Skip to main content

I am encountering intermittent chuffing sync with the sound system; creating missed chuff cycles as it is running.  Despite ever effort in locating the mechanical switch that triggers the sound sync, I have not been able to find one.  There is no smoke chuffing sync, just constant smoke for this model.

Any information on how to correct this would be greatly appreciated.

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Right John.  That unit does have a fan driven smoke unit.   He has to locate the cherry switch.  Without the engine in front of me I would tell him to pull and reseat the R2LC then reprogram the engine with the AUX code number 74.  The fact his smoke is not chuffing, I would also go for the cherry switch.  Next I would open the tender and reseat the AD 20A IR receiver, the power board and audio boards.  If the engine has sat, he may get lucky with AUX 74.

Thanks everyone for your time and suggestion with this problem.  

This is correct, this is a constant smoke unit so my apologies for any confusion.  It is strickly a miss in the sound of the chuff.  The problem occurs with and without battery in tender.  I am working with it on a straight section of track on my work bench and it is making the same miss chuffs as it does when running on my entire layout.  It also seems I am getting random additional chuffs, such as two right in a row.  It sounds as if a switch has some random chatter if that helps explain the situation.  A couple of years ago I took three conventional trians and converted them to a CAB 1 system.  In this case I placed a magnet on one of the wheels to trigger the sensor.  If the sensor was not placed correctly, I would get the same random chuff symptom.  Not knowing the method this train uses to trigger the sound card, it has this same kind of effect.

I did connect, when I originally expereinced the problem, to the tender from my 6-11103 Southern PS-4 and it too presented the same symptons.  I have not had a chance to try some of the other suggestions stated earlier.  Over the next couple of days I plan to work on this problem.  I will let all of you know my findings. Thanks again for all of your suggestions!!

Gents,

My apologies for taking so long to get back to all of you with updates, but with work and travel, I just recently had a chance to get back to this problem.  Well, as things seem to go, it appears I have corrected the chuffing issue, as far as I can tell under the current curcumstances, but have created another problem.

Despite checking every wire and connection that I touched during the original problem, now the engine runs out of control when initiating a command from my Legacy controller; starts from 0 and goes to high speed.  Any suggestion on this would be helpful.  I have removed the boards, checked wires, run the train with a longer antenna and without the casing, but still this problem persists.

Regarding the chuffing problem, it appears that the switch that triggers from the main drive wheel had become caked with grease from the worm gear box.  After removing the grease, I did a continuity check with my meter as a rotated the wheels manually through a complete cycle.  It seemed to work.  Now as I try and put everything back together, despite it racing off out of control, it sounds as if the chuffing has been corrected.

I was hoping the current problem was a pinched wire or a connection I forget to make correctly, but despite taking the train apart three times, I can find nothing wrong, but the run away train problem still persists.  I did the "AUX" 74 program process in hopes that it would correct the problem but no luck.

Starting to regret my efforts in attempting the chuffing issue......Help please

Sound like it is not getting the command signal.  What does it do in conventional?  I have this engine and have had it apart a couple of times.  Make sure you did not ground the handrail antenna when removing and replacing the shell.  Swap the R2LC with a spare if you have one. Good luck!

Bruce

 

If it takes off only after you crack the throttle, then it's either the sensor that Carl mentioned above or the DCDS motor driver.  Check all the wiring between the sensor board and the DCDS to start and make sure the magnet ring is secure.  If the ring is slipping on the flywheel but not broken, you can push it up to the rim and use CA adhesive to glue it into place.  The gray ring below on the flywheel is the magnet ring.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0

Gents,

 

Looks like you are on the right path.  What I found is the plug receiver on the PCB-PCB1-OFA had come detached from the three traces on the PCB.  After soldering the plug back to the board I could get continuity to two sides of the sensor on the PCB that is triggered by the magnet, but the middle trace I could not.  I confirmed from the plug onwards to the connection to the controller board is OK.  I removed the plug and noticed that the center trace is broken.  After trying to repair it I assumed it would be easier to order a new one.  I just check Lionel and from what I can tell this is no longer available.  So I ask everyone, where can I get a replacement?

Good news as I tried to correct this, I arranged a static support where I could run the engine while stationary.  Can't tell how it will do running slow, but the chuff seems to be triggering correctly now.  Also, despite the additional obstacles, I am learning a lot more about the various components of the engine thanks to everyone's help.

Thank you very much to everyone who has taken the time.

Randy

Southern Randy posted:

Gents,

 

Looks like you are on the right path.  What I found is the plug receiver on the PCB-PCB1-OFA had come detached from the three traces on the PCB.  After soldering the plug back to the board I could get continuity to two sides of the sensor on the PCB that is triggered by the magnet, but the middle trace I could not.  I confirmed from the plug onwards to the connection to the controller board is OK.  I removed the plug and noticed that the center trace is broken.  After trying to repair it I assumed it would be easier to order a new one.  I just check Lionel and from what I can tell this is no longer available.  So I ask everyone, where can I get a replacement?

It's available - check here  Lionel has a flat $10 shipping - so perhaps order some smoke wicks and a resistor or two, traction tires s etc. Look at the mountain class of your engine for the same parts on the link that I put above a few posts back.

Good news as I tried to correct this, I arranged a static support where I could run the engine while stationary.  Can't tell how it will do running slow, but the chuff seems to be triggering correctly now.  Also, despite the additional obstacles, I am learning a lot more about the various components of the engine thanks to everyone's help.

Thank you very much to everyone who has taken the time.

Good work. This small stuff is intense. I need magnifiers and such. The #30 wire that John suggested can be ordered. Your hobby shop may have it.

Randy

 

Gents,

I wanted to let everyone know I did get a new board from Lionel and the problem has been corrected.  I am still getting used to the Lionel web site.  Where this model train is pretty much no longer available for spare parts under it's model number, i was able to pull up another engine I had that had the same board to find the part.  The good news is that everything is back to full operation and I have now confirmed that the chuffing has also been corrected.

I really appreciate eveyone's assistance with this problem and helping me gain some more knowledge about these engines.

Thanks to Everyone

Southern Randy posted:

Gents,

I wanted to let everyone know I did get a new board from Lionel and the problem has been corrected.  I am still getting used to the Lionel web site.  Where this model train is pretty much no longer available for spare parts under it's model number, i was able to pull up another engine I had that had the same board to find the part.  The good news is that everything is back to full operation and I have now confirmed that the chuffing has also been corrected.

I really appreciate eveyone's assistance with this problem and helping me gain some more knowledge about these engines.

Thanks to Everyone

So, it was the flywheel sensor board that you replaced?

Good news that you up and running again!

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×