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I am trying to decide which is a better way to go with the roadbed.  I have seen the midland cork roadbed and like the looks of it but now I am torn between that and the Flexxbed which I have seen on Eric's Trains website.  I have plywood and homesote down and would like to hear your thoughts or reviews on these two roadbeds and which you prefer and why.

 

Jo

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I'm fairly new to all this and don't know much about either product. However, I also watched Eric's videos (all of them) and am leaning toward the Flexxbed for additional noise reduction. The cork looks like it might be easier to work with and I do like the looks of it. I also like quiet track and I'm not planning to use homasote, just plywood for my layout top.

 

There are some cheaper alternatives on ebay: Sound Foam Roadbed, I have no idea of it's quality. I am still leaning toward the real Flexxbed because it is of known quality, they have been around for some time and they advertise in OGR magazine, which helps OGR and probably indirectly this Forum.

Last edited by rtr12

I have used the Flexxbed and really like it. I have not seen Eric's review, but I found the best way to curve it was to have the track already down and use the weight of the track to push the Flexxbed down and then pin it until it takes shape. I just started at one end and used finishing nails to pin the Flexxbed down and then pull the Flexxbed  under the track into the curve and keep pinning. It wants to bunch up in a tight curve but because it is foam it compresses and takes the shape all the way down to O-27 if you force it. Thence the track will uniformly push it down and with a few phone books or something to add weight. once it take shape it is done. Also if you pull it up and let it relax it will eventually straighten out again. I did notice that the Atlas track did stain the foam with the plastic ties though, not a big deal to me.

I have seen Eric's video on the Flexxbed, see photos of both here on the forums, and have worked with cork in N gauge in the past.  Here is my 2 bits, take it or leave it.  Flexxbed seems like a choice if you will be ballasting your track to cover it up.  I personally will be using cork because I like the look of it under Atlas track and will not be ballasting since I'm going for a more toy look over all for the layout.

Originally Posted by sinclair:

I have seen Eric's video on the Flexxbed, see photos of both here on the forums, and have worked with cork in N gauge in the past.  Here is my 2 bits, take it or leave it.  Flexxbed seems like a choice if you will be ballasting your track to cover it up.  I personally will be using cork because I like the look of it under Atlas track and will not be ballasting since I'm going for a more toy look over all for the layout.

I hadn't thought about the ballast, that's a good point. I am still on the fence about ballast as to whether to use it or not. Possibly something more for the original poster to think about as well.

Originally Posted by sinclair:

I have seen Eric's video on the Flexxbed, see photos of both here on the forums, and have worked with cork in N gauge in the past.  Here is my 2 bits, take it or leave it.  Flexxbed seems like a choice if you will be ballasting your track to cover it up.  I personally will be using cork because I like the look of it under Atlas track and will not be ballasting since I'm going for a more toy look over all for the layout.

why do you have to use ballast to cover it up?

Thank you everyone, this really helps.  I was favoring the Cork and Jim I love it painted grey.   I think I will probably stick with the Midwest Cork and try some ballast on a separate piece to see how it works out.  I did like the look of Eric's roadbed with the flexxbed and the ballast and he makes it look so easy to do.  

 

Has anyone had any problems with the cork shrinking or drying out?

 

Jo

Originally Posted by Jo:

Thank you everyone, this really helps.  I was favoring the Cork and Jim I love it painted grey.   I think I will probably stick with the Midwest Cork and try some ballast on a separate piece to see how it works out.  I did like the look of Eric's roadbed with the flexxbed and the ballast and he makes it look so easy to do.  

 

Has anyone had any problems with the cork shrinking or drying out?

 

Jo

Cork does dry out and becomes brittle over time, but that doesn't impact the track once it's laid. Basically, it means you can't re-use it if you do a track realignment. We're near the ocean and have relatively high humidity, plus salt air and haven't had problems with the cork swelling/shrinking over time. We also ballast our track (#16 construction sand) and I suspect that the bonding process seals everything up.

Originally Posted by pennsyk4:
Originally Posted by sinclair:

I have seen Eric's video on the Flexxbed, see photos of both here on the forums, and have worked with cork in N gauge in the past.  Here is my 2 bits, take it or leave it.  Flexxbed seems like a choice if you will be ballasting your track to cover it up.  I personally will be using cork because I like the look of it under Atlas track and will not be ballasting since I'm going for a more toy look over all for the layout.

why do you have to use ballast to cover it up?

Because from what I could see on Eric's video of Flexxbed, it's just an untextured grey color, which I find very unappealing visually. The cork has some texture to it and is more colorful so it looks a little more like rocks under the track without using any rocks, which I like.

Originally posted by Scott:

 

Jim,

I like the way your simple wetting and painting treatment turned out. Also like the way the sound board allows you to use the push pins to secure the cork. And with the deck combination of plywood+foam+sound board you're probabaly going to have the quietest layout on earth! Is that your intent? I would think plywood + foam would be enough. Just being nosey . . .

Scott

 

Scott, I know what you are saying, however I wanted some depth to the deck so I can sculpture some high banked rivers and ponds.  If the layout is too quiet, the trick will be to, at random spots, use long enough screws on the track to penetrate the all the way to the plywood.

 

Jim

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