Assembly of OGR kit 942 Midtown Hotel

So Joe, what kind of blade are you using to get a smooth cut? (diameter and #teeth)

My table saw uses a 10 inch diameter blade. Attached will give you an idea though there are less expensive blades around - http://www.forrestblades.com/duraline-thin-rim/

Joe

Nice work so far!! 

Somewhat belatedly  - had more time to work on the hotel.

The hotel will have transparent windows so it was necessary to add floors. The top and bottom floors (roof panel for the second section) are 1/8 hardboard (masonite) to add rigidity to the structure. The issue was the two middle floors in each section. I knew that once I added the 1/4 inch corner braces it would be extremely difficult to add masonite floors so I bought some black colored 20 mil styrene which is easy to bend into place. I found I needed to add extra floor braces for the styrene (see below)

After cutting to size and painting the masonite I dry fitted everything. The pictures below show the results. Since there will be two buildings side by side I modified the front street level windows so there would be some difference. In hindsight I should have used a different street level front which would have changed the window design in addition to the front door. Next up is to figure out the lighting and still be able to insert the floors when everything is done.

Wow Joe those buildings look great! Thanks for the tutorial. You are a real modeling expert.

If anyone is looking for a great buildings for their layout I can attest to the fact that Joe's work is amazing. I have several of his pieces and the finish work is amazing. I love the weathering detail you have applied to all my pieces.

Instead of getting into the lighting I decided to work on the fire escapes. This pair of buildings will be different in that the fire escapes will be in the back instead of on one side. Having has some past experience with fire escape kits from a few different manufacturers I was worried about the 'flimsy' nature of the fire escapes with respect to surviving shipment to a customer, so along with some modification, I am also trying to decide whether to attach the fire escapes to the finished building or ship them separately.

Each individual fire escape comes on three sprues.

The instructions that come with the kit are pretty good but did not mention where to cut the flooring from the sprue.

Looking at the pictures and using the railing as a guide it appeared the flooring had to be cut flush with the floor rails.

I used a pair of heavy duty sprue cutters due to the thickness of the sprues.

Laying out the railing one notices the long rail overlaps the edges of the two side rails so I glued the inner rail and the two side rails first then followed up with the long rail.

Next came the stairway. The important point here is the the notches at the end of the stairs face up. The individual steps are not not solid; instead they have three thin rails. If one squeezed the sides to hard the stairs will buckle. I reinforced the side with some 40 mil stock. An added advantage was the stock gave me a reference for placing the hand rails. The instructions said to place the top of the handrail 3/8 inch from the top side of the stairs. I got a little nervous doing this fearing the hand rail would interfere with placement of the stirs underneath the fire escape floor. I decide to use ½ inch. After building the first unit and mating it with the flooring it turns out the 3/8 inch is adequate.

I dry fitted the assembled fire escape to a wall and saw that the only glue points would be the two edges. There are angle brackets that come with the kit but past experience said they would be almost useless for joint stability.

I glued some Plastruct AFS-4 angle styrene to the edges to add more glue surface.

I then glued on the brackets and reinforced them with 20 mil flat stock.

Three fire escapes down and 7 more to go.

Joe

that fire escape kit you found looks great.

alan graziano

Great work! but not easy to build the stairs and platforms!!! on the other hand, they look fine!

I suppose these fire escape are the same as mine!

jpv in France

JPV69 - looks exactly the same.

Alan - I think OGR buys the fire escapes from Kober????

I had to put this project aside for a while.

I washed the buildings in warm water and detergent, let them dry overnight then sprayed with Krylon Crystal Clear Satin. After that dried I sprayed Rusto-elumn  Flat Red Primer

Next up is mortar

The fire escape we provide with this kit is the Korber fire escape.  It's a really well done fire escape!

jpv69 posted:

Great work! but not easy to build the stairs and platforms!!! on the other hand, they look fine!

I suppose these fire escape are the same as mine!

jpv in France

 

JP - they look exactly the same. As Rich mentions the fire escapes come from Korber Models. They also look a lot like Tichy fire escapes which I buy on occasion.

Joe

Joe,

Mine are from TICHY.

jp

So for some reading this thread may get itchy to buy the good looking Tichy fire escapes.... Unless they think the price is to Richy for their wallet!

I have been applying mortar to the building sections. Over the years i have tried several different processes for applying mortar and finally standardized on Roberts Brick Mortar. Over the last year or so I have experimented with different methods of applying and removing the mortar from the surface of the bricks. For those not familiar with Roberts Brick Mortar the instructions state that after mixing the jar the mortar can be wiped or brushed on. After it dries (it can be left on 1 hour, 1 day or 1 week) to a dull white color the mortar on the bricks can be removed with a damp cloth.

The process I now use consists of: (I use this procedure for one side at a time keeping that side face up)

 - Brush on the mortar with a soft bristle brush

 - Let it dry at least overnight

 - Wipe the dried mortar off the brick with a stiff bristle brush

 - Blow off the powder with air

 - Use cosmetic wedges which I rub over a damp sponge to further remove mortar (I have found this step may not even be necessary).

Below is a picture showing from left to right the brick mortar brushed on and allowed to dry, then the results of brushing off the mortar with the stiff bristle brush, followed by using dampened cosmetic wedges to clean the brick some more.

Below is a close up of the dried mortar and the results of brushing the mortar off

Below is a side by side comparison of a wall that has been brushed and one that was brushed then followed by wiping with damp cosmetic wedges. I think using the wet wedges actually removed mortar from some mortar lines.

Below are pictures of the wedges and the stiff bristle brush I used.

I like this approach because using the brush I can get into corners and crevices I once had a lot of trouble trying to clean.

Next up is some weathering with India ink / alcohol.

Joe

Joe,

It looks like your method works pretty well.

Alan Graziano

Method and tools are amazing but the result is perfect! 

jpv in France

Wonderful tutorial; THANK YOU for sharing!!!

The weathering with India ink and Alcohol is complete. I forgot to take in process pictures but have the end result below. I traditionally use India and DI water but always had to contend with mortar smearing across the brick face and the subsequent cleanup. This time I tried India ink and alcohol hoping to eliminate the smearing. That did not happen but the smearing was a lot less than that with water. Light clean up with a damp cosmetic sponge was all that was needed.

I need to contact the customer about more weathering before I proceed. If so the next step is a medium gray powder I bought from a retail store no longer in business. This powder was the concoction of the owner of the store. Unlike other powders it has a dulling effect rather than a streaking effect though if laid on heavy it acts like other weathering powders.

Joe

It turns out I did have pictures of the results of the India ink wash and subsequent clean up. See below

Below are pictures showing the gray dusting powder I used. Once it is gone there is no more.............

I started the painting. For big surfaces I tend to go with spraying. I have tried brushing on paint on the doors in the past and have been told it is not my expertise.......

I will be brush painting the windows though. I read somewhere (can't remember where) that if one has a building with windows painting the windows with a light color make they look bigger, painting them with a dark color makes them look smaller. A side by side picture was shown - the difference is dramatic.

Below is a picture of the front and back of the hotel. I started with a black undercoat then followed up with a dark gray over spray. I tried to keep some the black showing to simulate a weathered front.

Joe

Looking better and better with each post....keep 'em  coming!!!!

I have started hand painting the windows and pop-outs. I tend to use the inexpensive acrylic paints like folk Art. They will work with Krylon , Rustoeleumn and Testors under coats. Painting is usually a two step process. Even with a base coat the first coat will not cover the surface. I need to let this coat dry before adding the second coat. One wall down 15 more to go.............

After the painting is done I will be working on the inside.

Joe,

You are doing a fine job on that building.

Alan Graziano

Very impressive and well done work! 

jpv in France

Joe,very nice build.Did you make the modified throat plate for your table saw?Nick

Nick:

If you mean the blue plate - I bought blanks from my local woodworking shop. They came already shaped for my table saw. These are laminated particle board. I also have some yellow plastic plates but I like the heft of the blue plates.

Joe

To All:

Thanks for the comments and support.

Joe

It has been a while. I have just completed hand painting the windows and pop-outs. I did not realize how long it would take. 16 walls times 1 hour each wall times 2 coats each wall - 32 hours total. I need to figure out how to either tape the brick or tape the windows so I can spray paint the next time.

I can spray the entire building the window color then tape the windows and spray the brick color or spray the brick color and tape the brick - any experience with this?

I need to paint the fire escapes then add interior lights. Then this project should be complete.

Joe

The second shot gives a good idea of your work; it's perfect for me!

jpv in France

Thank you

Joe

Getting near the end of this build. I have been installing lights and working on the ground level interior.

I am using Model Power's lights. I took the light apart, sanded the top of the base flat and glued on Plastruct lamp shade. Then I painted the assembly flat black. Light fixtures are going to be glued onto the ceilings of each floor.  I also glued some channel onto the ceilings and the walls to hide the lamp wires.

I had read an article that described a 'shadow box' approach to interior design. Basically a picture of a suitable interior is 'wrapped' around the inside of a box to give a more three dimensional look to the interior. It seems to be working out ok. I still need to play around with it some more.

Joe

Joe, your craftsmanship is recognized by your peers and your posts are among the best here.

For me, I'd like to compliment you on your willingness to SHARE your techniques; interested members can surely benefit from the content and photos you generously describe and show--sadly, IMHO, some members, who are "in the business" of charging for their work, choose not to do so.  You are "in the business" so to speak, yet you frequently share your expertise with everyone here.

Joe again you have done a wonderful job and as Carl said you craftsmanship is well recognized by you peers. Keep of the good work.

This "aroud the walls" picture is a great idea! 

jpv in France

Carl, Dan, jpv:

Thank you for your kind comments. I will most definitely keep posting stuff like this.  I have two custom buildings in the works plus for my layout I am working on an idea for adding/replacing the standard Lionel 12V bulbs with 18V bulbs for various track bumpers. The new bulbs will have leads soldered to track joiners (Atlas O in my case) so they can be powered with track voltage but not burn out as fast as a 12V bulb.

Another member who posts stuff like this and one I have learned a lot from is Alan Graziano. I never mentioned this but Alan is to be commended for keeping the Sunday Scenic Showcase alive and well.

Joe

Hi Joe • Very cool.........

Looking great, I also have built a lot of these kits.  Mostly for flat structures as part of a back drop.

Gary

Very nice Joe. You put a lot into this one.

Alan Graziano

Alan / Gary - thank you. Gary,  I watch your videos on Youtube

The buildings are basically done. I installed the window treatment and lights and only need wire up one more harness. The pictures below show the lighting for one structure. The 'mistake' I made was to use card stock for the window treatments so other than the ground floor lobby the amount of light getting through is low. fortunately the customer likes this. The card stock I use s about the same thickness as the standard OGR window treatments.

I glued the top section to the bottom which may or may not be a smart thing to do for shipping. We will see.

The fire escapes will go on the back instead of the side but they will not be attached for shipping - learned that lesson the hard way.

This pretty much closes out this post. I hope you all enjoyed the postings.

Joe

Figured I would make one more posting mostly because of a small issue I came across while taking pictures to show my customer where the fire escapes go. As you can see because the fire escapes are being placed on the back of the building instead of the side the ground level stairway interferes with the garage door. To get around this I built up a ladder 'network' which I think looks better. I am sending both to the customer.