610 610 612 restoration

Good job, Looks great.
Did you use a rattle can and if so what brand/color.
What color will you be making the inserts(doors/windows/number boards)?
Will you be using rubber stamp set-up for the name/number? and if so what color ink?

Quit changing your mind on what gauge your doing. It drives me crazy! LOL

Nice job Brian!   Looking forward to seeing them complete.

RonH posted:

Good job, Looks great.
Did you use a rattle can and if so what brand/color.
What color will you be making the inserts(doors/windows/number boards)?
Will you be using rubber stamp set-up for the name/number? and if so what color ink?

Rustoleum:

Satin Cinnamon-Body

Gloss Burgandy-Roof

Gloss Warm Yellow-windows/door inserts

The windows are drying and getting ready to be primed

SDIV Tim posted:

Quit changing your mind on what gauge your doing. It drives me crazy! LOL

My sole purpose in life is to drive you crazy.

Brian Liesberg posted:

SDIV Tim posted:

Quit changing your mind on what gauge your doing. It drives me crazy! LOL

My sole purpose in life is to drive you crazy.

Nice job--looks great!!

I was having a lot of trouble getting the paint not to fisheye on the inserts. They were spotless, had no paint, I was using gloves to handle them, great temp, decent humidity, and still fisheyes. Finally I got fed up with that %@$#, sprayed 3 coats of primer on them, cleaned them with alcohol, let them bake for 45 minutes, then applied the paint. it worked.

Still assembling them but here's the observation with the inserts installed.

Anyone know where to get good frosted plastic for the windows? I think it would look better than the clear plastic it had originally (I don't even know where to get clear plastic, I usually just cut up old boxes for it).

I have shown these 610 and 612 restorations before, but I think they are worth showing again. I made a Ryder Express with all my Grandsons family pictures in the cars windows. The coupler's were converted so my grandson could hook-up to his modern day engine. I used Dupli-color GM Blue & Krylon Burgundy to try to match the Polar Express colors. I bought the cars at the Amherst Railway Society,Springfield MA train show for $15.00. I also made a Diner out of a 610.

For the frosted plastic, go to any art store and ask for frosted Mylar it comes in big sheets.

I use plastic milk jugs for my window material. I like free.

Steve

nice job Brian!

Brian Liesberg posted:

RonH posted:

Good job, Looks great.
Did you use a rattle can and if so what brand/color.
What color will you be making the inserts(doors/windows/number boards)?
Will you be using rubber stamp set-up for the name/number? and if so what color ink?

Rustoleum:

Satin Cinnamon-Body

Gloss Burgandy-Roof

Gloss Warm Yellow-windows/door inserts

The windows are drying and getting ready to be primer

=====================
I like the Rustoleum Cinnamon, used it on a 245 with a burgundy frame. Cleared coated the cinnomen because it was satin. 

Finally got them finished & re-assembled.

I found the window material at the local Michaels in the scrapbooking section. The lighting hasn't been wired up yet and the observation car is missing 1 air tank. Later on down the line I'll do the stamping & add shiny new couplers, but I think they're more than presentable for to-morrow!

Nice paint work and a nice looking train. 

Brian Liesberg posted:

Anyone know where to get good frosted plastic for the windows? I think it would look better than the clear plastic it had originally (I don't even know where to get clear plastic, I usually just cut up old boxes for it).

 

 

Brian,  I restore Flying Yankees and I purchase sheets of heavy, flexible clear plastic (I think they are used for overhead projectors) and sand them lightly with my orbital sander and get good results.

Jim

I did the same, but a new scotch brite or sandpaper works fine.

Just a thought for future window plastic considerations...

I prefer thin clear polycarbonate (rather than styrene, butyrate, polyester, etc.).  Midwest Products....the folks that bring you cork roadbed...sell clear polycarbonate sheet.   Walthers Part # 472-70601, 2 sheets of 0.040" for about $17....or less.

Reason: Polycarbonate is more scratch-resistant  than the softer, more common, less expensive plastics.  Also, I like the thickness (It is also available, same source, in 0.060" and 0.080" sheets) for providing wrinkle-free appearance.

There are lots of techniques for giving a 'frosted' appearance to clear plastic sheet.  Spraying one side (inside surface, as mounted in the car or building) with Dullcote or similar clear matte spray works for me. 

I haven't done any tinplate cars, but I use polycarbonate for replacing the window strips on my extruded aluminum cars (Williams, Lionel, et al).  I leave mine clear, since I also add seats, partitions, two-legged revenue, etc.  It's held up extremely well, IMHO, of course.

FWIW, always...

KD

Thanks for the info on the windows guys.

and it runs well,  found you Gomez..

Gene! Great idea using family photos in the windows.

brian,

you left your 100 year old engine,  its on the table

riki posted:

brian,

you left your 100 year old engine,  its on the table

I thought I forgot something, just have someone bring it to me at the next meet.

Brian Liesberg posted:

Finally got them finished & re-assembled.

I found the window material at the local Michaels in the scrapbooking section. The lighting hasn't been wired up yet and the observation car is missing 1 air tank. Later on down the line I'll do the stamping & add shiny new couplers, but I think they're more than presentable for to-morrow!

 

How about a picture of that floor standing console radio in the background, please? I love those things.

a second on the radio!

Steamer posted:

a second on the radio!

I do a lot of restorations outside trains, radios, fans and gramophones are among my favorites.

beautiful Brian!