ARGH! I give up...

The only way that my teem of 3 helper "track layers" was able to even come close to bending that stuff was to solder 4 pieces of the stuff together, then FORCE the whole long piece into the desired curve. Cut off any excess as required.

I also read on the forum, some years ago, that one individual removed all three rails from the Atlas Flex sections, bent each individual rail with a rail bender (wherever he got THAT), then reinserted the rails back into the tie strips.

And the solder held? My luck I am going to have to braze it or tack it.... What min radii did you bend too?

The way I did it was to first draw the curve directly on the layout, then I drove a nail into each end of the curve where the outside rail of the track would be.  I then inserted each end of the track into my nail "holders".  Finally I used the pencil line I drew and lined up the track to the curve keeping it in place by screwing it down as I went along the line.  Worked like a charm and all I had to do is cut off the two inside rails to match the next section of track.  By the way, I did this only in areas that I could not use pre-curved sections!!

Alan

That is because it is trying to go back to its original shape in the plastic ties that supports the brass. I believe the ties do not want it to stay in a curved state because the plastic form is pulling it back because it is inter connected were as other Flex track is not like gargraves. Even gargraves will not bend at the ends unless you put some type of radiused form to bend each individule rail one at a time.

I remember the gentleman with the rail bender tool being at York. Thought he advertised in OGR at one time.

Clem

John, do a Forum Advance Search, with "atlas" in words and "rail bender" in phrase.  Many good threads on this subject.  

For anything less than O96 you apparently need a rail bender. The suggested one is "Norms rail bender" from Norms Model Supply with code 215 rollers. Very hard to find.  You may need to email some of the people to see if they are done with theirs.

Dan

Guys....while I am very sure a rail bender would make the job easier, the method I described above worked very well...try it, you may like it!...

Alan

Sorry to hear that you had so much of a problem.  I keep reading about people who do.  I didn't.  

 I have about 300 feet of Atlas track, the vast majority, about 250 feet of it is flextrack. This is something I learned decades ago with N and HO - flextrack is just so much easier to install: since its flexible I can fit it to curves and straights and bend/twist it just to the shape I want, and I can blend curves: no alternating 72 and 84 inch curve sections to get 79 inch diameter, etc.  

I installed half circles has tight as 42 inches, and I have one section that is ninety degrees at 36 inch.  Not sure I have any secret, and i'ts not easy, but its not hard, either, just takes good procedure.  

The only thing I seem to do differently is I screw down the track at every hole, and sometimes drill additional ones.  What I do is:

a) I install one end of the flextrack where I want it, and screw down the first two or three screws from that end in place.

b) I then bend the next couple of inches, holding the track a foot of so out for leverage, being gentle, and screw it in place, and work my way along the track, bending and screwing it down.  

c) when I get about a little more than two-thirds way along, I bend the piece gently the eventual shape, mark where I have to cut the rails to even them up (If it curves I have to cut two of them to keep the junction end flush).  I use a cutting wheel tool to do that.  

d) I install clips and attach the next piece, usually also flextrack.  Now, I always solder all three clips at every junction on both sides of the junction, well.  I started this for electrical reasons but it is a good structural reason.  

e) So, with the end of the first piece still not completely bent into shape - i.e, at this point it is 2/3 installed and screwed down but the remaining 1/3 is straight and not screwed down, I now install the next piece of flextrack to it and solder it, too.

f) I then continue bending and screwing it down a few inches and screws at a time, right through the junction into the next piece, and solder on another piece when it is 2/3 installed. 

That is the basic method I have used.

I managed to get two pieces of Atlas flex down on my layout by connecting the flex

at one end and screwing it down with two screws and slowly bending it to the curve

that i needed screwing it down at every hole in the cross ties.

I tried to find a railbender, but after a dozen calls to Norm's and several attempts to

find one on the forum here, left me frustrated and mad. I believe the railbender is

the only way to bend this track properly but I think it takes an act of GOD to get one.

Norm would not get back to me and I was begging to spend money and Atlas was no

help. I talked to one person that had one here on the forum and offered to buy his

when he was finished but I have not herd from him.

You do what you have to and make it work and make sure you keep the rails tight at

the end you start with.

Got it. Thanks Dan. Sounds like these are not made anymore?

You would think Atlas would sell this tool or one like it, to promote their track products?

I used the solder method with HO track, worked great until the expansion and contraction set in...Then pop! The track would distort right up into the air....I have a large Weller gun, I will give it a run.

If not, I am going to only use it for straight runs... and go back to Gargraves flex track for the curves.

Flip the section of track upside down.  Then using a pair of pliers that will reach down between the ties with the 2 sharp cutting blades, cut the piece of web that connects the ties. Try and remove as much of that connecting web as possible between each tie. I know it's tedious, but then you will be relived to find that the track will conform to curves much, much easier.  Try it with one section first.

To further add to this subject...Atlas flex track has the ties connected underneath at alternate sides of the ties; that is, left, right, left, right.  This makes bending the track very difficult and annoying.  The right way to connect the ties would be at the middle of the ties.  I believe the P48 crowd has tie strips where the ties are connected underneath in the middle.

Steve

Just a thought here, and my memory isn't what it used to be, but I think forum member Tom Tee or maybe it was Dave or Ted Hikel have previously posted about these benders or similar ones. Perhaps they could be of assistance in locating one?

I've never had any problems with flextrack installation.  It works well for me.

As to the expansion with it all soldered, I have thought about this, but it has not been a problem, however:

a) keep in mind the layout room is temperature-controlled between about 65 and 80 degrees extremes, so there is not much expansion.  

b) still, my largest loop, 190 feet, would expand over that 15 degree range by 190 feet x 12 inches/foot x 9x10^6 coefficient x 15 degrees = .34 inch.  

c) for that reason, I leave six straight sections located every 30 feet of so very slightly bowed, with the central 33 inches or so not screwed down.  As the track loop contracted, these sections can bow just a bit more of less, or more it it expands, by up to .06 inches each, to accommodate the expansion and contraction.  

d) I've never bothered to look to see if they even move, it just hasn't been an issue - maybe because i did this, or maybe because its not an issue period. 

Another bender you might try is Llagas Creek for Code 215 rail, but You'd have to disassemble the track to use it since it's a single rail bender. The Norm's bender does all three at once with the rail in the ties. Norm's Hobby Supply site (http://www.choochoostuff.com) is down.

I really think the whole idea of flex track is that you should not need to use a rail bender. I'm not sure what people who have problems are doing differently.  One thing I do whenever I flex or bend it is try to grab as many of the ties as possible with my my hands, so as to distribute pressure evenly over as wide an area as possible.   

Thanks Lee and Hot Water for the input. I think what the point is though for a first time user this tool would be really helpful. might ever have me run back to the LHS and purchase more Atlas Flex track.

I will try the solder trick tonight and see how this works... Thanks again.

I was able to get the rail bender from Norm's, and it works like a charm. Like Matt mentioned, it does all three rails at once. Hopefully you can find it from an alternate source.

Andy