Skip to main content

To D&H65, Matt Kirsch, Jim Berger, NH Joe, rtr12, bluelinec4, and others:

Thanks so much, guys, for your helpful responses.  OK, of 7 responses, 6 really like Atlas, one says the connectivity is indeed terrible on their subway system!  Yes, my track will be totally screwed down to Homasote on top of half- or three-quarter ply.

I heard it is expensive, so any advice on discounts?  Oh, as you can't order directly from Atlas, how would I go about getting just a full 0-27 sectional circle, as some stores have said they can only get a case delivered?  And what about this:  Lionel tubular 0-27 is indeed 27 inches from the OUTSIDE of the ties.  But I hear that Atlas 0-27 is actually 30-1/2, as the radius is measured from the CENTER of the track, not from the outside.  True?

I liked Ingeniero NO 1 advice from five years ago about actually screwing feeder wires to the rails (thanks rtr12).  A friend has said that it's hard to solder to the rails because they are coated in some way, and first you have to grind off the coating with a Dremel.  Have people found this?

For this upper level dog bone, it's just a long loop with no switches, so I think I'll be avoiding the Atlas vs. Ross switch discussion.

Any other thoughts, and thanks a lot again.

ron

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

i dont feel its expensive for what you get. this was never a poor mans hobby.  ..theres alot of atlas track on ebay,you just have to watch for it.. i dont know how they measure 027 as everything i have is 099 and 108..iam going to say its center rail to center rail.. i solder the wires to the rail jointer clips,its easy to do,takes less heat than soldering to rails and no chance of melting the ties.-Jim

Atlas is measured center rail to center rail. personally I don't like it because of the connectivity problems. soldering jumpers or the connectore is the only reliable fix and Atlas track is a bear to solder. usually wind up melting the ties. do yourself a favor and go with Gargraves or Ross tin plate style track, you will be much happier a year from now.

Jim Berger posted:

i dont feel its expensive for what you get. this was never a poor mans hobby.  ..theres alot of atlas track on ebay,you just have to watch for it.. i dont know how they measure 027 as everything i have is 099 and 108..iam going to say its center rail to center rail.. i solder the wires to the rail jointer clips,its easy to do,takes less heat than soldering to rails and no chance of melting the ties.-Jim

Atlas' supply chain has been re-established and they are now receiving shipments of track. You should see rapid improvements in availability.  Its conductivity is very good since the rails are solid nickel silver.  Both Ingeniero No 1 and Jim Berger have suggested effective connection techniques.  I have had good availability and price from Chas Ro.  Mr. Muffin is also a well supplied Atlas dealer.  Pat B.

Last edited by lpb007

Gargraves was my first, reflexive choice until I was laughed out of the store when I said I wanted to bend it to 0-27.  That's how I came to Atlas sectional in 0-27.  So if not Atlas--because I'm getting a lot of conflicted advice on conductivity--who makes 0-27 (aside from Lionel tubular which won't do because after I turn the trains in 0-27, I want to broaden out curves into even 72)?

mytrains posted:

...personally I don't like it because of the connectivity problems. ... Atlas track is a bear to solder. usually wind up melting the ties. do yourself a favor and go with Gargraves or Ross tin plate style track, you will be much happier a year from now.

Lol, good one!  

I'll be the first to say (and have in other threads) that the GG system of pins going into holes theoretically creates a better electrical connection than the Atlas O system. Similarly, MTH having 2 serious spring loaded copper connection strips mashed against each also theoretically creates a better electrical connection.  But, I've laid 3 main lines so far in our very first project, each about 110' long using Atlas O and have had nothing but perfect electrical connectivity.  And like someone else said, I solder to the bottoms of the joiners not the track.  Only the black joiners are coated and it takes like 10 seconds with a simple utility knife to scrape off the coating down to shiny metal.  Easy as pie. 

Oh, and before buying either, we bought some of both systems to analyze before deciding.  Aesthetically, we preferred Atlas O, but that's subjective.  We found the solid rail of Atlas O was quieter and the connection points have less of a gap, so less constant wheel click-click-clicking over each and every connection point. Finally, we found Atlas track to be more rugged.   

Last edited by PJB
emrlaw posted:

I have used Atlas track for over 15 years. Never had problem with it.  Great connectivity, looks great, and easy to work with.

Although our layout is only 5 or 6 years old, track-work wise, the only electrical problems I have ever had with the Atlas product, has been with the turnouts. I've had to solder electrical jumper wires from dead spots on the turnout, to an adjacent good section, which only involves drilling a small hole through the ballast/layout to run the wire through, after soldering it to the dead frog or rail. 

mytrains posted:
 But, I've laid 3 main lines so far in our very first project, each about 110' long using Atlas O and have had nothing but perfect electrical connectivity.
 

I will be waiting for a new reply in a year

 

No need, I can reply now - we've been working at a snail's pace. First line was completed around 3 years ago. Second around 2.5 years ago.  Everything is perfect electrically.  And as I said, this is out first project so no expertise here. 

Last edited by PJB

On my previous layouts, I used Lionel traditional track as well as Gargraves and Ross....I liked all of them and had no electrical problems with the track.  On my current layout, I decided to try Atlas.  No electrical issues despite having 85 turnouts and over 1100 feet of track.  As I laid the track, I put no more than two 40" sections together and then installed a connector with a wire soldered to the bottom.  This effectively assured that every 40" section had a power drop going to it....works like a charm!  PJB's post above pretty much expresses my experiences....  AND I did the same thing Hotwater did to the switches.  Been almost 8 years now and no problems to report....

Alan

I've been running Atlas track for over 10 years without any structural or conductivity issues.  Well, other than some turnout dead spots.  I have found soldering  the track not too difficult.  I Dremel wire brush the spot, put flux on the track, pre-tin the wire and solder at high heat.  Rarely does this damage the plastic ties.

Alan

Since it was marketed, early 2000's the track joiners have been upgraded, at least once, and may be even a second time.  First issue is noticeable, there is no dimples/barbs on the flat bottom side of the joiner.  These connectors slipped on/off rather easily.   First upgrade added the back side dimple/barb.   A second upgrade may have increase spring tension to the point that the joiners are hard to install.  Dimple/barb plus increase spring tension was suppose to correct conductivity problems.   There were other problems related to switch continuity that have been address also.   

Note the (2) dimple/barbs on the bottom of this connector.  Gargraves left, Atlas right.

If the joiner does not have the dimple/barb or is loose/slides on easily, get new ones.  The track joiner has to be somewhat difficult to install to have good electrical continuity. 

Last edited by Mike CT

MikeMike:  Wait a minute, are you saying you use jumpers between every section of track?  Not just the dimpled connectors, but you actually solder (?) jumper wires linking the sections to ensure connectivity?  If I'm using sectional 0-27 curves, do you mean I should create jumpers between every section of track?  Wow. 

I don't mean power and ground leads that might go a few places on a loop to prevent voltage drop off, but actual jumpers?   Is this really necessary?  Makes it sound like the connectors are no use at all in conducting electricity in that case.  Sounds grim.  Plz explain more.

Thanks, ron

Alan, if sending your wiring instructions by email to Ron, please include me as well.  I've heard about your method and am very interested to try it.  I also have 2 main loops with 6 sidings and a peninsula with a reverse loop.  I'd like to know how to wire in and around switches, the use of blocks, where and when to insulate track sections, length of feeders, etc..

Thanks and appreciate your advice,

Mike Miller

thorpe50@verizon.net

302-449-2427       

 

 

When we switched over to Atlas flex for new track alignments, we crimped the Atlas rail joiners with pliers before installing them. This made them hard to install, but they remained tight. We've had a couple work loose over time due to the vibration of heavy traffic, and in those cases, we grind the top of the joiner and the rail web with a Dremel cut-off wheel and solder the connection.

I'd point two things out:

1- if you want maximum track interchangeability and are using Atlas O, soldering to the track itself creates some constraints.  You now have a potentially expensive piece of track with wires soldered to it.  Thinking about the situation where you want to move the power drop to a different location and different piece of track. Soldering to the track connectors eliminates such constraints.  

2- if you're planning to run DCS and want to try and follow wiring protocol for it, forget about the power drop every 10 feet.  Have said that, and despite having inquired on this forum and everyone including the so-called DCS experts, I've yet to see anyone ever explain how to strictly follow "one drop per block" DCS wiring protocol if you have any turnouts on your layout and want to wire them on all three legs (a typical practice) and not rip out their original wiring.   

Peter

Last edited by PJB

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×