how do you repair the coupling on trucks

One simple method is to wrap a small rubber band around the neck of the coupler.  The tiny bands used on orthodontic braces are ideal.

Bruce

Ken,

This info. may help if your problem coupler is a Lionel Post W.W. II and maybe some newer types:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=694

Ralph

It would help if you tell us what type of coupler you are having trouble with.

The dental bands work well for closing, but not for the coupler to still work with an uncoupling track. Maybe I haven't found the right ones yet.

 Really have to adapt for the coupler make &/or year, but.... 

Taking off, or holding the couplers pin arm open, and slightly bending the arm(only) up works most of the time. Over tweeking can cause the pin to miss its hole, or not latch right on some. Removing the axle nearest the coupler helps ease work sometimes.

 Ive heated all plastic ones. Very risky, didn't always work out.

Putting a stronger coil spring in. Especially type around the attaching screw, and/or washers/shims to compress the existing one more.

Some PW have a flat spring, strung across the truck frame, and riveted to a plate that also forms the pins arm. Those are tricky and brittle to tweek but you can.

But it could also be the jaw's knuckle's latching edge, or pin tip/mount too. The pivot is a hollow rivet. Drill its flair off, remove, inspect, replace. (there is also a spring in there to catch, or it's built right onto the knuckle itself.)

Or clip the "thumbtack" off, and drill into the pins hole straight up trough it all. Then you can use a prototypical, old fashioned, gravity held, drop in, pin.

If this is the truck, then you can either try and bend the uncoupling armature as has been suggested, or replace it.

Larry

Sorry for not posting enough info, I know better.  It is a Lionel Husky Stack.

Thank You

Ken M

This is the truck for the Husky Stack cars. I believe there is a spring that may need to be stretched or replaced. The coupler design seems to be similar to the postwar passenger trucks, which had similar problems. I cannot locate a parts view for the newer truck though.

Larry

  I like those, but the poor de-burring of some edges makes a few of mine hang up a bit.

   I remember having filed on an edge of the bottom plate where it turns up. But these are delicate sensitive rigs, be careful. Also edges gives it a crusty feeling here & there. I think a shot of Boeing-Boeshield T-9 spray dry lube would work wonders.

   Under the finger release lever is a horizontal spring that does all the work. The lever pushes on to the plate, which is held in a loose wedge lock, and sensitive to both horz. & vert movement. Jiggling, mild prodding, & cycling may reseat the plate if its "hung up". Or maybe it was hung up & got tweaked? Hope not.

 If it is closed 100%, its still likely the knuckle though. A notch on the back side of the turning knuckle jaw catches the finger levers tip, till you pull it away by finger, or plate. Might be a pin on the end of the lever, but I haven't had any really break, so I've not popped one open yet.

But I'm thoroughly convinced its pretty much what you'll find despite never having done it!   

Thank you for your help

Ken M

I just repaired one of these for a friend. Next time I will just order a new one. The rivets holding the coupler to the bar had sheared off. I was able to disassemble it and epoxy the coupler back on the shaft. Before reinstalling it on the truck I found the shaft that locks the knuckle in place didn't have enough reach so I have to file off some material off the back of it. Now it works fine. 

Anyone think about how many parts this truck is made of? Well over two dozen.

Pete

I use small black cable ties and wrap them around the coupler arm,

cut off the access. If I ever want to remove them a simple snip with

the sidecutters. Have had to do this with many MTH rolling stock as the couplers come open for no reason.

Popi, the cable tie or rubber band trick won't work on these couplers. The locking mechanism is behind the knuckle like a coil coupler, not under it like a magnetic coupler.

You can see it in the pic above. You pull back on the little lever, not down to open the coupler.

Pete

I epoxy mine shut if they fail a few times......I have no electro uncouplers on the layout.....so no need for them to work with one.