Skip to main content

I have just completed a scratched built structure and would like to post the assembly technique. I hope to start posting 'articles' like this every now and then. In addition to the posting below I have also attached a pdf file for anyone who would like to download.

 



In this article I will show how to build a custom designed freight station. The design is based on a previous build in which I assembled the basic framework and the customer completed the wall and roof lamination.

DSCF3269



Ordinarily I would cut the end walls as one piece and use an Exacto blade to cut the roof line but because at one end the roof hangs over by 1 inch I chose to cut all ends plus the interior walls (support) as two piece units and glue together. The glues used were Plastruct Bondene for similar plastic (styrene to styrene) and Plastic Weld for dissimilar plastic to plastic. I used .080 (80 mil) styrene plastic for the walls and reinforced the inside for stability (warping). I used a table saw to ensure straight and consistent cuts on all pieces.

 

Custom Built Freight Station 001r

Custom Built Freight Station 002r

 



The holes for doors and windows were outlined in pencil then cut out using a plastic nibbler purchased from MircoMark. A 3/8 inch diameter hole was drilled first to allow tool access. Shown below are all exterior and interior walls placed in flat in position on the table then taped together.

 

Custom Built Freight Station 003rCustom Built Freight Station 004r



Before gluing the walls together 3M Super 77 spray adhesive was used to laminate all exterior walls with Plastruct O scale 91551 clapboard siding. After the siding was applied The walls were glued together. Interior bracing was used to give more glue surface where the walls met.

 

Custom Built Freight Station 004 [1)

Custom Built Freight Station 004 [5)



Once the two sections were glued together a laminated piece of styrene was cut to fit the exposed portion of the wall where the two sections met.

 

Custom Built Freight Station 004 [7)



Once all the walls were glued together it was time to add angle stock to the outside corners and roof bracing plus a some C-channel that would be used for lighting.

 

Custom Built Freight Station 004 [8)



The roof was assembled next by cutting two separate pieces of 80 mil styrene. Thick styrene was used for stability since it will be simply painted and no roof lamination used. The roof panels were sanded with 80 grit paper to roughen them up. A small angle was also sanded on the edges were the panels met. To glue the panels together the building itself was used as a jig. The panels were placed into position, glue added to the seam and both held in place till the glue took hold. The nice thing about Plastruct Bondene is that since it melts the plastic it helps to make the seam disappear. However to make the roof look neater 30 mil flat strip stock was glued along the apex of the roof.

Custom Built Freight Station 004 [10)



Next was the wood deck. I purchased 1/16 and ¼ inch flat stock cut out the platform and the supports. Wood glue was used to glue the supports and braces to the platform. 1/16 inch stock was used around the perimeter of the supports.

Custom Freight Station 10_13 001

Custom Freight Station 10_13 002

 

 



The building was fitted to the platform and 1/16 x 1/8 stock used on the exposed deck to simulate wood planks. The base was then painted black followed by Testors Railroad Tie Brown (not longer made). The long dock was made by gluing together two OGR docks and again painting Testors RR Tie Brown over black.

 

Custom Freight Station 002



The roof was painted black and while the paint was still wet Woodland Scenics Cinder Ballast was sprinkled onto the paint. I let the paint dry overnight then sprayed it with Matt Medium and added more ballast where needed.

Custom Freight Station 003



The windows again were painted black but over sprayed with Testors Roof Brown (no longer made). This combination gave a darker brown than using RR Tie Brown.

The main building was painted black followed by Rustoleum Camouflaged Khaki.

 

Custom Freight Station 001



Interior lights were added then the windows installed. Except for some touch up paint the building is complete.

 

Custom Freight Station 001

Custom Freight Station 003

Custom Freight Station 004

 

 

Attachments

Last edited by Joe Fauty
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Very nice! Thanks for all the pictures and tutorial. I've been thinking about scratch building some small track side control boxes and this is a good primer to get started. Your tips on the glues used were very nice to have as well. I always seem to have trouble getting the proper glue for the material being used. 

Looking forward to more of your tutorials.

BW:

Because of my business I have an account with Plastruct so buy all plastic and a lot of wood from them.

Process for selection of materials is more involved. Best I can say is that I started custom building plastic structures in 2007 and it has been a learning experience.  If I can, I choose ABS over styrene due to its stiffness. If I need to bend plastic around a curve styrene is the way to go. If I am making a wall where I have to cut out openings for windows or doors I will use styrene whether I am using a razor blade or a nibbler.

A basic rule (one I have learned from Alan Graziano) is that if you use plastic sheets you need to worry about warping down the line so must reinforce walls with gussets, horizontal and vertical strips of plastic. I have even had 80 mil styrene walkways (80 mil styrene with diamond plate sheet and railings applied) warp if not reinforced on the bottom perimeter or glued down to the structure. If you look at Alan's postings you will always see strip styrene or ABS used in the interior for stability.  Whether warping is inherent in the plastic or is a function of the lamination on one side only I am not sure.

If I am building a structure that has no laminated sheets (brick, block, roofing etc) I will always use 80 mil thick styrene but still use corner bracing. If you look at the grain elevators I have built, all the main buildings are made with 80 mil styrene with 1/4 inch square rods running vertically down the corners. 

For the freight station above if you look closely you will see corner bracing and square rods glued to opposite walls on the bottom of the building. I probably should have glued more square stock along the bottom perimeter of the walls but I used 80 mil styrene (not 40 mil, I made a mistake in the article and have just corrected it) and am thinking the current bracing will be ok.

Joe

Hey Joe

thanks

I am only discovering the things that are available.  It is funny even in the goggle age you can not find something if it just does not occur to you to look

 

your step by step is great for lots of reasons but for a newbie like me mentioning in detail things like that really helps because now I know to look

great tutorial I can hardly wait for the next one

BWRR posted:

I am wondering:

Do you buy the windows and doors or make them?

Why do you paint over black?  Are you using it sort of as primer or is it doing something else?

BW:

I used to buy my doors and windows from Scale Arts Parts but they closed up shop. I now buy from Grandt Line along with other details they sell. The doors are from Scale Arts stock I still have. The windows are all Grandt Line.

Painting over black is just a personal preference. I like the way a top coat color darkens up plus I tend not to spray the top coat with 100% coverage so as to make the structure look 'dirty'. The black paint I use is a Rustoleum 2X product that is supposed to stick to plastic. I have not had any issues with it as yet.

A lot of times I have a structure that is a mixture of gray ABS and white styrene. I find it best to prime the structure with Rustoleum White Plastic Primer first so the top coat color looks more even.

Joe

Sometimes I will use textured paint; for example take a look at the roof and brick on the Schomberg Feed and Grain building

 Schomberg Feed and Seed Mill 002

If I am trying to create a concrete look on a building I use black / red oxide / dark gray then either white or light gray depending on how dirty I want the building to be - see below

16 Unit Grain Silo Goble

Suncoast Coaling Station 004

I tend to simulate rust first by using paint - red oxide over base color then maybe follow up with powders.

Water Tank Line Up

For basic grime and soot I go to powders

003

Coal Gas Processing Building 013

Joe

 

Attachments

Images (6)
  • Schomberg Feed and Seed Mill 002
  • 16 Unit Grain Silo Goble
  • Water Tank Line Up
  • Suncoast Coaling Station 004
  • 003
  • Coal Gas Processing Building 013
Last edited by Joe Fauty

BW:

When I started out I was only building wood bridges and decking. I am a woodworker from way back and knew I could build better bridges then what was being offered back then. I bought a couple of Kalmbach books on bridges and decking to get an idea about dimensions and surfed the internet to see examples.

Since I was retired I got a chance to work part time in a train store (until it folded). The owner saw my wood work and started selling my bridges and decking. One day Greg asked me if I could put together some OGR plastic kits he wanted to try on Ebay. They looked good and sold. Pretty soon he had me building some craftsman kits (wood and hydrocal). I just sort of picked it up getting better as I went along.

I honestly can't remember how I started scratchbuilding in plastic. I know I would surf the net looking at pictures to get ideas then draw designs in a book I kept. One design would lead to another for example the refinery structures. One design for a square crude oil furnace I copied from a patent I found on line.

As for books again I can't remember which ones I first bought but three good recent ones (Kalmbach) are

Structure Projects for Your Model RR - Staff

Basic Structure Modeling - Jeff Wilson

Modeling Structures - Jeff Wilson

Joe

 

BW:

I believe what BW means by 'grab' in this instance is that the motion of the blade causes the plastic to ride up along the side of the blade and start chattering along the blade teeth at the top of the rotation resulting in a very uneven cut if not massive chip outs from the plastic). The other type of grab is when the motion of the blade forces the piece riding along the fence to shoot out and hit the person doing the cutting. This will occur if the piece is not supported in any way or supported only at the very back during the cut (learned this one the hard way in my reckless youth).

I find that an 80 tooth thin blade (I use a stiffener) is way less likely to chip any plastic but it will still grab even with a splitter in use since the plastic does not make it to the splitter before the blade grabs and forces the plastic up. Blade grab is prevalent when cutting narrow strips (no weight or mass to speak of).

To avoid blade grab you have to apply downward pressure along the length of the piece riding against the fence as it passes through the blade - 

1. Set the blade so that the tooth gullet is just a little bit higher than the the thickness of the plastic you are cutting. This serves two purposes - first the blade will tend to cut through and not 'chop' down on the plastic and second there is little blade above the plastic for item 2 below.

2. I have shop built push sticks of different lengths (3/4 inch plywood or pine with a 1/8 thick stop on the bottom to grab the end of the piece I am cutting. The push sticks are designed so that the blade is buried inside of them giving support on both sides of the blade and saving my fingers. Inexpensive wood is used to make the push sticks since they get 'chewed' up fairly quickly by the blade due to the different widths of stock that need to be cut.

3. For short pieces or small pieces I have a 'small parts' tablesaw sled I use which makes cutting these easy and safe.

Cutting wide strips is easier since you can apply downward pressure with your hands (if enough room) or a finger board as the plastic passes by the blade. If I have ample room on the fence side I will use my hands. If I feel uncomfortable I will use a finger board.

Joe

I meant both.  Thin material usually requires high tooth count blades, but I often feel like table saw blades just dont have a high enough tooth count when you need it.

I had the same lesson in my full fingered youth.  I paid hard to learn to be super careful using a table saw to cut small parts.

I like the idea of using a table saw to get nice precision cuts, but the very thin material had me thinking.

I like the idea of a push stick that  fully covers, I had never thought of that.

What is the kerf on that thin rim 80, and where did you find it?  I tried AMAZON and am only getting 12" hits

BW/Mike:

BW:

For Forrest blade go to http://www.forrestblades.com/duraline-thin-rim/

I bought my forrest blade directly from Forrest because I could talk to them and get expert opinions on proper blades. Almost all my blades are Forrest due to their excellent quality and the fact they are USA made.

Shop Jigs 006

For Tenyru go to https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...JF3BYN653SS1CYPYMHS0

Mike:

See pictures below - 

The small parts tablesaw sled. Not fancy but it gets the job done. I used plywood but only baltic birch plywood for its stability. Baltic birch is more expensive than normal plywood but with 3x-4x the number of plys it is extremely stable.

PS - to line up the front fence perpendicular to the saw blade go to http://valleywoodworkers.org/w...5CutMethodSquare.pdf. As you can see from all the holes on the front fence I am still not all that good at it.

Shop Jigs 001

Shop Jigs 002

Two of my push sticks are below. You can see how chewed up they get. These two are almost ready for replacement. The stop is just a piece of 1/8 inch hardboard glued on. You want to make the stop as thin as practicable otherwise the plastic will rattle towards the end of the cut since there is nothing supporting it. You can also make the push stick as tall as you want depending on how comfortable you are holding on to it during the cut.

Shop Jigs 003

Shop Jigs 004

Below is one of my finger boards (well used - better those fingers cut off than mine...............). I have some shop made but frankly it is time consuming to make them and too easy to purchase these.

Shop Jigs 005

Attachments

Images (6)
  • Shop Jigs 001
  • Shop Jigs 002
  • Shop Jigs 003
  • Shop Jigs 004
  • Shop Jigs 005
  • Shop Jigs 006
Last edited by Joe Fauty

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×