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Vague from a newby? Expected. Don't sweat it. As you can see the info still flows, just a little slower

 

 It depends on how many, and types of accessories, as well as the loco(s) you run.

Every draw on acc. also weakens the power available for your engine.

A few things wont get noticed, but it all adds up.

Think about buying a multi-meter. Even a cheap one would better than none.

 Harbor Freight stores offer decent ones for under $20 I think.

Even the little square black ultra-cheap analog versions from the dollar store are usable for most of our purposes.(but often lack amp readings)(10-15amp max is big enough on amp reads)

 

Lights wont matter much unless you run a lot. (on mini bulbs, that's o.25w not 25w)

Neither will accessories that don't run 100% of the time.

 

Every device, even a bulb (on the base of most), has an amp rating, watt rating, or volt amp[VA], (NOT the same thing exactly but similar. Different math formula for VA).

Some require referencing the bulb number printed on it due to size limits.

 

Your total constant draw w/loco should not be over about 80% of the supplies max. rating for best performance of the supply long term..

 

Anyhow, add up all the bulbs and acc. draws, and see how much your stealing from the loco. Can you live with that loss?

Yes? Then do.

No? Add isolated power just for the accessories.

 

An old DC wall-plug power pack or "wall wart" can run lights all day long and some accessories (remember to look at amps/watts and 80% "rule". Does the "wall wart" have enough power??

 

 Bulbs don't care much if you feed them AC or DC.

Always test any "unknowns" with dc.

Done temporarily, as in don't leave it hooked up if it doesn't work, chances are, no harm will come of it.

It will or wont work is all that will happen.

 

AC being feed to DC items, stand a much much better chance of smoking the unit.

 Don't assume everything in O is AC including Lionels. They have DC stuff too)

Some AC acc. wont run on dc unless you swap +&-. Some just wont work. (rectification of AC gives out DC+ and DC- and some need both DC types to work with modern chips.)

 

I have four main circuits; track, lights, acc fixed, acc vari.

Lights are isolated. Acc. fixed volt is isolated. They are not "phased"

Both variables share a common, and are phased. 

 

Learn about phasing before you use two transformers together. Its simple, but very necessary to avoid over voltage and correct operation. A great Lionel video on that here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iASQfnE6pCk

 If a train can derail, and reach to an acc. it could short on, they should be phased even if they are isolated circuits.

 I run most lights on one circuit (a small 25W transformer at the moment, so I can dim them)

 Accessories are split up.

One circuit is on a constant accessory circuit like on the CW-80.

The other acc. circuit is on a little 50w Marx transformer because those acc.s benefit from a variable power source. 

 My track is 3 (all phased) PW 1033's (90w) and 100W Marx. 

 

 

 

 If you want a constant on source, not affected by throttle, use the acc. terminals.

It's that simple.(Otherwise your "town" experiences blackouts with each direction change) 

 

You might not need terminal blocks and boards right now, but they are a good way to keep wiring easy to work with as the copper spaghetti grows over time.

 It wont hurt.

 Nor will some labels..

You may be adding something, or chasing an issue, but when you go back into your wire is when you'll be glad you did it already

  You can get wire ID labels from just about anywhere to wrap the ends, which is very nice when 3 black wires are eventually following one route.

 

Of any help to you?

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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