First ever O-scale project and first post

Welcome to O Scale!  Nice to hear you are going to do some modeling, anyone can buy it in a box.  Plenty of stuff out there to keep you interested and busy.  I've seen many AllNation kits that have been upgraded and are very presentable and won't break the bank  to have nice models.  Again, Welcome to O Scale - for the fun of it!

Hey Welcome to O scale!

1/45
1/48
17/64

O5W
P48
On3
On30

3 rail
2 rail
High Rail

O-27 (toy trains)
O gauge (toy trains)
Zero gauge (Märklin origins here)


Confused yet!? ;-) ha hahahah

I'm jesting- no really welcome to the family!!

Actually I am leaning towards proto:48/2 rail.  (the P&D repower is in 2 rail so that was sort of decided for me.)

Erik    I think you forgot 1/43 or 7mm, boy O scale really is diverse!!!       Stephen    (cTr...Choose the Right)

....outside third rail, friction drive, live steam, R/C battery dead rail, 1:43.5...the list goes on. 

 

Don't let us distract you, sounds like you are on a good path already.

Welcome.

Welcome and don't be intimidated. 2 Rail scale is nice, but so is 3 Rail scale and it is more forgiving electrically (2 year old), and has many more choices of motive power and rolling stock. Besides it is generally much more economical as both the new and used market will show.

On this Forum, you will find a lot of expertise, knowledge and mostly fun.

Feel free to ask questions and guidance as most are very helpful. I maintain the Scenery Sourcelist which attempts to provide a place to start with buildings, scenery, "how-to's", vehicles, even furniture sources. Hope you and your 2 year old enjoy this hobby (OK, obsession) as much as we do.

Dave G. 

HelloOO! They forgot "Streets", and wind-up

O is big enough to scratch build way more items. You really just need to learn a new set of business names, and know what you want by real part name for some detailing. Its there. (Kadee makes O couplers too.)

.

Steel, brass, aluminum, plastic, new old, fast, slow, $25 or $25,000 it can be done here .    

       
       


How could I forget the British standard!

"Many more choices" 3 rail scale- that is not correct. As far as accurate scale equipment goes there has been far more "accurate" in 2 rail (O5W) in brass in the last 50 years than any 3 rail market. And what has been produced in 3 rail scale if it really is accurate "scale" than convert it in 25 min. (Except steam of course- however comma steam that is accurate has been done in said 3 rail scale (sunset) has also been done in 2 rail.

P48 is another story

Yes do not be intimidated by all the tastes. I am O5W primarily but prefer P48. P48 is the best period if you want accuracy. And all manufacturers produce at least a hand full of suitable "accurate scale" 1/48 models even Lionel "scale 3 rail" models can be made P48 masterpieces with work. Be careful with the MTH "fit the box" scale models. They are right 98% of the time and they get you just in the wrong place.

Thanks all for the welcome.  Looking forward to getting started.  I also just picked up a set of 3 brass open hopper kits off ebay and will try my hand at soldering for the first time.  For 20 bucks a kit including shipping I figure I can have one (or two?) just for practice.

 

I was also thinking since these pieces are so big, I don't need to bother with getting an airbrush and mini compressor for painting.  (probably a wise choice for weathering) I have an 80 gallon air compressor I used to paint my car and I can just get a little HVLP "spot repair" gun for this and paint models in my garage, unless there is some reason I should not do this.

 

One other random thought.  I grew up in a town called Heppner, Oregon.  We had a branch line up until the mid 90s that ran about 50 miles down Willow creek from the OR&N/UP mainline which ran along the columbia river.  We have a very old boxcar sitting out in front of an equipment museum (located in a very old grain flathouse) which still has the old arch bar trucks on it.  It is of course just slathered in red paint but I always thought it would be cool to deck it out with some era-specific paint scheme.

Why not? Some rattle can jobs look great right?

Paint fumes, air supply filtering(oil,& water& spray gun mounted inline paper filter, and temperatures over about 52°f overnight so it doesn't look "milky". If you have that taken care of, your fine. A few painters by profession, or auto-hobby here, need spray advice ask.(Even if you know what your doing you'll likely learn something new).  

I've never proclaimed to know everything.  For auto painting I know what what materials to use but no idea what works for painting plastic.  I believe my favorite paint to use when I airbrushed HO models was Floquil.  As far as filler putty, primer, etc, no clue there either.  I do have a large selection of PSA sandpaper!

 "I believe my favorite paint to use when I airbrushed HO models was Floquil.'

 

  That was pretty much every body's favorite when it was the original lacquer formula. I switched to water based years ago but the later versions or floquil are not the same as the old stuff.  I used Polly scale for years but now can't get it . Some of the better paints available today are Tamiya, Scalecoat, and Star. check them out and see what works for you....DaveB

Welcome!  Just realize that a great many comments on a forum are opinion (mine included), and you will be well advised to consider and sift through to get the answer that suits your needs.