Lionel turbine steps

I am presuming you have enough of a nub that the rear step will snap into, but would eventually fall of, if tried to run it that way.  If there is enough of the nub left, just use JB Weld, between the two, (frame-nub & new steps).  Works wonders, as I had the same problem with one of my 2020's.  I have three 2020's and a 681 turbine, and one 2020 had the rear step problem, solved by using JB Weld.

I have replaced those rear steps on many turbines.

Often there is a small piece of the old step / apron attached to the frame.

I just pry it off carefully, trying to minimize the damage to the stud (nub).

I find that the mounting holes on replacement turbine steps / apron rarely line up with the studs. I usually have to bend the steps outward slightly so the holes are far enough apart to match the studs.

Then I place the apron / step assembly over the studs so they sit at an angle (front to back). The sheet metal step assembly can then be snapped over the stud. Sometimes I use a flat screwdriver and a small hammer to snap it over. (Don't want to mush the stud).

Usually there is enough stud left to splay it by making an "X" in the end with a 1/4 inch cold chisel. I don't think I've ever had to glue one.

If it won't hold, I guess I would use a little JB weld epoxy.

I have also seen a few turbines where people drilled out the stud, and tapped the frame for a pair of screws to mount the part.

I bought the MPC version a few Yorks ago for pretty cheap. I didn't notice the steps were gone (it's hard to see what's missing). There was nothing left of the stud on one side and next to nothing on the other. I tried the JB weld, and it didn't hold very well. It's quite possible I didn't wait long enough for it to cure though.

I was warned that screws might interfere with the drawbar swing, as there isn't much clearance, so I drilled out the studs and riveted the new steps in place. Not the best solution, but they are still attached, and my Turbine will still go through o27 curves.

Hope this helps,

J White

Thank you everyone this has been a great help! I will order the steps soon along with some JB weld. I may try and combine the two techniques, just to make it interesting i will post a reply as soon as possible to let you know how it all went! 

Thanks again to everyone!

Huge thanks again to all those who responded to help me out with my little project. The steps arrived in the mailbox today and i decided to get right to work. I used the JB weld and it worked marvelously. I decided against making the "X" pattern on the old stud because there wasn't enough of the old stud left. It looks much better with steps than withoutthanks again everyone!

Glad it worked for you.  I did the same, and have repaired broken marker lights on steamers (1615's) with great results.  Remember "JB Weld" is your best friend!!!!  I use it extensively and even repaired a broken hub on a prewar wheel for a 1681E, shaped it with  xacto knife & files, drilled & tapped for linkage screw, and it runs perfect

Doc,

C'mon now, you're sounding like my autoshop teacher,"JB Weld is your best friend".LOL!(loved that man). You are so right in telling Bandomnjr about it. It works great when repairing pieces suffering from Zinc Pest as well.

Cracked control housings(#90 etc), transformers too.

Or the whole corner of a totally junked tender & new screw bosses

See the flats on the vertical corner from rounding the JB weld with a file?

That's how much is JB weld.  

You can use plastic wrap to shape it like soft putty then peel it off after mostly cured, leaving a smooth surface. Carefully look at the two halves from the whistle port down  

The right is pure JB weld. The fainter vertical brace line on the right, I added by tape and scribe.