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Switchers, the NW/SW is larger then I like. Docksides/Vulcans/Plymouths for 3-5 if they aren't too heavy. Adding to loco weight to guard against wheel slip might be a good idea. I've never needed to lighten a loco  

 

Road/switching combination duty, diesel, the RS1, but I don't have a clue how well they do on the turnouts.

 

 My bias is the "2037". Go figure. But, if you can find any version of this 6 driver unit with magnetraction, Prairie, St. Paul Pacific, Adriatic, etc. you've got a winner. I'm not 100% sure but I think the 2037 has the nicest rods, rails, etc but I think another has nicer, bright rimmed drivers? (I do like the alum stacked Ks a whole lot too).

I can pull 19 of my heaviest. With 18 or less on it, against any other, its still the fastest thing I own, and least likely to roll in a bend at warp speed. After adding a couple diodes(free ones from a coffee pot) it slowed its top end, made it smoke even better/sooner, and creeps out of bed in the morning more nicely too.

 

 With just a touch more size (& huge cab kickout) The C&O Berk jr is the absolute smoothest thing in MY* turnouts.(*each turnout can be unique! No way out but work on one of the two, engine, or turnout)

Creative cutting of the corner on the cover of the 0-27 switching coils can be used. Trimming off corner allows many string-line overhangs to fit without hitting. JB Weld the open corner shut, and shape/carve/file/sand to taste. It actually blends into "lionel black" excellently. I have a plastic scout tender you can't easily tell the repair till I show you its a whole front corner, from right of center looking at it, around the corner to near the rivet line, top to bottom! (Every internal screw boss too)(wood/metal homemade frame ). Anyhow I can run a tmcc e-44 rectifier without the dreaded "box bump" on those.

 Some semi-scale GG-1s will work, some need mods/mods on lead cars, others no hope.

One thing to keep in mind, on the NWs for sure, some have strictly O gauge rollers(longer arms) and they can fall off O-27s center rail in the tighter bends. Most 0-27 is a 4 digit number vs 3. Many can be replaced with the 0-27 version. Anything could be bashed/worked out roller wise for different handling characteristics in turnouts if you need to. A single tether from a tender/car roller to the loco does wonders. 

 

  

Originally Posted by Adriatic:

Switchers, the NW/SW is larger then I like. Docksides/Vulcans/Plymouths for 3-5 if they aren't too heavy. Adding to loco weight to guard against wheel slip might be a good idea. I've never needed to lighten a loco  

 

Vulcans can do better when pulling modern cars, Postwar cars are another story.  If that's what you run then oiling the axles on the cars will help a lot  Vulcans do pull better on flat top rail, such as Super O or Gargraves.  I guess that's because there is a larger contact patch area.  Adding a little weight could help too.  None of the postwar Vulcans had traction tires or magnatraction.

 

One thing to keep in mind, on the NWs for sure, some have strictly O gauge rollers(longer arms) and they can fall off O-27s center rail in the tighter bends. Most 0-27 is a 4 digit number vs 3. Many can be replaced with the 0-27 version. Anything could be bashed/worked out roller wise for different handling characteristics in turnouts if you need to. A single tether from a tender/car roller to the loco does wonders. 

 

My 623 NW-2 does well on O-27, maybe there were variations of which roller assembly was used during the course of production.  I haven't tried my 624 on O-27 yet.  As you say, the assembly can be changed out if it has problems.

 There is a decent array of small engines out there for a O-27 switching layout.  You certainly can do a lot in a small space.  For switching fun, build a Timesaver yard.  This was originally thought up quite a while ago and has been done in all modeling scales over the years.

Last edited by John23

Both of those locos were originally built with stamped sheet metal frames.  If yours have die cast frames with electro-couplers then the bodies were put on earlier chassis.

Check this site for pictures of almost all postwar Lionel production.  http://www.postwarlionel.com/

 

Nothing wrong with that, I put an Alaska switcher body on a 624 chassis, looks and runs much better.

Last edited by John23
I have the 675 and 2035 and they are really great pullers.  They are probably my favorite trains and they run great on o27.  I also second what was said earlier about the 2023.  I have two a units that I run connected through the same e unit and it is a great engine. (And all of them can be had for around 50 bucks)

I also have two 2026s.  One with rollers and one with sliding shoes.  The one with rollers plays well with traditional tubular and fastrack but the one with sliding shoes doesn't run on larger turns.  You may want to consider engines that run well on both track types because you may not always run on o27.

 Both frame/trucks I have match Johns links photo of the 610. The 633 should have a less detailed one. Tandem Associates shows the same info too. Its one of the nicer ones IMHO, with cast side frame on the trucks. You can see how these roller arms are longer in comparison to others if you look at the 610 photo. 

My 633 was a total junker in the beginning. Most of the grill was just gone, broken tab slot at the rear, chipped lens, etc.. Now it has a real metal grill frame, and metal screening too. Brass mounting tab holder. Plus a silhouette (the recent thread has a crappy photo), lights, front coupler, bell and/or horn(?which?both?), etc.)

 

Just re-read that John. I'll will check closer, later today. But, I think the side frame of the truck (not the motor) is cast on the 610. If they got that much deep detail in that thick of a stamped piece I'll be impressed. Well.. I guess if it was hot forge stamped maybe I wouldn't be so stunned. Id be stunned if you are wrong too. Jeez, I better avoid cops today. Anyhow..... I am listening if you know more

(I also still have a General set box in my closet with your name on it! You had a virus back then I think. New email in my profile) 

Okay, you are talking about the die cast Blomberg truck frames.  What I was talking about was the entire underframe or chassis.  The early NW-2s had a heavy diecast one and all metal trucks.  They also had coil couplers that were activated with a slider shoe.  What I'm doing with mine is activating those couplers with a whistle relay, so they'll uncouple anywhere with a push of the whistle button.  Yea, I know command control does that, but I first did this back in the 70's, after I read about a prewar Lionel engine that had that feature.  It's a neat thing for a conventional layout when you like to do switching.  

 

The NW-2 engines with the heavy frames were the 622, 623, 624, 6220, and the 6250.  They also had extra applied detail such as wire handrails, marker lights, and radio antennas.   As far as I know they all run great on O-27 switches.  I have two 624s and a 623.  Great engines!

Last edited by John23
j white posted:

 

... When I designed my layout, I tried to make it so that none of my switches used the curved leg as the main line. As a result, almost all of my running of the above engines is through the straight portion of the switches. My last layout wasn't planned like that and derailments were more common ...

J White

That is definitely a good idea, although I haven't strictly adhered to it on my O27 layout for the sake of saving space. Some of my switches needed adjustments for reliable operation. Correct wheel gauge and flange profiles are also factors for locos and trains whizzing through O27 curves and switches.

I favor smaller locos for O27, mainly the common 2-4-2 types. My #333 Marx 4-6-2 does OK on O27 but it would prefer O31 or O34. My 4-axle diesels track well on O27. I would avoid 8-coupled steamers for sure, and anything else with a longer rigid wheelbase, unless you strictly avoid mainline passage through the curved leg of O27 switches, and provide easements for all O27 curves.

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Last edited by Ace

I agree on the PW GP-9 engines, as TNCENTRR stated.   I have several and never any problem on the prior 027 track layouts I had.  The earlier 50s, late 40s NW2 switchers also run great on 027 sized rails and 031 curves.  I have ran 622s, 623s, 6220s and 623s with no difficulty, and they can really pull a good consist.  My favorite PW steamers are the 2035s.  They have a different boiler than others and are some of the best pullers for the semi-sized engines.  As for 027 sized track, it works great on O gauge sized layouts as light rail for sidings and classification yards.  A great way to put to use the "lay-around" 027 track one may have in boxes.  Have read, and saw pics of, a large layout utilizing only 027 size track, albiet with 072 curves.  Yes, it looked very good and lower rail profile, along with extra ties, works just as well as any other.  Also, 027 track interfaces with Atlas switches quite well, probably Gargraves switches also.  Yes, interface pins for the different rail profiles are available.

Jesse   TCA  12-68275 

I heard that the couplers on the K-Line switcher were kind of stiff and tended to strong-arm trailing freight cars off the rails on O27 curves.  I don't own one, just hearsay.   I do know that the RailKing USRA 0-6-0 (which is actually a scale model, BTW) works very well on O27 and is a super-smooth slow speed runner!  Where were these locos 20 years ago when my brother and I had our O27 layout!?

Last edited by Ted S

I have a powered—wired in series to slow down—and dummy Williams GP9, the shells of which are from PW molds, and agree that they are good choices for O27. That said, they do not look good with the Marx-mold K-Line boxcars, but does anything really? ;-)

My other locomotives that I run on my O27 layout are: K-Line MP15—also wired in series—Lionel Hudson Jr., Lionel Mikado LionChief Plus, Lionel 0–6–0 Docksider, two RMT Buddy RDCs. I use K-Line low-profile O27 switches, but none of these will have any clearance issues with the Lionel O27 switches. IMnotsoHO, all of these look good on running on O27.

The Lionel 0–6–0 Docksider is a great small locomotive, a strong puller with good smoke production. However, it does frequently stall out on my switches, so I usually run it locked into forward, which solves the problem. I would think that the Lionchief (+?) Docksiders would not have the stalling issue, because the issue is a brief interruption in power causes the reverse unit to cycle into neutral.

Hi @Matt_GNo27, what's the SKU number / year of your LionChief Plus Mikado?  Another forum member tried two of them, and he claimed they both balked on his O31 curves.  He ended up trading them in.  If they changed the tolerances on the running gear between production runs, I would like to know which are compatible with the tighter curves.  Thanks!

Last edited by Ted S
Ted S posted:

Hi @Matt_GNo27, what's the SKU number / year of your LionChief Plus Mikado?  At least one other person on the Forum tried two of them, and he claimed they both balked on his O31 curves.  He ended up trading them in.  If they changed the tolerances on the running gear between production runs, I would like to know which are compatible with the tighter curves.  Thanks!

Ted,

It is the 6-81296, which is the Great Northern Mikado introduced in 2014. I have had no issues with it balking at O27 curves. The only issue that I had with derailing was on a single K-Line low-profile switch, which I easily remedied.

The locomotive would perceive a small dip where the frog met the outside rail, when the loco would enter via the turned out position. A sliver of double-sided, foam tape with the one of the sticky sides left covered placed on the side of the frog where it contacted the outside rail when in the turned out position did the trick.

—Matt

Last edited by Matt_GNo27

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