K-Line Mikado with no run/program switch

The "W" at the end of the number indicates that the model is conventional with smoke and "W"histle.  The TMCC versions had "CC" at the end of the number.

Here is the catalog page for the conventional version:

http://www.legacykline.com/app..._oem_sku=K3686-4501W

and here is the TMCC version:

http://www.legacykline.com/app...oem_sku=K3686-4501CC

Unless your Mikado has had an electronics upgrade, it can't be programmed for TMCC.

The Prog/Run switch on my Mikado is directly across from the smoke On/Off switch.

Tony

Like Bob says this engine did not come with TMCC. If someone added it the switch may be inside. Not sure how the the repair shop could have "reprogramed" otherwise.

Pete

I must have gotten confused, I was looking at several engines, but this is the one I really wanted. My wife gave me the painting of a boy overlooking his 4501 at Christmas. I have the "tshirt" and now I have the engine. I will covert to TMCC with Super Chuffer and the world will be right. Thanks.

Quizshow904 posted:

I must have gotten confused, I was looking at several engines, but this is the one I really wanted. My wife gave me the painting of a boy overlooking his 4501 at Christmas. I have the "tshirt" and now I have the engine. I will covert to TMCC with Super Chuffer and the world will be right. Thanks.

Be aware this engine came with a puffer unit so a super chuffer will require a fan smoke unit. Add up the bill to convert to TMCC with synchronized smoke. You might find it will cost more to convert this engine than a TMCC version would cost.

Pete

I already have the engine and the engineering task of converting is what I enjoy.

FWIW, I use MTH smoke units for these jobs.  I remove the two 16 ohm resistors and replace them with one 20 ohm unit closest to the stack outlet.  Space the resistor about 1/8" to 3/16" from the PCB, use the pulled apart braided Lionel wick, and make sure there's a good airflow from the fan chamber over the resistor to the stack.  The resistor should not be directly under the stack, but rather just offset a bit toward the fan chamber.

I find that I can mount the MTH smoke unit in the K-Line with a 1/16 flat plate over the old mounts for the puffer.  I typically have to take a little material off the posts on the smoke unit and the locomotive screw post to make it all work.  The goal is to have the brass nipple to mate with the shell and require no extra extensions.

I think I have the MTH smoke unit model numbers from before. Now for a little engineering.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

FWIW, I use MTH smoke units for these jobs.  I remove the two 16 ohm resistors and replace them with one 20 ohm unit closest to the stack outlet.  Space the resistor about 1/8" to 3/16" from the PCB, use the pulled apart braided Lionel wick, and make sure there's a good airflow from the fan chamber over the resistor to the stack.  The resistor should not be directly under the stack, but rather just offset a bit toward the fan chamber.

I find that I can mount the MTH smoke unit in the K-Line with a 1/16 flat plate over the old mounts for the puffer.  I typically have to take a little material off the posts on the smoke unit and the locomotive screw post to make it all work.  The goal is to have the brass nipple to mate with the shell and require no extra extensions.

Why?  There is no need to do this.  I leave them alone and run the PS-1 directly off the R2LC Smoke output keeping the smoke switch in line.  Let the PS-1 board do the switching between 16ohms and 32 ohms based on voltage.  Works great. G

George, I was talking about the PS/2 smoke unit.  The PS/1 smoke unit won't fit in many of the smaller K-Line steamers, the rear end is too long.  The PS/2 smoke unit is much smaller.  Since I have to keep room for stuff like the Super-Chuffer, etc. I use the smaller smoke unit.

Ok thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

GGG posted:

gunrunnerjohn posted:

FWIW, I use MTH smoke units for these jobs.  I remove the two 16 ohm resistors and replace them with one 20 ohm unit closest to the stack outlet.  Space the resistor about 1/8" to 3/16" from the PCB, use the pulled apart braided Lionel wick, and make sure there's a good airflow from the fan chamber over the resistor to the stack.  The resistor should not be directly under the stack, but rather just offset a bit toward the fan chamber.

I find that I can mount the MTH smoke unit in the K-Line with a 1/16 flat plate over the old mounts for the puffer.  I typically have to take a little material off the posts on the smoke unit and the locomotive screw post to make it all work.  The goal is to have the brass nipple to mate with the shell and require no extra extensions.

Why?  There is no need to do this.  I leave them alone and run the PS-1 directly off the R2LC Smoke output keeping the smoke switch in line.  Let the PS-1 board do the switching between 16ohms and 32 ohms based on voltage.  Works great. G

That's what I do also. Works great and is less hassle.

PS2 smoke units guys!