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Hi,

 

I was running my k-line locomotive yesterday and it stopped, then smoke curled from the shell, so i quickly cut power to it and pulled it from the track.  Took it to the local train store and they said it was too new to work on.  Is there anyone out there that will work on these engines?  I live in Washington state.

 

Thank you,

 

john

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The K-Line Alco FA (the smaller 027 version) is what I believe you are talking about. There are 4 possible variations of this locomotive.

 

1) The early ones have no added detail like metal handrails or steps. These details are molded into the body. These had no horn or sounds. Two motors in the powered unit with a non-powered dummy unit.

 

2) K-Line upgraded the engine shell, replacing the molded on details with additional metal handrails, decorative metal horn, real metal steps.

 

These upgraded units came in several variations:

 

Two powered units with a larger electronic e-unit board to control all 4 motors of both engines from the lead unit via a tether cord.

 

At differing points, these units came with a horn or with K-Line's "Real Sounds." The sound boards were located in the trailing A unit, with the e-unit in the lead connected to the lead via the tether.

 

Without going through my K-Line catalogs (the Legacy site does not list them all) I do know the UP Alco FA came in the early version I mentioned above... the paint and graphic on this one are not as nice.

 

I also know it came as a upgraded powered A with a dummy A that had a horn in it. Much nicer paint and decoration on these. It was cataloged as a separate AA combination also with a caboose. And also in one of the 027 passenger sets, with a single powered A in the set. An additional dummy unit was available as an add-on. I can't recall whether the UP Alco's ever came with 'Real Sounds.'

 

I would suspect the problem you have is in one of the circuit boards. If you had removed the shell immediately after the incident, you would have been able to smell where the burning smell came from. As is, you might be able to see any damage to the circuit boards. Also K-Line used ordinary masking tape to cover the soldered wire connections inside the locomotive. Masking tape gets brittle over time and your problem could have been due to this.

 

I run the lower end K-Line locos like the Alcos, S-2's, MP-15's and RDC's. In almost 25 years, I've only had one motor go bad and only one circuit board reverse unit, which was my fault when I was making custom alterations to the unit. 

 

If you have a DC power pack, you could test the motors with direct DC current to see if they still work. If it was the motors, you will need the K-Line motor from Brasseur's (who bought all the K-Line parts when K-Line folded). Although Lionel used a near identical Mabuchi motor, the tooth count on the first motor gear is different from the Lionel one.

 

A standard Lionel reverse unit circuit board will work to replace a K-Line one (at least on the 2-motor only version), although the wire leads are different colors. The 4-motored K-Line Alcos have a larger e-unit board. I'm sure Lionel has a larger more powerful circuit board like the K-Line one, but I don't know what it is. Brasseur's had both K-Line circuit boards at one point.

 

And I just see now, that Brasseur's is now a sponsor of this forum, so you can check their site for any parts you might need.

 

If the problem is with the horn or 'Real Sounds', the lead A unit locomotive should still operate.

 

Knowing the precise model number of your engines would help out.

Last edited by brianel_k-lineguy

If you have a failed or shorted board, and that sounds right, you will need a new reversing

unit. Fortunately, that's not a big, nor expensive, deal, and I'm talking about do-it-yourself. 

 

Dallee Electronics sells affordable new electronic (and yours is electronic) reversing units

("e-units"), and I believe that a horn is available(?). Also, Modern Toy Train Parts has 

a selection of boards that can help you out. The locos are simple, and everything comes

with instructions. (Essentially, it's AC from the track to the board, and DC out to the

motors.) 

 

Check their websites.

 

 

First step is to test the motors without being connected to the reverse board.  A 9V battery is fine to give them a run, we just want to see if they spin and aren't shorted or dead. 

 

I've had a couple of the K-Line motors in the trucks bite the dust, one really stunk up the joint.  You should be able to see some evidence of damage if you have a burnt smell. 

 

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