Brake Fluid for Stripping Paint

I use brake fluid.

some say it will melt the plastic, I have never had that happen.

Its always worked for me.

Isopropyl alcohol will also work for paint stripping.

I used oven cleaner before I had access to a bead blaster.  I like the results I get from the bead blaster, it removes even the paint in the cracks that the solvents sometimes leave.

Bob, I've tried it in the past with fine results, but the last couple of pieces I did I used 91% isopropyl alcohol.

 

It worked just as good if not better and I felt more comfortable as far as safety (myself and the trains) goes.

 

CVS pharmacy sells it as well as others.  I let my shells soak in it overnight, even longer on a couple of them.  Go to the store and get an aluminum baking pan that's big enough for the piece to sit in, but small enough you don't need a 5 gallon can of alcohol.

 

I've also used Easy-Off Oven Cleaner.  Works great but it'll eat aluminum (baking pans)

I have used brake fluid with success on post war GP 7 shells didn't seem to harm the plastic. Used a wallpaper plastic trough to soak in.

Whoever is using alcohol either must not be trying to remove markings from Bachmann stuff or is soaking the parts for several days. It won't do anything to my Bachmann On30 stuff...

I have used brake fluid for 40 years no issues. It was the only thing that would strip factory paint off HO scale locos and cars. I have used it in O scale too....but do not feel the need to stip the paint 100% on O scale stuff. This DASH has a Conrail paint job under that CSX.....it wasn't worth the work to remove the Conrail IMHO

 

Alcohol, 91-93 %,  generally will only work on lacquer based paint. Much of the industry has moved to a powder coating like process where they spray a powder on the model then bake it to a paint like surface. This has much less waste than spray painting models and is easier to control. 

 

You can always try the alcohol and if it doesn't work no harm....then move to brake fluid. BTW....when I use brake fluid I get the open bottle from the garage and use it....do not buy new. Brake fluid has a short shelf life so do not keep it for car use long....but works on paint fine!!!

That would be my next question.  I am changing a Mikado from UP to T&P, but don't think I can match the paint, so the question is whether to completely strip, strip on area to be changed and repaint that and repaint over remaining with same paint.

 

Yeah but that's scale, isn't it?

Just when through this.
After much research I settled on Super Clean degreaser.
Used to be made by Castrol.
On sale ate Autozone for 50% off.
Bought two gallons for $10.00.
Great stuff. Put it in a covered 5 gallon bucket with cover.

Removed every bit of paint on a Weaver RS3.
The Walter product barely touched the paint.
Soak it overnight and then rinse.
Easier to dispose of than brake fluid.
Plus the paint sinks to bottom.
I scooped a cup full off the top, diluted it and cleaned all my lawn furniture.
Wear gloves if touching for a long time.
I did not but rinsed immediately. But I could tell it was caustic.
No damage but really clean hands. Living on the edge I guess. Lol.

Sorry....don't understand the question.....

 

Super Clean has been used for a long time by the model car guys....they say it works well but having never used it....I don't advise it.....I need to try it first!

 

As for painting your MIKE....kinda depends on what you need to change.....if it's lots of places on the loco and tender I'd just paint the whole thing.

My experience with Super Clean (and the like) is that it sucks all of the oil out of your skin better than it removes paint from a model. I tried it on a silver Williams GG1. It took the red stripe off right now, the silver paint stayed on (even after several days soaking) until the brake fluid came to the rescue.

 

I f you insist on using Super Clean, be sure to wear good rubber gloves!

I'll take one of those "bead blasters" if you have one just laying around.  Until then, brake fluid does wonderful-enough things for me.

Having done more bead blasting than using strippers, I would use caution.
Wrong pressure and glass bead will cut and remove detail on plastic.
When used to clean aluminum, it fractures before doing damage.
Not so with plastic.
I would thing soda blasting would be safer.

On the Super Clean issue.
Like I said, it removed paint that the Walters product  did nothing to.
24 hours is the recommended time.
I doubt anything other than abrasives would remove some of the catalyzed polyurethane paints.

It will defat and being a caustic, might actually dissolve skin.
Most organic solvents will defat.
A limitless hand lotion applied prior to handling helps a lot.

Be safe and wear gloves or use tongs when using any of the strippers.
Main advantage to degreasers over brake fluid is disposal.
Pour enough brake fluid down your drain and you can expect the EPA to visit you.

I use them all...super clean, 91% isopropyl alcohol and DOT3 brake fluid...even used Pine-Sol before. Different paints need different strippers.  

I soaked an MTH Southern Caboose parts in 91% isopropyl alcohol and the acrylic paint I had applied, as well as MTH's color fell off the caboose.  I think I will not use acrylic to repaint.  I don't like its results.  I used flat finish, and now think I prefer gloss or semi-gloss, but prefer a different kind of paint.  Maybe I'll use a rattle can to start.  I am considering trupaintcolors.com.  If I use a rattle can, I will paint over the original colors, but where I have tried acrylics, I have to strip because the acrylic puddled up in spots that will leave a raised (not smooth) finish.

Brake fluid ate a Kusan BEEP body I had - turned it soft, but otherwise I hae had good experience with it.  I does no harm to try alcohol first.