ES44AC cutting out when traveling over 45° crossing

What happens if you run the engine backwards over that spot?  Any difference?  How about running into the turn-out?  Does that work?  Did you try replacing the short piece of track between the cross-over and the switch?  I would try swapping it with the one on the other leg and see if the problem moves.

You might also check the rear power roller, see if it is springing back down right away, I don't know but I would think it might rise up alittle when going over the crossover. But then again I could be wrong.

mike g. posted:

You might also check the rear power roller, see if it is springing back down right away, I don't know but I would think it might rise up alittle when going over the crossover. But then again I could be wrong.

This is a good point!  I had that exact problem with an MTH ES44AC.  The pickup rollers should "snap" back to fully extended when you press them down with your fingers and release them.  

The front pickup roller is on a dead spot on the switch, the rear pickup roller is on a dead spot on the crossing.   In this situation, there is no power to the loco.  You either have to move the switch relative to the crossing, or go faster.

Bpars,

      Have you tested continuity on all the pick up rollers?  If so then I would suspect the same problem that santafefan suggests.

Ditto-  both rollers are on dead spots...  Move the switch an inch....

ssm posted:

 

Bpars,

      Have you tested continuity on all the pick up rollers?  If so then I would suspect the same problem that santafefan suggests.

How would I test the continuity? As per all of the recommendations here is what I have done so far. At a curve, I placed just the front truck on the track and got power. I also placed just the back truck on the track and got power. I changed the position of the two pieces of track between the crossover and the switch.  I checked for dead spots using a volt meter from the switch to the crossover and found no drop in power until I reached the plastic parts in the crossover. I will try taking the switch out tomorrow and replacing it with a 10" straight piece but it is frustrating that the setup is  identical on the three other sides and yet it doesn't re-create the same dead spot. 

Just for ha-ha's, is the jumper wire still in place for the 1 3/8" piece?  It looks as if the rollers are exactly landing on the dead spot of the cross and the guide rail of the switch, both plastic. (indicated by circles) Put some tape on the truck that indicates where the rollers are. Then,when it stops, put a piece of tape on track. Then, you can observe and test those track locations.

I don't know how you move the switch further away from the cross if it isn't the 1 3/8" that's dead. The track combo doesn't look like it will let you do that.

See photos that I snipped...

Just wondering , Have you turned the engine around and tried to run it in the other direction into the crossover?

I looked at the video again.  It appears the center rail of the 1 3/8" track is cut.  Are you doing that for block isolation?  To me it appears the trailing truck is past the natural dead spot in the cross-over.  But there could be an issue created by the cut center rail of the small piece.

Is the track identical in each direction? If it works thru 3 legs and not the fourth I'd say one of those legs has no ground/common at that spot.

When it stops roll it over and see where the pick up rollers (and rubber tires, dummy wheels) are.

BobbyD posted:

Is the track identical in each direction? If it works thru 3 legs and not the fourth I'd say one of those legs has no ground/common at that spot.

When it stops roll it over and see where the pick up rollers (and rubber tires, dummy wheels) are.

 The track is identical in each direction. I think you may be onto something with regard to it not having ground. If that is the case how would I ground that section better?

Do you have a multimeter or just a volt meter?

ssm posted:

Do you have a multimeter or just a volt meter?

 I believe it is just a volt meter

You may eventually want to purchase a multimeter.  There are some basic things you can rule out using the ohm setting. 

What wheels on this engine have traction tires?

ssm posted:

You may eventually want to purchase a multimeter.  There are some basic things you can rule out using the ohm setting. 

What wheels on this engine have traction tires?

Actually it does say it is a multimeter. 

The traction tires are on the two wheels closest to the fuel tank/speaker

Have you ever used the ohm setting on a multimeter?

Any update? Did you find the cause?

Moonman posted:

Any update? Did you find the cause?

I still haven't found the cause.  SSM suggested I try using the OHM setting on my multimeter.  I Am not sure exactly what that is supposed to tell me, though.  I am trying to learn about ohms and resistance...

Put a battery in the loco

Matt Makens posted:

Put a battery in the loco

Not sure that would prevent it from stalling on that one leg of the crossing. Since 3 of 4 identical legs work, still leaning to common issues.

BPars posted:

Moonman posted:

Any update? Did you find the cause?

I still haven't found the cause.  SSM suggested I try using the OHM setting on my multimeter.  I Am not sure exactly what that is supposed to tell me, though.  I am trying to learn about ohms and resistance...

Basically it will tell you if your tracks are all connected to each other or if you have some that are missing connections. Be sure to turn off all the power to anything you are checking with the 'ohms' setting.