New 7/3 MTH WM 2-8-0 problems

I had a similar problem with the grease box screws on my Imperial Y6b (2010 production run). I was running on 0-27 switches and the center rail on those is slightly higher and shorting out. My solution was replacing the 0-27 switches with Ross but I also found screws with thinner heads also worked. 

As for the stopping, it sounds like the wireless drawbar may be falling out. Be careful to really get it in there. It should "click" into place. Another trick I've done is used a plastic zip tie to lock the connection together. See below for a photo. 

Robert, I just happen to have the PS2 version of this engine on the layout now. Construction is near identical though mine has pan head screws while your look like flatheads. The roller center is just past the center of the screw head. I held the engine on a piece of unmounted track and measured the clearance between the roller and screw and got just under .1".  I used drill bits as feeler gauges to measure the gap. Try that on your engine. If the arm that holds the roller is a bit shorter it may place the roller directly over the screw. A longer arm may help or maybe the screw could be changed out with one with a thinner and rounder head.

Pete

Robert,

Your other problem is an insufficient ground problem due to the isolated wheel sets and excessive black coating on the wheels.

I removed the nylon bushing in the pilot truck and replaced it with an aluminum one.

I soldered jumpers from the axle to the back side of the tender wheel set that does not have the wipers.  While the wheels were out, I removed the black coating.  I also removed the black coating from the two un-tired drive wheels.

Most don't follow the ground issue advice but trust me, IT WORKS!

Hope this helps,

Dave

Those screws are just plugs.  I would use nylon ones.  Bad effort on the design if the clearance is that close.

G

I had a Lionel engine that did that and I put foam tape on the frame. I believe the uncoupler track is making the pickup raise higher. The suggestion of smaller head screws or a nylon one is a good idea.

Dave,

Do you have a source for the aluminum bushings that you installed?  I have had several issues on PS3 engines due to nylon bushings.

The problem with "stopping dead" isn't just this engine. My PS3 RK Imperial Mikado does it as well when operating under conventional control. Under DCS, it coasts gently to a stop. I've opened a dialog with MTH regarding the problem and will report back anything that I learn.

The issue with bottoming out the rollers on the screw heads when traveling the GraGraves uncouplers isn't all that surprising. MTH, like all of the manufacturers who also sell track, design their engines to work optimally with their track. These manufacturers may not and, frankly, shouldn't have to ensure that their products work well with their competitors' products.

I regularly find that my smaller MTH steamers often have issues with my 6-turnout Ross switch ladder. I have a variety of ways to remedy the problem so that these engines can crawl over the turnout ladder at 2 SMPH. Thus far, I haven't found any that I couldn't modify slightly (and non-invasively) to correct any such problems.

As far as the pulling power of the engine, I haven't seen too many issues like the one that you describe. I tend to operate relatively short trains (6-10 cars), however, I have one really wretched grade that is excessively steep and has an O42 quarter-curve in the middle. Some engines can be challenged a bit moving from the layout's middle level to its upper level.

I have to agree with Barry. My Premier PS3 Alco S2 switcher would stop dead on my FT uncoupling tracks. If I ran it fast to make it over, the rollers would slam hard into the electromagnets. I never had any issues with any other engine going over the electro magnets of the uncouplers. I remedied the issue by grinding down the electromagnet with Dremel sanding drum.  

Barry, I was operating under DCS, no coasting to a stop at all.

Norton, you are correct, rollers with a longer arm would work, if I could find some.

SJC, drawbar was secure in place.

Dave, I may someday use the engine on 2 rail so I'm not sure I want to do that to the coating on the wheels. Also, I think an extra roller on the tender would help. Seems like MTH used to have them on the tenders of previous Proto 2 engines, probably an profit margin cut.

Anyone else have any of these experiences?

Robert,

Save your nylon spacers.  Still remove the black on the wheels. (This has nothing to do with 2/3 operation)

Instead of the soldering tip, make brass spacers for the tender wheels as well.  They are easy to replace. 

Wire brush the wheels at the very least!

Kirk, I just made my own.

Robert,

I was operating under DCS, no coasting to a stop at all.

Have you done the following:

• Changed the ACC and DEC settings to "3"
• DCS engine Feature Reset
• DCS engine Factory Reset
• DCS engine conventional (transformer) reset.

Hi Barry, no I have not tried those procedures yet, but will look into it.

Here is another problem with this engine I just incurred and documented with film again.

Second movie is of a 10 year old K-Line 0-6-0 TMCC switcher pulling consist of 6 die-cast hoppers and 1 caboose, no problems ever going up my grade, as all my other engines do as well.

First movie is of the new 2-8-0 pulling the same consist up the grade running DCS. It cannot make it and stops with a chattering noise in the gearbox.

Last is a photo of some of the longer rollers I've tried, ones off the yellow engine shown. They clear the screw heads OK, but then the front one hits against the pilot truck mount and shorts out. So these won't work either, have to find nylon screw or use tape.

Let me know your thoughts, BTW, walked into my LHS today to inform the owner about the problems, was telling him about the video when another customer spoke up and said " I saw those videos on the forum". Small world.

No, I'm not trying to return the engine, I would rather fix it.

( had problems loading the movies, had to do it over again, and adjust the text in post)

Robert,

I responded to your E-mail regarding my earlier posts.

Regarding the hill-climbing problem, are the wheels slipping when the engine stops and are the traction tires in place?

Robert, G says these screws are just plugs. I assume they allow for oiling the axles. Why not just remove the two under the rollers and see if it makes a difference. If the rollers are hitting the screw head they may be lifting the wheels off the track slightly. If removing the screws improves traction you could replace them with set screws.

Pete

Robert, years ago I had a Premier 0-8-0 that exhibited the same problem with a small consist off die cast hoppers. Would just stop and not move with a chattering sound. Remove the cars and the engine ran fine. My local shop owner was an MTH Tech and I left it for him to take a look at. He said he added a shim inside the gearbox. Not sure exactly what he did but it cured he problem. It's never done it since and will pull a good consist. It wasn't fixed with factory parts. He was a clever kid mechanically and just fabricated what it needed.

Robert, I have a similar problem with a PRR 2-8-0.  Somewhere on the forum is another gentleman with the same problem also.  MTH sent him a new truck and fixed his problem.  My main problem was that the engine was derailing entering the curved section of a Lionel O-22 switch.  I contacted Pat's Trains, he sent me a new truck and problem fixed - but now it derails coming in the straight side of the switch.  I have run "numerous" Lionel, MTH diesels and steamers thru the switch - no problem.  I have another 5 O-22s that the engine goes thru no problem.  I finally, with screwdrivers & pliers, reworked the part of the switch where it was jumping & it mostly works.  I had 2 straight sections that were problems and I have filed them down - one totally ok and the other mostly.  I think it must be a very tight & unforgiving tolerance issue.  Really like the engine, but!!  Now, if I could only get my Southern Pacific Cab Forward back from MTH service.  Failed 1st time around the track - right out of the box.  Grrrr!  

Update: I was able to find some nylon screws of the right thread size, cut the length shorter and used them in the two grease holes. They work fine as you will see in the movies. Also, took David's advice and used a Dremel tool to remove the black covering off the wheels of the tender, only the ones not insulated to get a better ground. Then took Barry's advice and changed some of the control settings in DCS for this engine. As you will see in the movies, these all made a big difference.

Thanks to all who gave advice and helpful hints.