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It will work. The motors are the same physical shape except the gearing. The light mount may or may not differ depending on which DR motor you have.

To remove the rods, I just use pliers and work my way around the shaft gradually squeezing the flare until the rod will come off. Take your time, you need to work around it a few times. This leave enough material to peen over again and retain the new rod.

 

Steve

Originally Posted by Steve "Papa" Eastman:

 

To remove the rods, I just use pliers and work my way around the shaft gradually squeezing the flare until the rod will come off. Take your time, you need to work around it a few times. This leave enough material to peen over again and retain the new rod.

 

I'm glad to know this.  Never tried replacing any rods, but always wondered how flexible the metal might be.

 

Originally Posted by Streamlined Steamroller:
Originally Posted by handyandy:

A smoking 999 would be awesome. Think of all the Marx tinplate locos such a motor could be used in to get smoking tin locos too! 

I know some people have made smoking Commodore Vanderbuilts. Some day I would like to make a smoking Mercury! Some modifications to the motor have to be made for this though. 

Yeah, I've done the smoking Commodore thing. That isn't too hard as there is plenty of room "under the hood" for a 666 smoker. A Merc can probably be done the same way. Seeing a 999 or a CP loco or an 898 with smoke would be cool though.

Originally Posted by handyandy:
Originally Posted by Streamlined Steamroller:
Originally Posted by handyandy:

A smoking 999 would be awesome. Think of all the Marx tinplate locos such a motor could be used in to get smoking tin locos too! 

I know some people have made smoking Commodore Vanderbuilts. Some day I would like to make a smoking Mercury! Some modifications to the motor have to be made for this though. 

Yeah, I've done the smoking Commodore thing. That isn't too hard as there is plenty of room "under the hood" for a 666 smoker. A Merc can probably be done the same way. Seeing a 999 or a CP loco or an 898 with smoke would be cool though.

Can you provide some diagrams for your smoking CV? I would love to make one. 

I too have a 999 that I would love to add a smoke unit too.  Having never seen one in person, how does a 333 smoke unit compare in size to a 666's? 

 

I've also wondered how hard it would be to get a small fan unit and a switch fitted up to trigger it but with no stock pile of parts and dimensions, it is simply a hypothesis for now.

Originally Posted by CaptJ:

I too have a 999 that I would love to add a smoke unit too.  Having never seen one in person, how does a 333 smoke unit compare in size to a 666's? 

 

I've also wondered how hard it would be to get a small fan unit and a switch fitted up to trigger it but with no stock pile of parts and dimensions, it is simply a hypothesis for now.

There is someone on Youtube who put a 333 type smoke unit in a 999. He had to take out the reverse unit and cut away a little bit of the frame. I think his custom smoking motor will fit in a CP or 898 too. 

Last edited by Streamlined Steamroller
Originally Posted by Streamlined Steamroller:
Originally Posted by CaptJ:

I too have a 999 that I would love to add a smoke unit too.  Having never seen one in person, how does a 333 smoke unit compare in size to a 666's? 

 

I've also wondered how hard it would be to get a small fan unit and a switch fitted up to trigger it but with no stock pile of parts and dimensions, it is simply a hypothesis for now.

There is someone on Youtube who put a 333 type smoke unit in a 999. He had to take out the reverse unit and cut away a little bit of the frame. I think his custom smoking motor will fit in a CP or 898 too. 

I saw that too. Pretty neat installation.

DR is for double reduction. With the DR motors extra set of gears, it should run a bit slower at a given voltage than a non DR motor.
 
Steve
 
 
Originally Posted by Streamlined Steamroller:
Originally Posted by Steve "Papa" Eastman:

The DR motor should run somewhat slower for any given voltage.

 

Steve

Excuse my ignorance but what does DR stand for? The wheels turn freely and all the contacts are clean. I wonder what it could be? Dirty reverse unit? 

 

Originally Posted by Steve "Papa" Eastman:
DR is for double reduction. With the DR motors extra set of gears, it should run a bit slower at a given voltage than a non DR motor.
 
Steve
 
 
Originally Posted by Streamlined Steamroller:
Originally Posted by Steve "Papa" Eastman:

The DR motor should run somewhat slower for any given voltage.

 

Steve

Excuse my ignorance but what does DR stand for? The wheels turn freely and all the contacts are clean. I wonder what it could be? Dirty reverse unit? 

 

I actually dropped the idea of the DR motor and fixed the original single reduction motor. 

on one of those nothing-better-to-do-with-my-time days, i counted the gear ratios for the Marx single and double reduction motors.  the single train has gearing at a 10:31:54 ratio which gives a 5.4:1 reduction.  the DR gear train is 10:34|14:35 which yields a gear reduction of 8.5:1.

 

beside the increase torque, the DR gear train also has the advantage of the smaller size final gear allowing the locomotive to pass through guard rails.

 

cheers...gary

Originally Posted by overlandflyer:

on one of those nothing-better-to-do-with-my-time days, i counted the gear ratios for the Marx single and double reduction motors.  the single train has gearing at a 10:31:54 ratio which gives a 5.4:1 reduction.  the DR gear train is 10:34|14:35 which yields a gear reduction of 8.5:1.

 

beside the increase torque, the DR gear train also has the advantage of the smaller size final gear allowing the locomotive to pass through guard rails.

 

cheers...gary

Oh, I think you are mis-understanding. The single reduction motor in the 999 is running slower than any of my other single reduction motors for a given voltage. 

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