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I recently purchased a MTH Premier N&W J and on the outside of the Styrofoam there was a label directing the purchaser to be certain the  metal wire atop the drawbar was positioned on the opposite side of the tender pin vs. where it is attached on the drawbar. It provides tension to keep the drawbar attached. At least this explained to me why the wire was there in the first place.

 

Too bad I had to return the J to the dealer for repair... would not run through my 72 inch curves. The engine just stalled and spun its wheels. See my post from a week or so ago on this issue.

+1 on the O ring fix if that is the issue you are having (not sure from the OP).

I had a Blue Comet set last year that was my first 3.0 purchase that was fine for a while but at a point often the plug would come loose just enough for the train to just stop, an a quick pop back would fix this.

Popped in an O ring an ran it would run literally for days and it never happened once after that.

What was also great with it was how easy it was to just roll the ring off just as much as would be need if I needed to pull the bar apart an it can just stayed there.

Simple easy fix an one I am surprised MTH has not employed.

Probably was not needed to much for the days when draw bars were only on the bigger radius engines, but with these tighter running ones now since these bars are on all, if your layout has lots of tights twists, it weakens the connection.

Last edited by WBFLine

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