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Adding more details to the model.

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Next I'm going to black out the vents on the sides, the roof and the truck side frames. Then it will be ready for clear coat. After that I can work on the windows, lighting, and grab irons. My last projects on this will be interior detailing and possibly a railsounds board.

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coach joe posted:

Tom your WP&Y roster just keeps getting better all the time.  I believe you printed up a second shell, have you started on that loco yet or will you wait to finish the first before starting another build?

Coach Joe,

I have been working a little on the first engine. I'm waiting on more decals which I should have this week. I also need to track down some 6 wheel trucks for this shell and frame. Right now it just has 4 wheel trucks.

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I got the decals for the second engine.

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The engine in the right (#99) is the first printing with the issues and imperfections. The engine on the left (#100) is the second printing(including fixes tweaked from issues from the first printing).

I'm trying to find time to start working on the fuel and air tanks, not a lot of time during Christmas for that. I want to get these semi finished soon so I can run the double header with some cars.

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Thanks Tom.  Great work!  I have forwarded this thread to several friends, one named "Tom", an engineer who designs the digital sensors for autonomous vehicles used in dangerous manufacturing environments.  A model railroader, Tom had just asked me Saturday if I had seen any threads on the OGR Forum about 3 D Printing.  He was also explaining how the process worked from an engineering perspective.

He's going to love your creation!

Painted the side vents black the other night. I think it helps it look a little more like the prototype.

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I purchased some brass wire the other day so I can begin crafting some grab irons. I'm also ready to start working on the fuel and air tanks soon. I just have a lot of little things to do. I may even finish it some day.

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Last edited by Tom M
Tom M posted:

My wife suggested acetone, but that just seemed to push it around. Gunrunner John, what do you use to glue windows in place?

On CAST clear plastic windows the model car guys will use a polishing kit to remove CA glue. But on sheet plastic windows they are so thin can't really be polished and much faster easier to make new ones.  Use epoxy next time IMHO

Tom M posted:

My wife suggested acetone, but that just seemed to push it around. Gunrunner John, what do you use to glue windows in place?

I use Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker.  There is no clean way IMO to remove the haze, you'll have to replace the windows.  Trying to polish it out will be more trouble than simply removing and replacing them.

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Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

The first batch of the original printed steel replacements for the manual switches arrived and I installed one.  It works.  No let me say: IT WORKS!!!!

But I wonder if a longer shaft on these would work... because on mine the "switcher" has a kind of stand -- 2 prongs to either side of the rotate-able part which does the switching.  And these are intact... 

Perhaps a longer shaft on the printed replacement, and just pull out the old bit that rotates (but is broken) and shove the new part in...

?

Jim Waterman posted:
Tom M posted:

Windows added! Does anyone know how to get super glue residue off of clear plastic?

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Great rendition of this unique engine. Where did you get the prints done?  Is the shell one piece? Multiple? You do the 3D models? (wanna do more?)

Is this O narrow gauge? Great job.

Jim

Jim,

I found someone online that had 3d modeled this engine for n-scale. He sent me his file and I scaled it up to fit on an O-gauge postwar ALCO frame. It is one single print done by Shapeways a 3d printing company on the east coast. It is printed using a laser sintering process so it doesn't require building it up from the bottom like home 3d printers do. It opens up a whole lot of printing possibilities.

I do some 3d modeling but I am nowhere near as good.mceclip0

This is my White Pass rotary caboose i 3d modeled. She's ready for printing. I just have to pull the trigger.

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Jim Waterman posted:

Can you share how much Shapeways clipped you for the shell?

This was about a year ago. About $125 plus shipping. They sent me the print which had a few errors and breaks even though their algorithm said it was safe to print. I beefed up parts especially the shovel and they agreed to reprint it for free. The second print came out perfect. It required some sanding and some thick coats of paint, but I'm happy with how it turned out. The caboose I designed will be somewhere in the $60 range.

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