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A while ago I posted some info about the same topic but probably in the wrong forum. The tinplate forum member SNCF231E suggested that I should move to the Hi-Rail forum, so I did now. Here are the latest scratch-built cars and more are coming soon in various painting schemes. Some of the cars will be weathered by the forum member BAR GP7 #63 who will post his photos later.

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Thanks for your prompt comments. The dimensions should be in proportion compared to regular boxcars. But I can stretch/squeeze the body if a rivet counter insists on accuracy, no problem. Conversion to 3RS with Atlas/Kadee couplers or conversion to 2-rail with Atlas/Kadee couplers and scale wheels is no technical challenge. More challenging would be to install a smoke unit inside the bodyshell, I have to try it some day.

El Classico posted:

How are you decorating them? I have some tinplate cars I designed to print on sheet metal, but am having trouble getting it done

IF you want to make only few tinplate cars then it is not worth considering any investment for an expensive thermal transfer printer. Also the offset printshops expect high volume orders. I am very satisfied with the inkjet painting quality on various adhesive papers. You can use HP Deskjet or Canon Bubblejet as painting device. IF you use your trains Outdoor then it is better to print on adhesive vinyl with UV protection, which is a material like the pizza ads on vehicles. IF you want a shiny surface to achieve a Visual effect like the vintage toy trains then the best choice would be glossy adhesive paper. I prefer plain cheap adhesive paper, good enough for my needs as you can see my results. Before applying the adhesive paper make sure that the tinplate surface is clinical clean (no greasy fingerprints, no swet, no leaked juice, no sugar, no lubrication oil, no waterdrops). While coating avoid air bubbles between tinplate surface and applied adhesive paper. A straight unfolded tinplate surface is better than an already folded sheetmetal with sharp edges. After applying the adhesive paper and before bending the sheetmetal you should Punch holes for screws and handrails. When you bend the coated sheetmetal in C or L or U shape the printed adhesive should be always visible on the Outside surface (except if you make the interior design of a passenger coach) . Try coating outer and inner surface.  Avoid Z shaped bending because the coated materialismi detouches from the sheetmetal due to surface tension. There is no perfect solution, you have to experiment and find you own way of working.

 

 

Last edited by BetaNuSigmaPhi

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