Set up the Hardwood Desolation Railroad tonight.
I didn't see the baby until it was too late.
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Looks great, and you have the only locomotive like that in captivity. I'd be careful of BigFoot however, they seem to like to wreck trains!
Adding more details to the model.
Next I'm going to black out the vents on the sides, the roof and the truck side frames. Then it will be ready for clear coat. After that I can work on the windows, lighting, and grab irons. My last projects on this will be interior detailing and possibly a railsounds board.
Super job Tom. You have a unique and handsome locomotive.
Tom your WP&Y roster just keeps getting better all the time. I believe you printed up a second shell, have you started on that loco yet or will you wait to finish the first before starting another build?
I really like this project Tom. You have a unique model, and it's getting better all the time.
coach joe posted:Tom your WP&Y roster just keeps getting better all the time. I believe you printed up a second shell, have you started on that loco yet or will you wait to finish the first before starting another build?
Coach Joe,
I have been working a little on the first engine. I'm waiting on more decals which I should have this week. I also need to track down some 6 wheel trucks for this shell and frame. Right now it just has 4 wheel trucks.
Tom....get the couplers????
AMCDave posted:Tom....get the couplers????
I'm so sorry Dave. Yes, I got them! Thank you so much! I'm brainstorming right now on how to mount them, but I think that they'll work great. Hopefully I can paint them this week and hit them with a clear coat.
Do a good test fit before painting. I open up the inside a little with a rat tale file to give more room for movement in curves. Good luck!
AMCDave posted:Do a good test fit before painting. I open up the inside a little with a rat tale file to give more room for movement in curves. Good luck!
Thanks for the tip Dave. I'll be sure to do some test runs before painting.
I am very impressed. Good to see fresh items like yours.
gunrunnerjohn posted:I really like this project Tom. You have a unique model, and it's getting better all the time.
Thanks John! I appreciate all the compliments. Your projects and products are an inspiration to me in my modeling and kitbashing.
Well, you've one-upped me with this one Tom, what a cool project and a unique set of engines!
I got the decals for the second engine.
The engine in the right (#99) is the first printing with the issues and imperfections. The engine on the left (#100) is the second printing(including fixes tweaked from issues from the first printing).
I'm trying to find time to start working on the fuel and air tanks, not a lot of time during Christmas for that. I want to get these semi finished soon so I can run the double header with some cars.
Thanks Tom. Great work! I have forwarded this thread to several friends, one named "Tom", an engineer who designs the digital sensors for autonomous vehicles used in dangerous manufacturing environments. A model railroader, Tom had just asked me Saturday if I had seen any threads on the OGR Forum about 3 D Printing. He was also explaining how the process worked from an engineering perspective.
He's going to love your creation!
Tom, that's as cool as it can be, looks like you were able to turn the first prototype into a nice looking unit as well.
Are we in a brave new world: home produced custom shells, custom paint schemes, custom sounds? and customized control systems ??
Painted the side vents black the other night. I think it helps it look a little more like the prototype.
I purchased some brass wire the other day so I can begin crafting some grab irons. I'm also ready to start working on the fuel and air tanks soon. I just have a lot of little things to do. I may even finish it some day.
It's too clean, needs a little weathering.
That is simply awesome!!! Very well done.
Thanks,
Ed
gunrunnerjohn posted:It's too clean, needs a little weathering.
I may have to, it might help to cover up some imperfections wrought by my impatience.
Tom M posted:Windows added! Does anyone know how to get super glue residue off of clear plastic?
Ain't gonna' happen! That's why I never glue windows in with CA adhesive! The vapors cloud clear plastic, it's a permanent thing.
The only way that I know to remove the film is to sand with μm sandpaper. This is a specialty paper that is used to polish optical fiber when terminating.
https://www.thorlabs.com/newgr...?objectgroup_id=1350
Perhaps you can use some sort of masking film/tape to protect the surfaces when gluing.
Jan
My wife suggested acetone, but that just seemed to push it around. Gunrunner John, what do you use to glue windows in place?
Tom M posted:My wife suggested acetone, but that just seemed to push it around. Gunrunner John, what do you use to glue windows in place?
On CAST clear plastic windows the model car guys will use a polishing kit to remove CA glue. But on sheet plastic windows they are so thin can't really be polished and much faster easier to make new ones. Use epoxy next time IMHO
Google says acetone as others have reported -- and something else... "nitromethane component". Some claim these work, some say they don't.
My reference:
The AC glue 'fog' is a etching of the plastic so no solvent will remove the fog....glue maybe....but the fogging is burned into the plastic.
This is also what I imagined... the plastic is permanently etched even with the glue removed. perhaps some folks polish that out as others have stated... but then post to the internet saying "it worked" without really going into all the details of making it work.
I have a Dremel polishing tool with compound. I'm going to give it a shot. If it doesn't work then I'll have to remove the window. And start over.
Tom M posted:My wife suggested acetone, but that just seemed to push it around. Gunrunner John, what do you use to glue windows in place?
I use Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker. There is no clean way IMO to remove the haze, you'll have to replace the windows. Trying to polish it out will be more trouble than simply removing and replacing them.
White glue, like Elmer's, or craft glue like Tacky Glue is what I have been using for a few years. I read someplace about guys building model planes using white glue to install the canopies and such.
The first batch of the original printed steel replacements for the manual switches arrived and I installed one. It works. No let me say: IT WORKS!!!!
But I wonder if a longer shaft on these would work... because on mine the "switcher" has a kind of stand -- 2 prongs to either side of the rotate-able part which does the switching. And these are intact...
Perhaps a longer shaft on the printed replacement, and just pull out the old bit that rotates (but is broken) and shove the new part in...
?
Jim Waterman posted:
Jim,
I found someone online that had 3d modeled this engine for n-scale. He sent me his file and I scaled it up to fit on an O-gauge postwar ALCO frame. It is one single print done by Shapeways a 3d printing company on the east coast. It is printed using a laser sintering process so it doesn't require building it up from the bottom like home 3d printers do. It opens up a whole lot of printing possibilities.
I do some 3d modeling but I am nowhere near as good.
This is my White Pass rotary caboose i 3d modeled. She's ready for printing. I just have to pull the trigger.
Can you share how much Shapeways clipped you for the shell?
Jim Waterman posted:Can you share how much Shapeways clipped you for the shell?
This was about a year ago. About $125 plus shipping. They sent me the print which had a few errors and breaks even though their algorithm said it was safe to print. I beefed up parts especially the shovel and they agreed to reprint it for free. The second print came out perfect. It required some sanding and some thick coats of paint, but I'm happy with how it turned out. The caboose I designed will be somewhere in the $60 range.
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