Fixed voltage

I believe the 1033 U post is actually the HOT line, and so you should connect the 1033's A post to the ZW's U post and phase them that way.

still doesn't work. I put the jumpers back in the two 048 switches and used track power. Neither one lights up or works. Could I have damaged them? 

Some Lionel transformers like the TW are backwards labeled to put it inaccurately but short. If you have it phased, it should be fine. Check both transformers are phased with a light bulb ( or two one on each connection is about all I can think of.) also check they work hooked up to only one transformer but not off track power, to remove possible transformer issues and insure you have the wires hooked up correctly.

Also, you may need to re-phase the transformers when you switched the 1033 A and U posts...

And yes, ensure the switches work with the fixed voltage plug and ground to the center binding post first with the track transformer removed from the situation.

Moman,

    Make sure you have enough voltage running to the tracks to operate your switches properly.  Also replace all the bulbs in your 022 switches and switch controllers with LED.

PCRR/Dave

An O22 only needs 9V minimum, 14V maximum on the fixed voltage line to operate. To get the switch functional, LED bulbs (or any working bulbs) are not a requirement for the switch to throw (but may be helpful to indicate you really do have power).

bmoran4,

   That is 9-14 per switch, daisy chained together you are talking about some serious power draw, I used the 022 and 711/072 for many many years even with my FT layout before Command control was invented. I used a channel on one of my ZW's to run over

20 pair of these old Lionel switches, the LED's helped greatly and lowered the voltage draw quite a bit, however all the switches ran best at 14-16 volts and over.  The old switches draw massive power, for this reason I 1st started using the low voltage K-Line Super Snap Switches then advanced to the Lionel low voltage FT Command Control Switches, that can run wireless off track power.  If you stay with the 022 or 711/072's definitely use the LED's thru out.

PCRR/Dave

Disconnect turnouts from the layout.

Check the turnout functions with track power only, with only one transformer connected. Note peak performance is at how many volts?

Check the turnout dedicated power functions with 12-14v, again one transformer.

 Once you've confirmed those function properly, reconnect the track, and repeat the two tests(one transformer. 

 Once that operation is confirmed, then you worry about adding another transformer.

Use the bulb, or meter method. The "spark" method is for the experienced, or reckless.

A very good Lionel phasing video-http://youtu.be/iASQfnE6pCk.

While LEDs power draw is much less, that ZW should have enough kick for a whole lot of switches, bulbs, and four or more big locos.

Unless you are operating more than one, or two turnouts at a time (by switch, or auto derail) The draw isn't huge, continual, or even long. But dedicated power to turnouts is the way to go.   

Not backwards... different by convention. I still have not heard from any source what the original impetus was/is for the differentiation.

The convention is:

"Single train" transformers have the "U" terminal designated for the center rail(Lockon Clip "1"), and "multi train" transformers have the "U" terminal designated for the outer rail(Lockon Clip "2").

Appreciate the input. Disconnected the switches from the layout and ran a wired from the Aux ground and one from the power in to a separate transformer and the switch/controller lights or the switch still will not work. Switch moves freely by hand. They used to work until I tried to run them off fix voltage. I ran removed the jumper and ran a wire from the Aux In to my accessory 1033 transformer. I had some trouble phasing it to my ZW 275. Found out the "U" post was not the ground. Could this have damaged the switches? Did not affect my 022 switch though. Getting frustrated. 

Moeman, I feel your frustration - let's keep this simple for starters:

1. Take your 1033, disconnect it from everything
2. Take a fastrack switch, disconnect it from everything, including all other track sections
3. Connect a switch controller to the fastrack switch THROU, GND, OUT
4. Take the A Terminal of the 1033 and connect it to the fastrack AUX_GND
5. Take the U Terminal of the 1033 and connect it to the fastrack AUX_IN
6. With the 1033 set to 0, plug it into the wall
7. Turn up the 1033 black handle to roughly 12VAC
8. Verify Lights and switch operation
9. Celebrate that you didn't blow your switches up (or take pictures of your set up and post here for help)

Once you have made it this far, let's work on phasing your transformer:

1. Take your 1033, disconnect it form everything
2. Take your ZW, disconnect it from everything
3. Connect the 1033 A post and the ZW U Post to each other
4. Connect a lamp with one lead going to a ZW A Post, the other going to the 1033 U Post
5. Plug both transformers into the wall (making note of the plug orientation)
6. raise the 1033 and the ZW to about 12VAC. The lamp should not illuminate. If it does, reverse one of the wall plugs and now the lamp should not illuminate indicating you are in phase. (Thanks ADCX Rob for catching the typos!)

Testing the switch with two transformers:

1. Turn both transformers down to 0 volts.
2. Proceed to connect your test fastrack switch starting at step 3 from the first instruction set above.
3. Once the switch is operating per the first instruction set, turn both transformers down to 0 volts.
4. Take a power feed section of fastrack and connect it to your test switch.
5. Take power feed and connect it so that the ZW U terminal powers the outside rails and that the ZW A powers the center rail.
6. Turn up the 1033 to 12VAC and verify the switch still works
7. Turn up the ZW A to 12VAC and verify that the switch still works
8. Have a cold one - you didn't blow anything up and have a model wiring scheme to transfer to your layout!

I hope you realize this doesn't prove anything except that you have connected a lamp to the A & U terminals of the 1033. The ZW doesn't even need to be plugged in or in any orientation for this test.

This tutorial explains how to phase two transformers properly for common ground accessories.

ADCX Rob,

Thanks for catching my typo - I got mixed up because of the differing A and U posts on the different transformers - I corrected my original post accordingly.

Better recheck that paragraph again against the link I posted. It's still not right.

I don't see what you think I am missing now... care to elaborate?

It is correct, to a point, but the lamp probably will illuminate in any event, just dim or brightly.

And the wording is confusing when it reiterates "Should not illuminate".  It actually should illuminate with one orientation, brightly, and should not illuminate, or illuminate dimly, in the other orientation.

From Marty E: "If the bulb glows dim they are in phase.  If the bulb glows bright your transformers are not in phase."

Adriatic,

    That is exactly why the LED's are important, any layout with back to back to back switches, even run off an old 275 ZW draws a lot of power, and running numerous passenger trains at the same time, really put a hurt on the over all layout.  Use one Channel of the old ZW and adjust the voltage as required, and use the LED bulbs on every switch and switch controller, thru out the layout for best results.  Other wise use the low voltage K-Line Super Snap (RMT) Switches, when using conventional tubular track, or go into the more modern FasTrack with Command Control low voltage switches, and as Rob points out always Phase your transformers correctly.

PCRR/Dave

  Could this have damaged the switches?

If the phasing was done incorrectly, yes.

Incorrect phasing can cause overvoltage which could burn out coils.

 I would bet (but don't know) the 022 has a heavier winding than the newer products, so "lived".

 If a coil "burns", and your real lucky, it burns were you can repair the wire. Usually not .

 Being constant in your lingo, order, & exactness of setup, while checking things from others directions, is often necessary for a good diagnosis. Failing to note deviations from them, can easily foul the plan the helper has in his head. As Rob has pointed out in a roundabout way, mistakes, and small language quarks, have to be overcome also.    

 I would check with power jumped to the turnout rails, without a turnout controller attached to start. Just use the anti-derail circuits to trigger it. Once that is done hook the controller in, and note differences.

Now disconnect fully, and try again with the dedicated power.

 If you have four failures to operate, Id say the coil is cooked. It, and contacts, should be visually inspected, and have an ohm reading, continuity check done for clues. But coils can be tricky, the readings might be normal on a bad coil ("clues"=checking is just for revealing the obvious) 

  It sounds like inspection time if your confident you've checked operation correctly.

Dave,

  Being a self proclaimed "rookie" moving to new equipment might not be in the OPs plan yet. Same with the LED's.

  While both are a great suggestions long term, it wont make the ones he has now "operate". Only "tweak" the operation once/if they do.

 (On one line, I happily run 7-old #1122s modified for dedicated voltage, +lamps (2 at a time get activated, long trains three), another 20 assorted lights, operating luggage station, and a PW Hudson pulling 5 lit Madison cars. Power for this line is a single KW for all of the above.)

Tried all your suggestion.

Switch still does not work. Even with track power. Took the back off and everything looks good. Could the circuit board be bad on both switches?  Can these be replaced?

I couldn't find the switch stand housing, or boards

 I did happen to get reminded there is a "jump clip", or wire, necessary for track power. Track power terminal to the aux terminal right next to it, for track power.

 I don't really think that will help here.

Maybe someone else has the board info. Can you get any photos posted?

An exact turnout part number, might help now too.

Moeman,

    My advise is to go to a train show and pick up a couple 022 switches in great shape. I can pick them up here in the Pittsburgh, Pa area for $10.00 each at the train shows, and most are like brand new.  Use the problem switch for parts when needed, and keep the 2nd as a spare.

PCRR/Dave