cutting Fastrack

A Dremel type cut-off wheel is really a good way to go. Since you can't hold the tool 90 degrees to the track, cut it about 1/4 inch too long. Then you can make a second cut to the length you need to leave because now the tool can be at 90 degrees.

I would cut it close with a fine blade in a power miter saw, taking your time to cut through and not pull it apart, and then mount it back on your platform to finish with a belt sander, again going slow and checking/re-checking the fit as you go.

Bedrock16,

      You could say I have a little more experience in making custom pieces for my multi-level FasTrack layout than most.  I have used about every method that works, however the very best method I have found is using the Rockwell X2 Portable Table Saw.  Using this beautiful light little Portable Table Saw you can make custom FasTrack pieces to any size and any curvature you want, using your existing FasTrack.  The cuts are beautifully clean, and the Track can be turned in any direction at any angle needed while working, to make custom close out pieces.  You must use the FasTrack end pin pieces from the track you cut, so do not discard them.  You will see what I am talking about as you do the job.  I have multiple old pieces of FasTrack that I can steal pins from also.  Purchasing these pins is tough to say the least, I definitely need some vendor to just purchase the FasTrack Pins, if anyone know a vendor who stocks them, please speak up.   The Rockwell X2 Portable Table Saw can be purchased from Lowes, for $89.00 if you are a Military Veteran.  I own 2 of these X2 Portable Table Saws, one for my mountain home in Potter/Tioga and one for here at the main home outside of Pittsburgh, Pa.  Great piece of Rockwell tool Engineering, that cuts FasTrack perfectly.

PCRR/Dave 

Thanks all.  Do you have any suggestions for a blade for my miter saw?  I think that would be cheaper than buying a whole new piece of equipment to accomplish this one task.

The finest tooth blade that you have or highest tooth count. I am sure you know to leave the line or allow for blade kerf. Use a piece you can sacrifice for the test cut.

thanks guys I was going to ask the same question about cutting fastrack, as I have finished the around the room layout but I have to duck under at the corner of the layout going into the room. I wont be able to do this after I have my upcoming heart surgery so I need to put in a fold down section here so that I can get in and out without having to crawl under. my only concern is because the two cuts at each end are on curves and unfortunately they are in the middle of track sections I am worried about how to do electrical connections should I use feeder wires or some other type of contacts? thanks for the feedback. 

GeoPeaks posted:

thanks guys I was going to ask the same question about cutting fastrack, as I have finished the around the room layout but I have to duck under at the corner of the layout going into the room. I wont be able to do this after I have my upcoming heart surgery so I need to put in a fold down section here so that I can get in and out without having to crawl under. my only concern is because the two cuts at each end are on curves and unfortunately they are in the middle of track sections I am worried about how to do electrical connections should I use feeder wires or some other type of contacts? thanks for the feedback. 

Geopeaks,

I can't find the thread now, but a few members posted their swinging in solution. Not a difficult build, I think about the same as a drop-down. The power wires jumper or extend from the hinged side. Many like to put some power switches in to cut the approaching track power for the additional safety factor. Still, not  difficult to do. The important factor is to have a small gap in the rails after the cut.

You can solder the wires to the rail tabs on the bottom of FasTrack.

PCRR/Dave,

AFAIK the "pins" are not meant to come out of the track, and for sure, are not easily reinstalled in a cut section of track ala tubular. How do you do it?

This is a technique I learned here about two years ago: I make custom fastrack fitter pieces by "sectioning" the piece out of the middle, retaining both ends. These ends are joined together using O-27 track pins that fit perfectly into the rail once the plastic is cleared away. A quick squeeze with my little end-nippers to crimp the track around the pin, and it's done.