LEGACY Engine Sounds Issue

 IIRC Lionel changed the chuff software on early Legacy engines and without a 9v battery in them when the tender loses power it doesn't automatically restart chuffing as on a TMCC engines like when it runs over a switch. Think there was mention of the software being changed on newer Legacy engines to eliminate this issue so they worked like TMCC engines of old do and restart chuffing automatically.

You do realize there are two volume settings, try AUX1, VOL+ a few times and see if your engine sounds and chuff don't come back.

 

When you scroll through the engine info on your CAB-2, are you sure that your sounds are set to "Legacy Rail Sounds (LRS)?" I'm not sure if "RS" or "RS5" will give you the full range of sounds that "LRS" will for a LEGACY-equipped locomotive.

Dirty track will also cause this, as I know from 1st hand experience.  I was having sound issues, but they went all away after I cleaned the track.

So, did you fix it?

 

Thanks for all the suggestions.  Sorry for the delayed reply - was up in Cleveland last night watching the Browns discover new ways to fail.  Just getting back to the train tonight. 

 

Put a battery in the GP7. Still goes into conventional when the track powers up (yes, LEGACY is on 1st).  On the CAB-2 under the info the control is LEG and the sound is LRS.  Also, the light in the engine's cab is out but flicks on for a fraction of a second every half second or so.  None of the CAB-2 controls work.

 

Tried shutting everything down, checked connections between CAB-2 & the track, Z4000 & the track, & tightened the CAB-2 antenna which was slightly loose. Powered everything up again. Number boards light up, cab light flickers as before. It seems like the CAB-2 thinks it's controlling the engine (it "accelerates" when the throttle's opened) but no sound or movement.

 

I also cleaned the track again, though I'd given it a basic cleaning a week ago when I disassembled it upstairs.  Lionel said they ran it for 2 hours after fixing the smoke unit 2 weeks ago.

 

I'll try things w/the PE Berk now & recheck the list. I'll be back shortly, & thanks again.

 

- Neal

 

Pretty much same deal w/the PE Berkshire as before - everything seems to work but the "Chuff." I can post a vide in the AM if that'd be helpful. 

Do you have LHS or a club or friend's house you can take your locomotives and Legacy base and Cab-2 to?  When having issues, a friend and I will go back and forth between our layouts to test locomotives and the command items when tracking down an issue so that we aren't going after the wrong thing.  This is how I found out I had a bad TMCC base when I got started in command.

Before you do anything else is the outlet your using to plug in your legacy base grounded and I don't mean the white wire to the outlet. You have to have the ground wire grounded to the ground on the outlet and it has to be done in the breaker box this way .I own a 100 year old house way back then none of the outlets where done that way.. If your using a power strip it has to have the ground on it . This stuff makes a huge difference .

Here's the link to the video of the PE Berkshire: https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be  Not sure how to put the video in the post yet.

Jojofry - my house is 10 years old, so I assume it would be in compliance with any electrical codes until 2004-5.  The LEGACY Base, Z4000, and Christmas tree are plugged into a 3-prong 3-way splitter which is plugged into a heavier duty indoor/outdoor 3-prong extension cord, which is plugged into the wall.  The TV, speakers, & entertainment center are next to the base & transformer, and the power cords to those electronics are supported over the track that loops around them.  they cross generally perpendicular to the track.  I know you can get interference running track above track, not sure if the same would hold for power cables over (but not parallel to) the track.

That having been said, I have had issue with certain plugs not having power (mainly in the kitchen).  The wall outlet that things are plugged into IS one of these - the top plug doesn't seem to work, while the bottom does.   If there are any actual electricians on the board, I'd love to hear your thoughts on what's going on.  Several in the kitchen have seemed to work only intermittently (& usually not), including the one my internet router was plugged into.  No breaker has tripped.  After removing the faceplate (and throwing the breaker to keep myself form getting electrocuted0 all wires seem tight to the receptacle.  Bought a new receptacle & was thinking of replacing to see if it works.  Any other suggestions would be appreciated.  FWIW, the outlet in the dining room on the opposite side of the same wall works fine * is located within feet of the problem outlets. 

Are the outlets on a wall switch?  I ask because the add on to my house (The room the layout is in.) the top plug of every outlet is on the same switch as the wall lamp.  So it took me a week to figure out why things plugged in sometimes worked and sometimes didn't.  Once I took a break and looked for a pattern did I notice that the outlet were half switched.