New Layout Build- Final tie coloring added (Pics added 4-15-17)

Alan Hummel posted:

WOW!!! Your layout benchwork is AMAZING!!!

Thank you, it's been a project but I'm very happy with it.

My total layout area is 25'x50',with 2'7" shelves in width on the north 44' run that will house my yard & a few industries. The shelf is 37&1/2" high from the floor. The east end has 2'5" wide shelves,same approximate height. I have about a 10' run of shelves 3' wide on the south end then it's water works,i.e. sump pump,water heater,etc.,then I have about another 16' run of shelves 3' wide finishing up the south wall. The shelves on the west end are 3' deep but I can only run about another 10' on that end as desks & furniture take up the rest of that run. So I plan about a 44' run on the north end of the basement,then make a 50' radius curve heading south. I plan to use the south shelf mentioned last for a short industry. The south shelfs will house something. I plan on making a straight run east & west that'll house mainline tracks. My basement's full,but I'll work "over" the obstacles as lumber becomes available.

Sounds like a good plan that should offer some really nice modeling.

My "thing" here in my area,is that it looks "cramped" compared to yours,Chris,and I thought you had a shorter area,correct me if I'm wrong. What am I missing? I'm trying to view my layout from my mind's eye while you have a table top laid out. 10 60' grain hoppers fill up a yard track & it makes me think O is going to look "out of place" in  my area. Am I just being paranoid?

Paranoid?...No, it tells me that you're thinking.  O Scale will definitely chew up space quickly and as such some "modifications" are in order.  In my case I won't be running 100 hoppers full of coal with a Y6 and a Class A on the point with a Y6 pusher,  maybe 30 hoppers on a good day...it will look the part.  I don't think you'll have anything to worry about with your set up.  If need be widen a shelf by a few inches here and there, play with the design a bit in relation to the operations you wish to have.  My tabletop portion is for a bit of a yard and a engine servicing area and is roughly 30 feet long and about 6 feet in depth so it will work well.  The overall length of the layout is 44 feet by 23 feet.  I am also incorporating areas where I can expand in the future if I choose.

Al Hummel

Al,

I agree with Chris; I think you will be fine, and am glad you are thinking it through.  I think you have plenty of space for the rolling stock you want to run.

Now, if you look at my topic that I have a link to in my signature (I'm on the iPhone now, or I would put a link here) I weighed the options, and decided against designing a plan that would let me run my Premier J 611 and 18" passenger cars.  My space is only 11 1/2 ft x 11 1/2 ft.  I even decided against running my J on my Ceiling Central RR in the next room, not because I was afraid of it falling off the track, but because I was afraid of dropping it when on a ladder trying to place it on and off the track.  The cars were sold last week, and I'm going to sell the J as well.  I don't have money to leave several hundred dollars just sitting on the shelf.  Ha ha!!

Again, I think you have the space like Chris said for your plans.

Well tonight I began organizing all the cr@!...er stuff I have so hopefully now I can figure out what I have and what I need to get...  Also began cutting down the homasote in to manageable sized sections.

I'm green with envy, layout and parts repair in the same place. I had to laugh, viewing your last pictures on a small kindle screen, I thought a few empty brewski bottles had made the scene.... on closer inspection, mega steam!

hokie71 posted:

I'm green with envy, layout and parts repair in the same place. I had to laugh, viewing your last pictures on a small kindle screen, I thought a few empty brewski bottles had made the scene.... on closer inspection, mega steam!

Lol....there were a few bottles...just out of camera view...  Yeah it works well, I have a chair that is the perfect height for working there...no bending required.

I am assuming the introductory run when finished will be a J, maybe the Pocahontas special?

Have to do some planning for the  grand opening!

Possibly...or a nice coal drag headed by a Y6b.....started putting roadbed down today.

I have begun installing the cork roadbed on the layout.  I am using staples to hold it down until the glue drys and then I come back and pull them out so that I can sand down any uneven spots in the cork...not many but there are a few.

nice work Chris

if I may suggest, when sanding the cork bed, make up a 'long board' sander, as long as you can reasonably handle. it's a trick I learned from boat building that prevents short hollows from a short-base sander, ensuring a nice continuous level surface.

the length of a sheet of sandpaper ought to do well; +-11", even longer is better.

Looking good Chris! I am kinda lost with the open areas, but then again I am lost on a lot of things. I have found it best for me to just keep fallowing and the crazy thing is buy the end I have learned so much from people like you and many others Chris!

PRR Man posted:

nice work Chris

if I may suggest, when sanding the cork bed, make up a 'long board' sander, as long as you can reasonably handle. it's a trick I learned from boat building that prevents short hollows from a short-base sander, ensuring a nice continuous level surface.

the length of a sheet of sandpaper ought to do well; +-11", even longer is better.

Thank you for the tip!  I appreciate it and I'll be sure to do that.  

mike g. posted:

Looking good Chris! I am kinda lost with the open areas, but then again I am lost on a lot of things. I have found it best for me to just keep fallowing and the crazy thing is buy the end I have learned so much from people like you and many others Chris!

Thank you Mike.  The open areas exist for a few reasons, with the track being on risers it will allow me to create more visually interesting scenery as the track will be elevated.  Also it is going to allow me to do 90% of the wiring from above instead of from below which will make future access much easier. 

Everything is well thought on this layout! It's enjoyable to follow your progress, really!

jpv in France

Thanks Chris, so as things move along will you be sheeting the open areas?

N&W Class J posted:

I have begun installing the cork roadbed on the layout.  I am using staples to hold it down until the glue drys and then I come back and pull them out so that I can sand down any uneven spots in the cork...not many but there are a few.

K.A.& T.N. (Kickin' A** & Takin' Names) there N&W 611!

MF

Very nice!

Peter

It's good to see, Chris. 

I use a carpet layer's electric staple gun.  It drive the staples deep, so no need to pull them out.

I didn't realise Midwest made O scale cork underlay.  I'm still using up my HO stuff.  I just leave a gap in the middle. 

I use double sided carpet tape under the cork. Install goes super quick, no drying time, and it comes up if needed without damaging the subroadbed. Best method I've ever used. I also tried it under the track on top of the cork. Install is super fast and it hold like crazy. The problem is trying to get the track up again if you need to. You pretty much can't. The track gets destroyed most of the time. So now I just use it under the cork.

JPV69- Thanks you very much!

MikeG- Not with plywood, but it will get covered so to speak when I am doing the scenery work.

MattF- Yes sir...I'm trying to.

Peter- Thanks you very much.

Max- Thanks you, yes they make it in O scale although it's harder to find right now than Bigfoot!  Pulling the staples is ok for me as they come out easily, and I can get a little fore arm workout in.

jonnyspeed posted:

I use double sided carpet tape under the cork. Install goes super quick, no drying time, and it comes up if needed without damaging the subroadbed. Best method I've ever used. I also tried it under the track on top of the cork. Install is super fast and it hold like crazy. The problem is trying to get the track up again if you need to. You pretty much can't. The track gets destroyed most of the time. So now I just use it under the cork.

 

Sounds like a good method, I can see how it would speed things up...and be a bit cleaner.

Still laying cork, I'm going to be starting on drawing out the yard/engine servicing area trackage today but that will be done loosely as I want to be able to modify that as needed to suit building placement.

Your progress in the limited time you've been working on the layout is amazing.

I need to hire you...and your boys...!

Can't wait to see more!

For really looooong board sanding you can get a 100 grit 3" wide sanding belt used on a belt sander, cut it, lay it down and   fasten each end of the belt on the ends of a straight/flat piece of 2 x 4 .

86TA355SR posted:

Your progress in the limited time you've been working on the layout is amazing.

I need to hire you...and your boys...!

Can't wait to see more!

Thank you, yeah I've been hustling.  The boys are available....

Tom Tee posted:

For really looooong board sanding you can get a 100 grit 3" wide sanding belt used on a belt sander, cut it, lay it down and   fasten each end of the belt on the ends of a straight/flat piece of 2 x 4 .

That is the exact thought I had after reading Chris' (PRR MAN) suggestion for sanding.  That seals the deal on how I'm going to do it. Thank you Tom.

Chris...is that a piece of Rail laying on your tabletop...I see what appears like it in the distance of one of the latest photos. If so that sure makes a significant weigh for various tasks requiring it.

Bob 

Yes it is...it works great!

Decided to whip up a #8 mockup to move about the layout for figuring out track layout here and there...not a final product by a long shot just a 20 minute quick build.  The real deal begins tomorrow.....

Always worthwhile having an actual switch to prevent your design from going off course because you figured things would fit. Keep plugging buddy...

Bob

Most definitely....thank you.

I visit your thread almost every day and always something new! many work to do but very promising layout!!

I will keep on reading you! 

jpv in France

Nice work! Good post to follow. Do you have a track plan or just plan as you go along?

jpv69 posted:

I visit your thread almost every day and always something new! many work to do but very promising layout!!

I will keep on reading you! 

jpv in France

Thank you, it's progressing nicely.  I spent some time today building some #8 switches...got 3 done so far not placed just yet.  Only 15 or so to go...

Seacoast posted:

Nice work! Good post to follow. Do you have a track plan or just plan as you go along?

Thank you.  You can take a look at this video, it's my track plan...all be it a loose one....

Chris, when you run out of things to do, how about posting some of your turnout photos on my new R-O-W "Comments & Photos" Section.

Jay

Jay C posted:

Chris, when you run out of things to do, how about posting some of your turnout photos on my new R-O-W "Comments & Photos" Section.

Jay

I sure will Jay, I'm building some right now.  I want to get a few done and in place then I'll snap a few photos.

Chris,

Just watched your layout design video-GREAT STUFF!! Thank you. 44ft is what I'm looking at in length,possibly a few ft more,but have a lot of things to work around at this time. The video gives ideas.

Al Hummel

Thank you Al.  I made the track plan to just help visualize things, and to work from in a loose way, none of it is carved in stone at this time.  Some things will change and some have already so take your time with the planning because it will pay off in a big way when you begin construction.  The changes I have made I anticipated making during the planning process but I needed something 3 dimensional in order to confirm my thoughts.

Looking great Chris!  Can't wait to see the yard/engine facility take shape.

Thanks Mike...me to.