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I've been working on a friend's PW Gang Car on and off for a month. It had some problems requiring parts, so we order them and he stops over when they arrive and I put them in. But the problems continue. I've worked on quite a few of these (including my own) and have never run into a roadblock like this. Main problem initially......it ran slow and erratic. So here's a list of what I've done to it:

New brushes and springs

Installed brush plate ball bearing (it was missing)

Cleaned the commutator

Cleaned out old lube and relubed

Cleaned and resoldered all contacts

Replaced the field magnet

Tested the commutator segments and they checked out ok, but I did put another armature in there to test it....no difference

 

Here's what I'm left with.....it runs MUCH slower than my own and at about 1/2 the rpms. Mine however is modified. I fabricated a second pickup roller which eliminates the typical Gang Car herky jerk over switches and UCS tracks (I'll save that for another thread). The second roller, though, would not account for it's slow operation. It also runs smoother in reverse than forward. I'm thinking maybe that part is due to a worn brass gear. But that wouldn't account for the slow rpms. The only other thing I can think of to replace (other than the gear) is the brush plate. I'm out of ideas, so if anyone out there has some possible suggestions, I'm all ears.

 

Roger

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As TrainsRMe suggests, its probably worn axle bushing.

This problem is very common on gang cars. The ends of the bushings wear, and the back of the drive wheel rubs against the die cast chassis. The issue usually only occurs while running in one direction.

There are a couple of ways to fix the issue:

1 - replace the bearings

2 - remove the wheel that is rubbing and put one or two 671M-23 washers on the axle, then reinstall the wheel.

3 - get a washer behind the wheel without removing it.

The gear is probably fine.

 

I cannot recommend trying to remove the wheels with screwdrivers. You are almost certainly going to bend the axles.

Your best bet would be option 3 - get a washer behind without removing the wheel.

 

Its possible to cut either a 671M-23 washer or a similar nylon washer to snap over the axle. Some folks report using either an E-ring, or horse shoe washer with good results.

 

These days I prefer to pull the wheels and replace the bearing on both sides.

CW,

I've always avoided working with wheels because I don't have a puller. Maybe I should get one. On old beaters, I have straigtened bent axles (that caused wobbly running) with the screwdriver technique. But those were beaters and if it didn't work out....no loss. 

 

Maybe I'll try your washer suggestion. I also have some e clips that hold PW trucks to the chassis. Might those work?

 

And thanks for your advice..

 

-Roger

I have a Lionel service puller. They are rather expensive.
In a recent thread, several folks posted that they are rather happy with the wheel puller #2 on this web site: Port lines.

 

I have no experience with it.

 

Should you get a puller?

Only you would have an idea on how often you would use it,

 

I enjoy repairing trains and have been doing so for quite some time. I feel that the money I invested in tools was some of the best money I spent.

 

Last edited by C W Burfle

Get a wheel puller. You never know when you may need it again. Remove the wheels and replace the axle bushings and worm wheel on the axle. Replace the lower armature bearing also. Make sure all the thrust bearings and washers are in place, and that there is a little up and down play in the armature when the brushplate is assembled. Lube everything up and run the unit. The brushplate would not need to be replaced unless after replacing the bottom armature bearing you observe the top of the armature wobbling in the brushplate bearing.

 

Larry

Well, for those of you who have been offering good advice, here's an update on the original situation:

 

I assumed after all I'd done, that it was bad bushings. As I don't have a puller or press, I found a chassis on the Bay that looked like it was in good shape ($6.99....nice). I had my friend buy it and he brought it over today. We cleaned it up and I swapped out the parts assuming.....finally.....the silly car would run correctly. Wrong. Just as bad or worse. Couldn't believe it. As a last resort, I took mine apart and compared. Well, lo and behold.....the trace bearing and most of the washers were missing from my friend's armature. He had told me that no one had ever worked on it. Apparently, that wasn't the case. Somehow that armature was removed and the parts fell off it. I never noticed it as I assumed (mistake) that all that stuff was there. I've never seen an armature with it all missing. So.....the whole armature moves up and down and the brushes must lose contact. Well, another parts order for Jeff and we'll have another go at it next week.

To be continued......

 

Roger

CW, on the #60 trolley, and the Picatinny Arsenal loco, there is a nylon bushing that is pressed into a hole in the chassis under the armature. It is mushroom shaped, with the stem of the mushroom in the threaded hole. This bushing keeps the armature from going too far down into the nylon bearing, preventing binding when running forward. Does the #50 gang car use the same bearing stop? I found this by accident when salvaging a trolley, and used it on the Picatinny Arsenal loco, which cured a similar problem. FWIW. 

 

quote:
CW, on the #60 trolley, and the Picatinny Arsenal loco, there is a nylon bushing that is pressed into a hole in the chassis under the armature. It is mushroom shaped, with the stem of the mushroom in the threaded hole. This bushing keeps the armature from going too far down into the nylon bearing, preventing binding when running forward. Does the #50 gang car use the same bearing stop? I found this by accident when salvaging a trolley, and used it on the Picatinny Arsenal loco, which cured a similar problem. FWIW. 



 

That little button is part #41-8 thrust bearing, they cost about forty cents.

 

The gang car does not use one.

It has a ball bearing race and washers between the armature and lower bearing (nylon or Oilite).

 

Some gang cars have a nylon bushing, others have a brass bushing.

My educated guess: The metal bushing models are older.

One could check by looking at a gang car with an original center horn brush plate

 

Last edited by C W Burfle
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