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TheBigT posted:

Just a quick update.  Here is the track plan.  Thanks.The Big T Railroad 2016

TheBigT,

The track plan looks cool and maximizes the space. I have one question and one comment.

I do not see a crossover from the outer loop to the middle loop (unless I am missing it) so that train is unable to get inside or the inside trains get outside.

One comment, the middle and outside tracks on the curves near the doorway opening look pretty close to each other.

Have fun.

Mike

Mike,

Thanks for the comments and question.  

You are correct there is no crossover between the outer most loop and the inner two.  The outer loop I left alone for conventional running of my equipment (for kids) and for some of my train loving uncles to bring their tinplate stuff over.    My kids love the long freight trains running in circles so outer loop is for that.  

Now on my drawing the track 2 and 3 are close together at the door.  However, in reality they will not be that close.  I am maintaining a 5" c/c spacing of tracks for my longest articulated as well as passenger cars.  

 

Thanks 

Todd

 

 

Tom,

I will try to develop a PRR theme.  I grew up in the Pocono's and South Central PA so those locations are my plan.  However, my kids also have some control over the scenery since I am really trying to keep them interested as one is now a teenager and the other is getting close but both like 3D art as they are calling it.  

The map is a 1929 Steam RR map of PA (Original) from the archives of the DOT.  The PRR Plate was the original one presented to the DOT at the time the PRR plates were under development.   

 

Thanks,

Todd

Last edited by TheBigT

Todd,

Nice use of the space. Thanks for posting the layout build. It will be a great example to send members to view when they are considering how to get more train action out their space.

Good idea for the gorge/bridge scene in front of the window!

I, too, was wondering about the outside loop not being connected with a crossover. You can always do it later if you feel the need. Great idea for guests!

The yard is just about long enough to configure as an Inglenook and create some friendly competition between the boys. A recent forum thread.

I like the term "3D art". All layouts are an artistic creation.

The layout will be one enjoyed by everyone. I can tell that was big design consideration.

Again, thanks for sharing. Have Fun!

 

Nice layout and thread. I plan to use 2x4s for bench work too. It's simple, sturdy and relatively inexpensive. I plan to use minimal legs with lower rails for support and put wheels on so I can pull the layout away from the corner for maintenance.

I've read "the book" and still don't understand why bus wiring wouldn't work with DCS.

Did you isolate the center rail for each DCS block?

Did you solder the power feeds to the track? Or use joiners with leads attached?

I really like your track plan. I happen to have the almost exact size room, with a door in the exact same location. My benchwork is up, but not as tidy as yours by any means. I have hand-sketched a plan very similar to yours.

 A few questions:

1. What brand of track is that?

2. What brand of switches?

3. What radius for the curves?

3. What do the various numbers mean printed along the track, like 101S-37, 35.30in., etc?

Thanks again for posting. I need to get serious about finalizing my plan and start laying track. your photos have inspired me to get going.

Jeff

DOUBLEDAZ(Dave):

I've read "the book" and still don't understand why bus wiring wouldn't work with DCS. - I have did the same set up on my previous layout as well.  Never had any issues.

Did you isolate the center rail for each DCS block? - Yes each of the two inner loops are isolated plus I have added toggle switches to kill power in certain areas.

Did you solder the power feeds to the track? Or use joiners with leads attached? - I used a combination of both.  Switches and curves were soldered and tangents were spade connectors wedged up into the rail from the bottom.  These created larger holes in benchwork and my hope is that great stuff will fill them in so ballast will not be lost.  

 

Thanks

Todd

 

I guess I have one question I'd like to post.  Does anyone have any tips, tricks, ideas for at grade crossings located in curves.  I have two locations I would like to get the tracks embedded.  The roads I used are hard board painted black left over from a craft/nerf gun project for my son.  I went this route for the cheap aspect since I already had the materials.  Any advice of help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

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