Skip to main content

My Acela (and other engines) at lowest speed setting will stop at the same point under 3 fluorescent lights I installed under the 2nd level platform.  (Video #1). I then reversed the engine and it happened again. (Video 32).  For the longest time, I just couldn't figure out why this was happening.  Then a few of my command switches went dumb.  I took advice I found searching this forum and ran an earth ground wire under that stretch of the track and thought maybe that was my problem under the lights as well  since the engine would pick up a signal sometimes when I put my hand over the top of the engine.  The earth ground wire fixed my command switch problem but not the stall under the lights.  If I run engines at just a slightly higher  speed they never stall.  When stalled he engine continues to receive power and I think some legacy signal because it doesn't revert to conventional mode, and as soon as I unplug the lights,  one click on the throttle and it starts to move.  I guess I have 3 options:  never run the engines at the slowest speed under the platform; swap out the fluorescent  lights for LEDs or just keep it dark.  I like the lighting effect, and running engines slow under the platform.   Any suggestions as to what I can do to eliminate the stall phenomenon so I can keep the fluorescents and run my engines slow under the platform?  Thanks,

Acela starts, passes under fluorescent lights-1

Acela stops under fluorescent lights-2

 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I had similar problems to what you are experiencing. I did not consider that it may have been the florescent lights. I added the ground plane but still occasionally had a problem with engines stalling. I have converted these all to LED lights a few months back. I never thought about it till I read your post, but since doing the conversion the problem seems to be gone. Thank you for posting.

Ray

You could get the LED strip lights and a wall wart power supply to go with them from ebay. They are sticky back and would just stick to the plywood where your lights are now. You can get many different colors these days, cool white, bright white, warm white, etc. Plenty to choose from these days. You can also cut them to length, in sets of 3 lights, to get how ever much light you want. The reels are marked where to cut.

As far as the sticky back, I got a full reel of double LEDs (600 instead of 300 per roll) and stuck them to the bottom of my layout for light while i am under there (I use it for storage too) a couple of years ago. They are still stuck right where I put them (no sagging or loose areas) and working just fine.

Ed,

   You hit the nail on the head, get rid of your florescent lights, install new LED's.  I did this 2 years ago on my Christmas layout, it almost fully eliminates any Legacy control problems.  However remember some Legacy Engines can interfere with DCS signals, so not everything is cured by just replacing your florescent lights.

PCRR/Dave

My Legacy GP9 NP, interferes with my 1st Generation DCS P2 Street Car signal, if the Legacy Engine passes to close to the P2 Street Car, when giving Legacy Commands to the GP9, and I will have to restart the auto function of the P2 Street Car when it happens.

DSCN1539

Attachments

Images (1)
  • DSCN1539

RTR12,

As far as the sticky back, I got a full reel of double LEDs (600 instead of 300 per roll) and stuck them to the bottom of my layout for light while i am under there (I use it for storage too) a couple of years ago. They are still stuck right where I put them (no sagging or loose areas) and working just fine.

Wow, what a great idea, I never thought about that. I have the 300 light rolls and will put a couple of those strips down below the layout and light them up with the SC-2. Thank you for the pointer.

GRJ, 

I did as you suggested and pulled the ballasts and installed the LED tubes, got a decent price on EBAY for both the 4 footers and for the 8ft.

Ray

Last edited by Rayin"S"

There are lots of 12v LED reels and associated power supplies and connectors on the bay and river sites.  The exterior type has a translucent cover that may be suitable for this application as it looks like a ceiling fixture cover when cut to short lengths.  Solder the power wires on.  Avoid the solderless clips.   You can pick the color of the lights from cool white (6000K) to warm white (3400K) and get a dimmer to control brightness.  The only issue I have had with the LED reels is the adhesive which is not strong enough to adhere well to Homasote.  Sticks to smooth plywood such as what your photo shows.

+1 on interference problems coming from EL illumination.

Ahhh, finding threads with answers -

@santaFeFan, would an earth ground wire up on telephone poles(elevated) near the track block the interfering signals from the lighting?

I recall a club layout thread where they thought a layout next to the Lionel TMCC/Command was interfering with the signal. It turned out that it was the fluorescent lighting. They installed the earth ground wire on telephone poles near and higher than the track in the affected area. Solved the problem.

I doubt that would work if those are EL panels as Jon supposed in his answer.    Fluorescent  and EL are two totally different technologies.  I tinkered with EL lighting, and it's very noisy electrically.  When I tried it in my Phantom, it totally screwed up the TMCC signal.  Even when it was in the baggage car and not in the locomotive, it still caused problems.

Rayin"S" posted:

RTR12,

As far as the sticky back, I got a full reel of double LEDs (600 instead of 300 per roll) and stuck them to the bottom of my layout for light while i am under there (I use it for storage too) a couple of years ago. They are still stuck right where I put them (no sagging or loose areas) and working just fine.

Wow, what a great idea, I never thought about that. I have the 300 light rolls and will put a couple of those strips down below the layout and light them up with the SC-2. Thank you for the pointer.

GRJ, 

I did as you suggested and pulled the ballasts and installed the LED tubes, got a decent price on EBAY for both the 4 footers and for the 8ft.

Ray

If it's long enough to cover your layout's underside, I would try just one reel of the 300 first. It might be enough. My layout is 16' long and the reels are 5 meters which was just right for me. The double reel of 600 is pretty bright, but for me it is just about right. I think they are bright white too, IIRC.

I put a toggle switch for the lights in the layout fascia, right where I board my mechanic's stool to go under the layout. It has been a nice addition for finding things and also working on things down there. Good luck and I hope it works well for you.

You might try putting the ground wire above the track.  Below the track is the worst place for it as the outside rail signal interferes with it and engine antennas on on the top of the engine and the handrails for steamers.    Probably won't make a difference but worth a shot before spending the money on lighting.

The old advice about putting the ground under or next to the track is just that, old advice.  According to one of Jon Z's engineers who I had a long email conversation with the best place is above the track.  We at the NJ HiRailers either put it on the ceiling of a tunnel or on telephone poles.  Made a world of difference. 

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×