start, the smooth end is too close to the teeth & there is then not much plier to reach the rail web. I also go some needle nose pliers, again cheapos. My thought was to cut the ends well back & then drill them. This way no teeth to deal with. Size of hole is a little more complicated that it may seem as there is some spring back of the tin. I did on pair for O track drilling #29 hole. Worked quite well in resizing the rail. Very well indeed. However, I found with rail in place the hole needs to be a whisker smaller to tighten pin.
I put tracks together with various loosness of pins. Crimped in place, then pulled apart to see how tight. Compared this to track where I reformed end with track in hand. I could never get installed track as tight, but for sure tight enough & then some.
On the pair I made so far, you can take a really, really out of shape end, give it a squeeze & presto, nice new shape. Honest, that easy. The end of pliers are 1/2" wide, so it may take 2 grabs being pin goes in more than 1/2 deep if you know what I mean.
I'm still perfecting hole size & the gap I'm grinding into end of jaws to compensate for rail web.
However, as it is after giving the rail 2 squeezes per rail the section fits nearly as tight as new. No joke!
I've done several sections. Takes aprox. 6 seconds per track section. That fast!
Gotten busy this week. I expect to have them perfected over the next 2 weeks or less. I'll photo all, before & after, both 027 & O tracks.
Very best, Don Johnson
Have a question... Does anybody have any genuine Lionel track pliers? I would like to know the exact hole size in whatever genuine pair you have. Also how far from edge (or center) of hole the end of the jaws are. Please state the Lionel ST # on pliers also.
Maybe a good way to size hole is with a drill bit. If you don't have bit the exact size, what bit goes & no goes. I'd like to know to the thousandths if possible.
I don't want to know about aftermarket ones, just genuine. Close detailed photos would be really nice also. Your help is appreciated.
Very best, Don Johnson
I have restored more 027 tube track from the 50's than I wanna admit. I hated to blow out $25 to $35 for track pliers, so I have always used a pair of needled nosed and done like others - I remove the pin, buff any rust off using the wire brush off a Dremel, cleaned out the hole using tiny grinder tools that have a small grinding nodes on the end, (always get a little puff of rust) put the pin back and crimped the rail with the pliers where the "T" forms under the pin and then crimp the pin with a slight compression of the tube with small wire cutters.
Hi Charles, It is my feeling after studying the photos, especially #2 that the pliers are sized to 027. If you use 027 size pliers on O rail it will egg shape the rail up/down ways. While the pin may fit tight, it will leave a bump at the top. Obvously, that's no good. It may well be Lionel made the hole small on purpose?? So they could use on 027. That's exactly why I wanted the exact hole size. I will restate how well track pliers work. You will never use needle nose again if you have the proper size pliers.
Now the other part is how far the hole is from end. On 027 on the center rail the crimp/insulator gets in the way so the hole must be correct distance from end.
I got the cheapies from Olsen's as well. As John's pair the hole was way too far from the end so they cannot be used at all. John & I have grinders, so we can fix, but what about the poor soul that gets the pilers & find they won't work. They just loose & give pliers a bad name.
I've now resized several sections of track & there is no distortion or wear on the pliers or the last tooth next to the hole bending back. These pliers cost 2.99 & are what most of the sellers make their's from from the photos.
Speaking of the photos, the ones from Olsen's in the photo would work just perfectly. They are machined correctly. However the ones sent are not good at all, as I said the hole is too far back. A good 3/16" too far back. Plus the pair sent was not the same style as pictured. Bad!! They should email me & ask if I still want them if different at least. Actually they should repost correct photo.
I contacted Olsen's several days ago. Still no reply. I'd avoid those if you can't get the end ground down if needed. The hole dia. seems ok. The odd thing is, these things are not complicated. I don't get it. Why don't they just make a jig & drill them?? Ok, acutally any hardened pliers would need an end cutting carbide end mill to drill. On these that's not needed.
Very best, Don Johnson
To: questions@ehobbytools.com
Your website description reads for O27 & OGauge track. If you use O27 size pliers on O rail, it will egg shape the rail up/down. I'm trying to find the right pliers. Are your pliers sized for OGauge tubular track?


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Questions Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 10:58 PM
Hello, our pliers are not reshapes, you would have the pin in the track and it crimps underneath the track to hold the pin in tighter. The pliers are only for tubular track, Thanks eHobbyTools
Hi Charles, There you have it... What kind of answer is that? My guess is the person that replied has never actually used track pliers in their life. If they would have had a direct answer to the type rail they were intended for.
I'll photo next week. That will show all you need/want to know. You will be surprised at how good mine work. And... they are sized for the track they are intended for. Will be late next week.
Very best, Don Johnson
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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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