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   I haven't had a chance to get on here lately had some unforeseen home renovations, which drastically changed my RR plans. I'm trying to come up with something to fit my new area. As I tried before I would like to have at least 2 trains running with a small yard and some sidings for switching action. The plan I have so far has plenty of running and yard area but very little area for sidings. Was hoping someone could jump in and help me out with this. My new plans are to use 0-27 tubular track and switches because  I( or should I say my wife god bless her) picked up a very large bunch of track and switches in very good shape at a yard sale and unless the layout uses more than 300 ft of track this will be a very inexpensive layout.  I am shooting for 0-42 as my smallest radius and probably 0-54 for the largest and using my 27" and 42" switches. Attached is what I have been able to do in scarm so far. I would like to have more sidings but I have no idea how to fit them in. I could use all the help I can get. as before thank you all for all the help in the past and for the help I know I will get from the great people in this forum.  

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  • lionel 0-27
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My first thought is, it's time to put your layout on a diet to skinny it up a bit. With depths of 6 feet and greater, you will lead the life of a gopher crawling under your layout and popping up through access hole to get to most of the layout. Just something to think about.

 

As for the sidings, what purpose will they serve? Will they be passing or serving an industry? If serving an industry, what kind? How many cars will the spur be required to hold?

 

Will the train yard be static or will you be actively switching it?

 

Unless all of your rolling stock is O-27, remove the O-27 crossover circled in the picture below. Anything requiring a curve greater than O-27 will most likely derail. The ross double crossover in the picture below is just for reference.

 

Do you have any rolling stock that requires O-54 curves?

 

Take a look at my version of your plan below and compare it to yours for some thought. Leaving the dimensions, you will see there is room for the sidings you need or want.

 

 

skinny

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  • skinny
Originally Posted by ChessieFan72:

My first thought is, it's time to put your layout on a diet to skinny it up a bit. With depths of 6 feet and greater, you will lead the life of a gopher crawling under your layout and popping up through access hole to get to most of the layout. Just something to think about.

 

As for the sidings, what purpose will they serve? Will they be passing or serving an industry? If serving an industry, what kind? How many cars will the spur be required to hold?

 

Will the train yard be static or will you be actively switching it?

 

Unless all of your rolling stock is O-27, remove the O-27 crossover circled in the picture below. Anything requiring a curve greater than O-27 will most likely derail. The ross double crossover in the picture below is just for reference.

 

Do you have any rolling stock that requires O-54 curves?

 

Take a look at my version of your plan below and compare it to yours for some thought. Leaving the dimensions, you will see there is room for the sidings you need or want.

 

 

skinny

 

Originally Posted by ChessieFan72:

I just noticed that the turnouts in the yard area are all O-27. Again, unless all you have are O-27 turnouts, you will need to replace those as well.

Stewart, I tried both SCARM links and they don't work.  Would welcome a tutorial on SCARM if you have one.

First let me say thanks for the input, I do like what you put together. I do however have some engines and passenger equipment that requires at least  0-31 radius the majority of my engines and rolling stock do quite well on 0-27.  My track consists of 14 27" switches and 6 42" switches with almost 300' of 0-27 track with 0-42 and 0-54 curves, I could not pass it up for 100 bucks, now I would like to put it to use.

 As far as the width I have a ladder contraption I built years ago to reach over my first layout, It easily reaches over the 6 ft width and is quite comfortable to work off of provided the height of my overall layout is not over 5 1/2 feet high.

 The sidings will be industrial spurs, a refinery, and I have a couple of scratch built old mill buildings from around my area mostly linen mills and a furniture factory that only need to accommodate 3 maybe 4 cars at the most. I model the New Haven RR around the late 40's and 50's era so just about all my rolling stock is 40ft except for the passenger cars. The yard will be used to store cars while the trains will be put together on the third line  while trains are running on the possibly 2 mainlines the passenger cars will probably never see the yard. 

   Yes I do see what you mean about the crossover I will have to see about using maybe 4, 0-72 switches for that, the ross double crossover is a bit out of my price range right now.

   Your new drawing has me thinking of how I can incorporate it with the larger radius curves and adding sidings. maybe

   You have given me a lot to look over, again thank you your input is greatly appreciated

  Thank You

     Gary

 

     

Last edited by old_toymaker

I thinned it out a little about 6 inches on the 15' long side and about 12" on the middle. I do have 3 gargraves 0-72 and 2 0-54 switches  I replaced the 27" cross over  with 0-72 and added the 0-54's to the beginning of the yard. I can just fit all six cars of my merchants limited on that set of tracks with about 4 inches to spare.

  I added a few sidings for my industries. and added some bridge work, I want to try to incorporate a 40" truss bridge that I made. I would appreciate any comments or criticism that anyone might have. and thanks again for the help

Gary 

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  • lionel 0-27-2
  • tubular 0-27-3
  • 025: 40" truss bridge with williams alco PA and PB

I am about ready to start building my benchwork, I have been cleaning up a bit and painting the backdrop on the walls. When I see pictures of people building there layouts they all seem to have a nice clean empty room to work with, I however have a basement that has been collecting junk for nearly 40 yrs. I have thrown out a lot but I am going to have to store a lot under the bench work when done, its the only storage area I have. My building will be done around what is left building one area and then moving stuff to build another area. I built carts with castors so whatever is stored can be moved easily for access to the layout. Oops sorry I am rambling that happens when you get old.

      My question is I have a PW,ZW and KW, would this be enough power for all my lines and  switches as well as any accessories that I might add. I was going to wire the switches so that they were powered separate from the track.

Last edited by old_toymaker

If anyone is interested I have started building. I finalized my plan and I am going to try sticking with it. There are some area's that I will have to fit as I build but that's the nature of the game. My table base is finished and I am waiting on track so I can lay the base line before putting in the second level.

   I am using up a lot of my O-27 tubular straight sections but I don't have any 42 or 54 radius sections. I ordered a case of gargraves flex from trainworld back in Sept but haven't seen or heard from them since.

   I have all the switches that are on the plan, I got most of it at a yard sale, very reasonable and everything was like new. all the lionel switches were still in the original boxes. I am now planning on buying gargraves sectional track for all my curves if I can find someone who has it in stock or maybe going to Ross.

   The bench work is all 1X4 with 2X4 supports. in the pictures you can see the uprights these will be connected by 1X4's to support the upper yard area. The backdrop I painted by hand (I am no artist just watched a few Bob Ross videos), it almost looks like trees and hills, the wife wanted to see mountains so one side has some pyramid shaped mountains, The other side I lined with mirrors to try to make it look somewhat larger than it is, the bottom of the mirrors will be at the same level as the upper yard level.

   in one pic you can see the ladder contraption, it hooks onto a set of pipes that are up in the floor joist and a pad is layed on top. It was designed to be lightweight and easy to maneuver. It weighs in at about 23lbs and folds up for storage, I used 400lbs of cement blocks to test it out and it didn't bend or break so I guess it will hold me at 185lbs,  my wife who is not very strong has no problem maneuvering it into place.

 Well that's whats done so far, if anyone has any suggestions or criticism's would be happy to hear, after all I can't fix what I don't know. 

 

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  • lionel 0-27-gargraves finished1
  • lionel 0-27-gargraves finished2
  • 102_1676: left side wall with mirrors
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  • 102_1677: work platform
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    I got some track in unfortunately most of the curves are on back order so I started laying what I have. In between shoveling snow and getting in wood I managed to get most of the bench work done and some carpeting layed down. The only track that is permanent is the track that the train is on. I get to run it back and forth about 20 ft. a mixed consist for checking as I go along. The rest of the track is just layed out so I can measure everything and make sure it will fit. The bridge is freestanding right now until I finish the upper level on that section. The buildings are just layed out not really sure how they will end up this is my plasticville section of the layout, most of the buildings I had from when I was a kid many many many years ago and a few vintage ones from ebay. I still need to build up the upper level on the right side of the layout. The retaining walls I picked up at lowes, they had a couple broken packages so I got it cheap to see how it would look. Its coming along slow but sure. 

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Last edited by old_toymaker

well its been awhile  since I updated this post, I have been rather busy and some has been on the layout but I didn't always have the camera with me. Anyway here are some updated shots of the layout it still has a long way to go. I have redesigned my bridges and have to get them cut on my buddies waterjet. The program for just the vertical supports was a bit tricky seeing how all the parts had to press together. but I managed to get 2 20 inch bridges done. the plasticville section of the layout is coming along nicely but the yard area has a long way to go. At least I have some trains running. 

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  • 102_1729: These are the vertical supports for the bridge, each is 3 pieces pressed together

First thanks for the comments the layout is coming along slow as time allows, My feeble attempt at tree making is an ongoing learning process. I did make my ladder for the hard to reach places surprisingly it works out pretty well I still have to put up some more pipe across the rest of the layout to hang it I've added a few pics of it here

 

I'd like to know what you used for the retaining wall.

 

The retaining wall was bought at home depot and some at lowes, its really nice stuff but a little expensive  at $15.00 for a 12 X 12 piece but it looks really nice.

here a few more pics for everyone's amusement or enjoyment at my feeble attempt at putting together my lil railroad.

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  • 102_1762: side  view of ladder folded
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Now, that's what I would "sky hooks".

 

I really enjoyed the process, showing planning from software to build. Many do not realize the accuracy of the plans using software that results in a faster build.

 

Yours is one that proves the point.

 

The scenery work is nice. No call for modesty.

 

Thanks for the update and sharing the layout with everyone.

thanks all for the comments.  I really do like the SCARM program, it really is a powerful tool in layout design, Since I do a lot of CNC programing, I use several different Cad programs and I must say that the scarm program is very easy to learn and is surprisingly accurate as far as track dimensions go and how everything fits together when building. it saves a lot of work and guessing at building time. Except for some very minor changes everything went almost exactly as printed from the program. The scenery part however for me anyway has been a little on the tough side but doesn't seem to be overly complicated.

    most of the ideas and how to use the program came from the help that this great forum and its members have provided.

         Mark just to let you know the forum name is the nick name  my grandsons gave me, they say I like playing with toys more then they do, and when it comes to trains,  their right. 

         Carl I meant to tell you the mosaic tile that is colored comes from home depot and really looks nice I think, all you have to do is cut what you need and stick it up with a little hot glue and its done no weathering or painting. It comes in 2 sizes, the larger size seemed to be a little too big for O gauge at least I thought so but hey you try what looks good.

 

Gary

 

Last edited by old_toymaker

well I have been doing a little scenery a few trees here and a few there, I am still trying to figure out how to put in (and what to use for the base and roads in the little town, I could use some suggestions if anyone has any.

  I also have a big decision to make, as I was adding some trees to the layout my wife was admiring the work as she reminded me that we will be moving when I retire which is only about 4 years away. Now do I continue with the  layout or just  be happy running trains and plan a new one.

  Any way here are a few pics of plasticville enjoy

 

Gary

    

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Originally Posted by old_toymaker:

 

I am still trying to figure out how to put in (and what to use for the base and roads in the little town, I could use some suggestions if anyone has any.

You could use pre-made roads like that made by Leisure Time Products. You could also make roads out of black felt or thicker paper and paint some lines. A third way would be to use drywall mud. Lay down painters tape to mark out the road and then lay the mud down and pull up the tape.

 

 

my wife was admiring the work as she reminded me that we will be moving when I retire which is only about 4 years away. Now do I continue with the  layout or just  be happy running trains and plan a new one.

I would say continue to scenic your little empire so you can hone your layout building skills. Just remember that what you place on your layout will eventually come up, so plan accordingly. Also, if you finish your layout, you could submit it to OGR. If it gets published, you will get something like $500 which can be used towards your new layout or the move.

 

I would definitely pause and start to think about the tear down of your layout (if the new home owner doesn't want the layout with the house.) Things to think about and start collecting would be boxes to pack stuff in and clean-up supplies. Also, think about how much of your framework and other items you want to take with you to be reused on a future layout.

 

 

 

 

Stewart thanks for the advice. I am going to try some of the roads you mentioned on the little plasticville section of the layout. I will continue to put out more trees and shrubs, I have been practicing using different plants to see how they look. I have been  using the flower buds from some sedum plants in the yard and lichen. As far as structures go I have quite a few kits that have not been built yet and transporting finished buildings can get a little tricky.

   The track is mostly all sectional so it will come up and come with me if the layout doesn't go with the house. As far as the benchwork goes, I don't know if we want to transport it a 1000miles along with everything else. but it is something to consider. Since it looks like we will probably build the wife has graciously  consented to letting me have all the basement I just have to leave room for the furnace and other utilities that tend to get in the way of a layout.

  Way ahead of you on the boxes even my wife has been keeping an eye out for sturdy medium to large boxes, seems the more junk I throw out from the attic the less room I have because of all the boxes you never know until you start packing how many you will need.

 

Again Thanks for the Advice

Gary 

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