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     This is a side project that I started last winter after reading a thread speculating how to build a rotisserie style layout. I've thrown my O&W project on the back burner. If nothing else, my Utica Division thread really showed me that despite my grand ideas and tons of input from you guys, I really just don't have the space/basement layout to accomplish what I want.  I'm still kicking around a modular setup, but as most of the structures will need to be scratch built, that will be down the road. I'll most likely end up with just an separate thread for my O&W themed projects while I let the layout part of the project simmer.

 

     But, I still need a place to run some trains. With winter rolling around again, and some nasty weather preventing me from doing anything outside, it was the perfect time to get moving on this project again.

 

     Here is the thread that started this all: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...52#34654645660858052

 

 

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     All of that was accomplished last winter. As I am definitely not a carpenter, it was a lot of trial and error. I had originally tried to recycle some lumber that was left in in the house when I bought it, but it ended up being warped/twisted just enough to throw everything off, resulting in a rebuild of the base. The complete table breaks down into five pieces, so it can be dismantled and moved if needed. Eight bolts hold it all together and the table just rests in a couple notches in the end frames. The pieces of lumber on the hinges hold the table stationary. I've put about 80 lbs on the table edge towards the middle, and had about 1/8" deflection. That was well within my own safety standards for weight capacity. The table itself can be opened, with a long piano hinge and four clasps allowing access. Inside, the framing has holes cut in it to allow for wires to run inside the table. The side of the table that lifts, will have foamboard glued to it to help make it more rigid.

 

     After getting that far, spring came and the trains dropped in priority to outdoor projects. I did make the decision to to a tinplate style layout on one side, and began collecting tracks and accessories for that. I am still up in the air on what I want to put on the other side, although I am leaning towards an HO layout to run my HO O&W equipment. Now that wintertime is approaching again, and with the weather being kind of crappy out, I decided to test fit everything that I accrued. I have to move one siding (not a big deal, and not pictured due to the following issue), and had to buy another switch. A box labelled "right hand" switch in fact had a left hand switch in it. As I had bought them all from different vendors, there was no way to pin who had sold me the incorrect switch. My bad for not checking sooner.

 

 

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The table got cleared off and primed tonight. I'll be painting it green tomorrow, and hopefully begin securing track. I'll keep posting pictures as it progresses! Still have a few more accessories I'd like, and should have the last of the track I need, a switch and two uncoupling sections, in my hands by the end of the week.

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Last edited by cmscanuck
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That is a really neat design (and idea) for a train table. Looks great. I would be interested in more details of how you built it that you could provide. Things like pipe size used and how you connected it to the ends. More on the locking or stabilizing knob setup would be interesting and also how it assembles and dis-assembles.

 

Please take lots of pictures and keep us updated on your progress.

This is a great idea; a game-changer I would say. Thanks for this.

I can see this working wonderfully for those with mobility problems. How?

A single-sided layout table of this style means the track side can be swung to vertical and worked on. The reverse swing works equally well for wiring installation and access.

The locking arrangement looks sturdy - I assume the two end plates screw down and prevent rotation of the main board?

My own layout plans are along the lines of an extended 4x8' or 5x10' onto an extended narrow shelf configuration. This rotisserie design would work really well as one end of my layout table will be up against the shelf area.

 

Had a chance to put in a little more work on the layout today. I was able to get the table painted and got the straight sections of the outer loop measured out and secured. Before going any further, I decided it best to test the track out as it goes down so I can troubleshoot issues before it becomes a hassle and I have to take things apart. I'm pleased to report my new 261E made its inaugural run flawlessly around the outer loop.

 

Dave - Thanks for the kind words!

 

rtr12 - I'll get some better pictures of the end pieces, and a basic materials list. It's been about a year so I need to go measure some stuff to remember what I used.

 

Firewood - Again, thanks for the kind words. While I agree with your idea in that application, the current design would need some revamping to make it viable. Mainly, you would need to come up with a single center beam to allow access to the table in a vertical position. The two braces I have now would restrict that. I would also try to use a split door design with hinges for the table top located at the ends. This would make them far less cumbersome, although it would require a little more creative layout design to make it work as a double sided table. The single door, particularly on the 4x almost 8 (94") would be very hard to open or prevent access.

 

 

Yes, the two end plates screw down into the top 2x4 cross brace.The main board is 1x4's with 1/4" ply to keep the weight down. With the table being framed all the way across, and using a 1" iron pipe to support it, there is no flex.

 

I imagine this could be used on a larger layout to switch up industries.

 

 

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rtr12 - I was able to take a few close ups of the functional parts of the end frames.

 

I'll start off with a parts list, which is rough, since I didn't keep track of it all as I built it.

 

For nuts and bolts, I leave the sizes to what you think is sturdy enough, if i recall, it was 1/2" for the leg bolts and 3/8" for the knobs that stabilize the table.

 

Components:

2x sheets of 1/4" plywood (table surface)

6x 1x4 (table framing)

2x 4x4 (for end frame posts)

2x 1x6 (for end frame and compression plates)

2x 10' 2x4 (for end frame longitudinal supports)

3x 8'2x4 (for end frame cross braces & angled section of longitudinal supports)

1x 10' black iron pipe

1x 6ft piano hinge

2x 3ft piano hinge

8x Bolts/nuts/washers (to attach longitudinal supports to end frames)

4x clasps (to keep hinged table closed)

2x locking non-marking rolling casters

2x non-marking rolling casters

1 length of threaded rod (for stabilizing table)

4x threaded knobs

4x washers

4x threaded wood inserts

1x roll of weather stripping (as I am a terrible carpenter, I used this to close up any fudge factor on my compression plates)

 

 

 The notch in a 2x4 that the table rests in. Nothing actually hold the table to the frame, just weight. The extra pipe sticking out not only prevents the pipe moving longitudinally, but makes a great handle for lifting the table out of the notch.

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This shot shows where I cut this sill plate short to allow a place for the wiring to come out of the table. There are two holes, for for each harness for the two side of the table. I still need to place some weather stripping on that particular sill.

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This picture shows the bolt setup in the end frames. The upper bolts maintain the proper distance while the lower bolts keep the uprights vertical.

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Another picture of the end frame and cross braces.

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A picture from underneath showing the bottom table and how everything is spaced.

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These knobs screw into threaded inserts in the upper 2x4 (the same one with the notch cut in it) The piece compresses against the sills on the ends of the table to keep it from rotating. The weatherstripping allows me to not be perfect and still get pretty solid compression.

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Last edited by cmscanuck

Thank you for going to all the trouble of more pictures and a materials list. From this batch of pictures and your further explanations, I can see how it all goes together now. For not being much of a carpenter, I think you did a great job here and I think you have a really neat design as well. The fact that it can be taken apart and stored, the top opens for wiring and it's on casters is the icing on the cake. Looks like you thought of everything here. I am going to copy all this and save it. I imagine there will be a lot of other folks interested in these details too.

A little more progress today... got 95% of the track mounted. Still waiting on one operating track section to arrive before I can put in the last siding. Everything was wired up, tested and checked out prior to mounting, so hopefully it will all work when I get it wired up again! I have other things to accomplish the next few days, so the joy of wiring will have to wait until this weekend!

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It has been awhile since my last update, but the layout is slowly coming together! Lets see...

- Mounted and wired some of the accessories I already have. I do have to remove the rotating light beacon lens and the roof of the powerhouse when I flip the table. I still need to pick up one more semaphore and I would like a Shell Oil Derrick.  Then I will have everything I initially wanted with space to add a few more.

- I wired the mains. They are split from each other and then split into two blocks, making four blocks total. I'll be running DCS for controls. The track has been tested in conventional control and everything works as when I first laid it out with all the isolation pins now in.

- I put LED bulbs in the switch stand lights in the power locks-ons. I had a "senior" moment, and totally forgot about the lights on the track bumpers and the switch controllers, so I will have to order a second batch.

     My game plan for my remaining time home before heading back to the ship is to mount and wire all the switches, the uncouplers, and the buckets for the coal bin. I would also like to get the one semaphore mounted and wired if time permits. I already have relays, but want to pick up a couple unlighted lock-ons for attaching them to the track.

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Last edited by cmscanuck

     For the first time ever, I have a "working" layout! I say "working" as there are a couple bugs to work out. The advanced planning for wiring and such worked out well, and the track/switches pretty much fired right up from when I did the test fit. The only issue with this part was a switch that would not throw. It turned out the controller for that switch had gone bad internally, and luckily I had a spare switch I could rob the controller from. My only other "issue" is a block signal circuit that is not working as I intended, But, relatively minor and will be sorted out eventually. I still have 3 operating track sections to wire up that require wiring extensions, and one more block signal to install, but the O gauge side of the layout is pretty much "finished" at this point.

     The other side will be an HO NYO&W themed layout. I'm still kicking around track plans for it, but that one should be much less intensive wiring wise. Videos to follow.

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