Factory weight of most cars good enough? I have added extra weight to to MTH 50' hi cubes, auto racks and others.
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Well, many Weaver cars were far too light, and did not play well with other cars in a train of any size. I like to simply weigh the car, measure the length, and bring it up to NMRA standards. For O-gauge, that's 5 oz + 1 oz for each inch in length. A 10" boxcar should weigh in at 15 oz.
I don't have any weight in my Cars except the ones that constantly derail. which are KMTs. Mostly all my Menards cars I add 4 1/4 Ounce weights and they seem to help.
The only cars out of the factory that don't need weight are the die cast cars and or die cast frame car designs.
prrhorseshoecurve posted:The only cars out of the factory that don't need weight are the die cast cars and or die cast frame car designs.
Well, the Atlas O cars seem to be pretty well "weighted", but pretty much everything else I have to add lead type, to bring the weight up to NMRA standards.
Most MTH cars are close enough (some Rail King are light). Most Atlas cars are at or above minimum weight. Most Weaver cars are way too light. Your best investment is an inexpensive postal scale and stick-on 1/2 and 1/4 ounce wheel weights.
SDIV Tim posted:I don't have any weight in my Cars except the ones that constantly derail. which are KMTs. Mostly all my Menards cars I add 4 1/4 Ounce weights and they seem to help.
Odd, my Menards boxcars are actually plenty heavy, I never considered adding weight to them.
No. Most cars are too light. It can't hurt.
Weight calculation for 40' Scale boxcar, 10 in long boxcar, GUNRUNNERJOHN referenced NMRA standard as car weight 5 oz plus 1 oz of weight per inch of car length, i.e., for this boxcar 10 oz of weight is needed. I used RTV as an adhesive for adding steel strip to the boxcar interior floor. Let's assume # 11 Ga.(.120 in thick) by 1 in wide steel strip is available to make this weight, the length must be determined. The weight density of steel varies somewhat but .283 lb's/in cubed is generally used in weight calculations and there are 16 oz/pound. The equation to determine the strip length L is 10oz.=(.120in.) (L)(1in.)(.283Lb/in cubed)(16oz./Lb.) solving this equation L=18.4 inches, car is 10 inch long cut two strips 9.2 inches long and RTV to boxcar floor. Strip should straddle the car longitudinal centerline and be centered in the car centerline, 5 inches for 10 inch car. This equation works for different steel strip width and thickness, substitute these values in the equation to solve for L.
AGHRMatt posted:Most MTH cars are close enough (some Rail King are light). Most Atlas cars are at or above minimum weight. Most Weaver cars are way too light. Your best investment is an inexpensive postal scale and stick-on 1/2 and 1/4 ounce wheel weights.
I also use Matt's method. Weigh the car in question to determine the amount of extra weight (if any) needed to bring the car up to the NMRA recommended standard, then add a combination of .25 and/or .5 ounce stick-on wheel weights. Very easy and very reliable!
You will be amazed at how proper weighting of your cars will improve how they run. Derailments become a thing of the past.
Take into account the center of gravity on the auto carriers and covered hoppers. .
Andrew
I'll be honest, I've never had to add weight to any of my Atlas cars.
The center of gravity is a major factor in the dynamic response and stability of real train cars and also influence model trains.
Atlas O cars are super heavy. No weight needs to be added.
Andrew
Some of the cars may have weight and you don't know it. Weaver hoppers had added weight. Undecorated models before paint.
Well, you'd know the weight is there if you just weigh the cars. Many weaver hoppers did NOT have any added weight, or at least not nearly enough.
PAUL ROMANO posted:I'll be honest, I've never had to add weight to any of my Atlas cars.
Ditto...as a matter of fact i have removed the weights in most of my atlas 2 rail hoppers and tank cars. My 5 eng MU pulling 41 cars regularly holds tight even at 45 scale mph through curves and switches.
I only add weight to Weaver cars ( boxes and open hoppers ) All other brands run just fine on my railroad.
What type of scales do you use for weighing your rolling stock?
Brent
Brent,
Purchased a Taylor Model 3720 Classic Kitchen/Diet Scale 16 oz. capacity at the local Ace Hardaware probabaly 5 years ago, if my memory is correct this scale was under $10.00, easily to use with the weighing bowl on top of the scale spring plunger to support the car underframe. This scale is used to determine the weight of the unweighted car and using the NMRA guidleines the required weight is calculated. Note on many open cars,i.e., flatcars, coal cars, tank cars, some weight should be added for better car performance eventhough because of physical limitations or esthetics the NMRA guidelines will not be met, all cars that I added weight are plastic body cars.
Per the original question: yes. Most. If you run long trains of long cars around tight curves, probably maybe sometimes depending.
BReece posted:What type of scales do you use for weighing your rolling stock?
Brent
A medium sized postage scale, then a scientific triple beam, but today a 10" round, plastic, digital kitchen scale with track on it if needed for supporting the trucks. I record the cars and add a sticker to the bottom. Then another for each load. I only add if the car is light enough to have a string-line issue, and usually do it with a load vs lead strips/steel/BBs/sinkers/marbles/ball bearings or old dry cell batteries (ok so far... for over 40 years
)
Keeping them as light as possible lets me pull more cars. Keeping the super heavies closer to the head end and "empties" towards the rear helps lots.
They range from about 5.5oz to 30oz and will stay that way, so the little 0-4-0s stand a chance at actually being run too.
A couple of those would struggle with three PW die casts, but can manage a few cast loaded Evans Auto-loaders.
If running on curves larger than 0-27, that makes it that much easier. I hardly worry on my Super O (36"). ( I am also able to reach it all, am a looper, and finding it hard to believe I'm not the lost Addams, because an occasional derail can be fun. Keeping them "on edge", a challenge that I find very fun. (another point for liking the low budget items vs bank breakers
)
Car loads add weight.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Well, you'd know the weight is there if you just weigh the cars. Many weaver hoppers did NOT have any added weight, or at least not nearly enough.
Really??? Gee Thanks, I didn't know that.
Keil-line used to sell the weights for the Weaver 2-bay hoppers - Scale City designs sells them now along with all of the details parts and everything else that Keil-line used to sell.
