no actual electrical un coupler in operation and rarely touch the coupler control on the handheld legacy but darn thing keeps dropping all the cars, it is the tender that does it??
suggestions
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Try this link to a earlier post. Very informative.
Some information would be nice. LIONEL CAR??
sorry about that
LIONEL 0-8-0 STEAM LOCOMOTIVE WITH TENDER
72-8700-250, it is of course the tender coupler that keeps opening
i have only had it for couple of months, it was new in box when i got it from dealer
First step is to unplug the coupler inside the tender. If it still releases, you have a mechanical issue. If not, it's electrical.
For electrical issues. a 1uf 50V cap across the coupler will fix it many times.
For mechanical, you need to either replace it or refer to the other thread for some of the fixes suggested there.
John, check your email.
72-8700-250,
that is the part number for the whole set??
Remove the coupler and send it to boxcar bill or gunrunnerjohn for a tuneup. The latching surface needs to be filed.
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
First step is to unplug the coupler inside the tender. If it still releases, you have a mechanical issue. If not, it's electrical.
For electrical issues. a 1uf 50V cap across the coupler will fix it many times.
For mechanical, you need to either replace it or refer to the other thread for some of the fixes suggested there.
Unless it is legacy. G
Originally Posted by pelago:
72-8700-250,
that is the part number for the whole set??
That is not the part number of the engine. It should be a 6-xxxxx on the box it came in.
Is this a Legacy, TMCC, RC, or conventional engine? G
Attachments
http://www.lionel.com/media/se...ents/72-8080-250.pdf
thats it, mine has dif number because it is burlington route
went to box and all it had was a 6-26700 on it
i believe that this sat on a shelf for a while i bought it last year in dec
and it is tmcc
My previous procedure to localize it still remains valid. 
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
My previous procedure to localize it still remains valid.
have to start looking thru junk pile, probably got that cap or one close to it, rebuilt a linear amp and it had tons of caps on the final tubes and had to replace most of them so i bought a grab bag of caps
Actually, I doubt it. The cap in question is a non-polarized cap, not something you typically find in that kind of application.
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Actually, I doubt it. The cap in question is a non-polarized cap, not something you typically find in that kind of application.
Interesting, is the model actually 28700? That is RS 5.0, I would have thought the electrical noise suppression is already done. Maybe not.
As John stated, you still disconnect and see if it opens on its own which tends to be a mechanical weak spring. Usually disassemble and stretch spring works. G
