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GG-1 MTH 20-5548-1
I believe this has the old 5V board because it has the 9V batt, but I replaced with a BCR.  
 
The engine is dead.  No click noise when power applied.  Will not start up in DCS or conventional.  How do I test the board to know if it is bad?
 
There sure are a lot of boards and parts in this engine.  If the PS2 board is bad, Would a donor PS3 work and would all the other stuff work with it?
 
Thanks for your inputs.
Ron
 
 

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Good morning Ron-

 

You may want to check if the switch under the engine is set to pantograph power, and not track power.  Since this is an older 5V board model, I am not sure if this GG-1 has such a switch.   About 1 month ago, I managed to flip the switch on my GG-1 to pantograph power (unknowingly), and I when placed on the track, of course, nothing happened.  I thought my engine was DOA.   Gunrunner John helped me out - probably one of the easiest fixes he ever had (Thanks again GRJ)

 

Jeff

If you have a transformer with amp meter you can look for signs of a short as indication the board is bad.  You can test for AC power in at the red and black wires of the 7 pin connector.  If you have power their you can replace the regulator attached to the thick 3 wire white connector.  Usually mounted on the frame.  I have never really seen one of those go bad.

 

The switch is a common issues.  For some reason picking that engine up allows that switch to move  Been there done that.

 

If the board is dead, you need a special order board.  The GG-1 with operating pantographs have a special flash code.  A generic PS-2 3V board will not work.  You can contact me via profile if you need more info.  Nice engine so worth repairing, but if the 5V is dead, even a generic 5V won't fix it because of the GG-1 flash code.  G

Last edited by GGG

GGG

 

I do get a reading of power at the 7 pin switch.  So what does that mean?  There are no visible burn marks on the board and no smell either.

 

Is there a way that the flash can be removed and swapped out?  I have another GG-1.  20-5515-1 has a 5V board too.  On a whim, I went ahead and installed that board on the failed GG-1 #4877.  While the engine did run and the lights worked, you are correct that the pantographs did not work.  The smoke unit also did not operate because there was nothing there to tell them to operate.

 

As you said the flash is unique to the GG-1.  My earlier G 20-5515-1 does not have operating pantographs or a smoke unit.

 

I'm perplexed what to do next.

Ron

 

 

 

Last edited by Ron045

Hello guys,

Got a similar issue with a MTH Blue Comet PS2 5v 2002.  Put the engine on a test track with new tiu and nothing.  Slight hum from tender.  Previously the engine was only run in conventional mode.  I know the TIU is working with the wifi, because I loaded two other diesels, and no problems.  They were PS2 3v versions.  Is it possible the board fried because it got the full 18 volts of DCS this time?  Could the voltage regulator be the problem and how could I test it ? 

Any help is appreciated

BTW, the wifi and TIU setup is great.  Been waiting on this for the last 2 years.  First time I got a TIU and now this happens

MR_P posted:

...  Previously the engine was only run in conventional mode ...

Is it possible the board fried because it got the full 18 volts of DCS this time?  Could the voltage regulator be the problem and how could I test it ? 

Any help is appreciated

Does it no longer work in conventional mode?  Do you hear the relay click (listen to you working PS2 diesels if you don't know what the relay click sounds like) when you initially apply power?

The board did NOT fry simply because you applied 18V when previously it was successfully running conventional.

The voltage regulator can be tested with a meter in DC Volts mode.  You can slide back the connector just a bit to expose the 3 leads while still making contact.  The metal tab is connected to the middle pin and is "-".   If you are careful not to short anything, with 18VAC applied to the track the left lead (with component markings upright) should read around 25V DC or so.  The other lead should read 5V DC exactly.  It is very unlikely the voltage regulator is the problem. 

More likely you will indeed read 5V on the voltage regulator but the board does nothing (no relay click, no nothing).  At that point there are only a few guys (GGG being one) that know enough to troubleshoot further or just throw in the towel and explore the other suggested options (PS32 or whatever).

If it doesn't work in any mode, it's likely dead.  Most of the 5V boards I've had that truly died did so in two different states.  A direct short that trips the breaker immediately.  Open circuit where they draw no current at all.

I think GGG will probably tell you the same thing, the chances of recovering a truly dead 5V board are not all that great.

MR_P posted:

Thanks guys for the words of encouragement,  jk. I talked to GGG and gave him the Loco to check it out. Nice guy and a good train show at the vtc meet. Everyone was nice,  nice items too.

It's in good hands.  GGG fixed the engine I reported at the start of this thread in 2014.  He also has another engine of mine right now in the works.

Ron

 

Dave Zucal posted:

Has anyone ever found the cause or what component fails on the 5 volt board ? 

Opinions vary. What you see frequently is the power supply components have died. I've seen enough of them with a particular cap leaking and/or swelled to think that might be one cause.

MR_P posted:

GGG says board is dead

 I'm not that surprised, not many of them come back from being truly dead.

I have seen the cap fail, but replacing it has only worked in 2 of XX or XXX boards.  I have seen a diode pair meant to make DC for the Circuit board fail.  Very hard to get to, I have seen a large FET fail that I am not quite sure what it does.  I have seen nothing obvious, so I assume the processor just stopped working.

I have seen total beat up an non maintained engines with 5V boards in that still work fine.  Really seems to be a random occurrence though some engine seem to fail more regularly like the FEF.

Mikes board was a newer version, nice an clean, and no obvious signs, but no relay click.   G

I think replacing that cap is too late after the failure.  I've replaced a couple in working boards that came in for repair when I observed they were leaking or swelled.  I didn't get the units back for any failures, but it's obviously too small a sample to make any real determination.  I figure if I see that cap swelling, and I can reach it, no reason not to replace it.  FWIW, the brand of the cap that has universally been failing that I've seen is WINCAP, the 330uf cap at the edge of the top board.

Guys, those 5 volt  boards are old.  Normally, none of us would expect the computer we purchased in 2002 to still be working properly.  The PS32 board is the hot setup.   I feel that MTH has done a good thing with those PS32 boards.  Instead of being pushed into buying a new engine, for reasonable money you can get your engine operating again.  I had the PS32 boards for testing early on before they were released and they are still operating great today.

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