Skip to main content

I am handlaying code 148 rail.  When I drive the spike with pliers, it goes through the wood tie ok, but after penetrating a little bit of the plywood underneath, it resists and will bend if I try more force.  Will this problem be eliminated if I buy the special spike-driving pliers?  Or is my problem that I am not using soft roadbed underneath the ties?

 

Other question, what color (and type/brand) should I paint the ties for a ca 2000-2015 mainline look?

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I agree - if you are driving through ties into something hard, like plywood, you will bend spikes, hurt your hand, and create a noise source like you cannot imagine.  Model railroads should be quiet, except for clickety-clack.  Even Homasote with ballast can present problems.

 

Tie color has been consistent with wood and creosote - ranges from rich brown to light grey, depending.  But recent ties are concrete, and they look a bit different.

"Other question, what color (and type/brand) should I paint the ties for a ca 2000-2015 mainline look?"

  

    Possibly some kind of concrete color or maybe a dark wood color depending on the material used ? I'd look for photos of the area you want to represent and see what you can see. If it's nearby going to see it in person is even better.....daveB

Thanks Rex.  Here's a shot of the UP mainline here is Houston.  Pretty different, and not at all the same geometry as the wooden ties I am using.
 
 
 
Originally Posted by rex desilets:

If you must lay ties on plywood, pre-drill spikes holes. A dodge I've seen is to chuck a (short) length of .020 stainless wire into a Dremel and pre-drill spike holes that way.

On your second question, here's an example. UP trckage near Sacramento.

 

IMG_1461

 

IMG_2705

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_2705

 

      Martin, 

       I decided to use hardboard with the rough side up for my layout. The spikes stick

   to it fairly well. I also ended up gluing the ties down first. My pike is small so cutting

   up all of the hardboard to fit wasn't too much of an issue. A small set of pliers is

   all I used and it does take a little bit of practice. If you have a spur or siding that 

   you can practice on you might try that first. I didn't really like laying the

   track that much at first but after a lot of bent spikes and curse words I wish

   I had more room so I could keep adding track. It actually get's to be kind of fun

   after a while.  

     One thing I forgot to mention is that it's a little tough to get the spikes all

   the way down on the tie plates with just pliers. I ended up doing a section the 

   best I could with the pliers and then going back over it with a small punch and 

   hammer.

       

Oscalecode125

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Oscalecode125
Last edited by Jeoff

"Anybody come up with a tool to center rail in proper gauge on the ties when hand laying?"

 

    Track gauges can be centered on the ties as one works down the line. I've made my own that are the width of the ties so it's even easier to place the rails. Cut some plexiglas rectangles to the width of your ties and then saw a couple of rail kerfs in them at proper gauge, takes a few minutes to make a handful of them.....DaveB 

Originally Posted by daveb:

"Anybody come up with a tool to center rail in proper gauge on the ties when hand laying?"

 

    Track gauges can be centered on the ties as one works down the line. I've made my own that are the width of the ties so it's even easier to place the rails. Cut some plexiglas rectangles to the width of your ties and then saw a couple of rail kerfs in them at proper gauge, takes a few minutes to make a handful of them.....DaveB 

Yes.  If you're going to hand lay rail, a little DIY gauge, jig, widget is just part of the game.

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×