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I got my Challenger 30-1194-1  out of the box and placed the battery in it as i have done for the last couple of years for my Christmas layout Hooked up my TIU to Fixed 1 and set my transformer at 18 VAC as i have done previously and let it set for an hour to make sure the battery was charged. When I tried to start it up via the hand held the first time i tried it recognized the engine and allowed me to use the # 3 button to start it up but the volume is extremely low. it would allow me to move the engine in forward and reverse using the thumb wheel I only tried it up to 3 SMPH. I checked power at the track 18.0 VAC. I  checked power on the battery with track power applied 8.4 and unhooked is 6.4 VAC is the battery bad?  when i powered it back up now it does not recognize the engine and will not allow me add it. Any and all suggestions   greatly appreciated.   Sam

 

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Sounds like a battery related problem:

1. - is the battery the original, white battery?  If so, throw it away.

2.  The purpose of the battery  is to save settings to the engine's memory after power is turned off.  One curtail setting being the engine's ID#.  If the id # is lost, you have to  delete the engine from the remote and add it again.

3.  Low volume can be increased while the engine is 'active', that is powered on.  Try and increase the volume with the #2 button on the remote.  If that does not work, you most probably have either a speaker (least likely) or a bad audio amplifier.

4.  For test purposes, you can install an alkaline battery but do not leave it installed.  Either purchase a new Green battery or a BCR and install.

bruce

WestMDRR,

    It is really a Super Capacitor named BCR, I have never worn one out, mine have been in for over 10 years now, once in a while you can get a faulty one like Gun Runner John purchased.  Take the Battery out and replace it with the BCR, they last almost for ever.  The draw back is you must let your engine in neutral setting on your powered tracks, for about 5 sec each time you start your engine, especially if the engine has been off the tracks for a while, to charge the BCR for usage. Further on initial installation, let the engine set for about 10 minutes with the track powered up, and all works perfectly from that point on.  I use them in all my P2 engines and IMO they are a mandatory item for all P1 engine.  I know Marty is not overly fond of them, it's about the only thing we disagree on, when it come to our Hobby.

PCRR/Dave

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Personally, I prefer the batteries.  However, when I got tpo many engines, so that some didn't run for months, it became harder to have them charged, so when they started dying after 10 years of use, I went to supercaps on my PS2 rather than buy new batteries.  Supercaps do have operational issues that aren't present when you have a battery.

Barry Broskowitz posted:

I've just started using 8.4 volt Lithium Ion batteries in 5 volt PS2 engines. The changing rate, I've been told, is compatible with the charging circuit in PS2 engines.

I would be nervous using the Li Ion batteries for safety reasons.I'm assuming they have an internal PCB (protection circuit board).

Last edited by willygee

On several occasions that rarely happen, cutting power shortly after powering up, so that the supercap can't charge up, apparenly causes the ID# in the loco to get scrambled.  Simply delete loco from one of your remotes and then re-add it.  This will reset the ID# in the loco, and other remotes will never know this happened.

A scenario:  A car on a train is derailed, but not shorting.  I may have turned off power to that block to keep layout running, and then closed down the layout, forgetting to re-rail the car.  Or, while layout is off, tiny fingers cause a derailment.  I leave layout a few days; supercaps drain.  I power up the layout and the block, hit startup, and start train moving, all within a few seconds.  Derailed car shorts.  Breaker opens.  When derailment fixed and breaker reset, loco can't be accessed.  Apply the cure above...  It works.

I also had this happen once with a PS2 loco with a battery that had been idle for weeks, with a 12-year old recently deceased battery.

All in all, given that having 27 DCS locos, some don't get frequent use, I'm glad I switched all PS2s to supercaps.

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