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For a starter set a CW 80 would be fine. Modern transformers have better circuit protection from derailments and shorts than older postwar transformers whose internal breakers served more to protect the transformer rather than the train..

 

If you decided to use a postwar transformer instead, an external circuit breaker is a good idea for protection.

Thanks for the replies. Ok , now on to track and other stuff, fast track way to go? i have at least 5 BIG boxes of semi  rusted and rusted track. Worth cleaning this stuff up? Should I just toss it? I will of course save switches, and other stuff .

 

one more question, I have a BIG container full of plasticville , some boxed , much in need of putting together, hoping parts are there? Worth anything?

 

AK

FasTrack looks good but has 2 main drawbacks,

 

  • Its expensive
  • It's noisy

 

I recently installed a small 10' line of FT on my layout alongside a tubetrack mainline and the noise difference with FT is considerable.This is on a layout with a carpet roadbed over a Homasote type base. It's so annoyingly noisy I have decided against future FT deployments and will eventually replace it all with tube track at a fraction of the cost.

 

As for attempting to fix up rusty old tubetrack it all depends on how much time and patience you have. Keeping in mind rusty track is actually more realistic looking than shiny new track, I have been successful using steel wool, (a big no no by the way) or even better, a scotch pad to clean the tops of the rails ignoring slight rust on the remainder. Tube rack for the most part is so cheap if the track is hopelessly rusty it's not worth the bother to try and restore.

If you want new track, Menards has just started selling their own O tubetrack on line at a price that screams why bother with used track.

 

AK,

 

It might help if you clarify how you are going to operate your toy trains?

 

I prefer Fast track for the carpet because of the stability, and ease. It is expensive, and I highly recommend that you get your self a pair of terminal crimpers and the .110 female quick disconnects and appropriate gauge wire to use for FastTrack rather than buying the terminal piece of track. 

 

My fathers and grandfathers post-war and early MPC era stuff I prefer to operate on standard tubular, because I think it looks the best IMO. However, I operate all my modern MTH, Lionel, Atlas on Lionel Fast track.

 

If you are going to go permanent, I think many of the forum members will recommend Atlas, Gargraves, or Ross of the solid rail variety. I don't have any practical experience with those track systems. For my planned future permanent rail system I lean toward Atlas.

 

Bobby

I agree with areizman...take a few track pins out of the old track and pitch it.  i have a big box of it down in the basement i "won" at auction.  its not worth saving.  I use old 3 rail and i love it....so much more quiet.  i have a fastrack loop under the tree and the noise is overwhelming.  at one time, i had 4 loops of fastrack running on my layout.  the noise was unreal!  I sold it and i don't plan on going back.  when i need new track, i'm going to menards!  i'm not messing with auction track or fastrack every again.  jeff

AK,

   Bobby gave you real good advise as to purchasing your 1st entry level Transformer, 

pick up the Z1000 and forget the CW80.  For approx the same cost you get a much better modern transformer.   I also recommend the old ZW's with the use of 10 Amp Breakers, if you plan on running DCS & Legacy.  As far as Track goes, I run FasTrack because it accommodates all the different O Gauge Trains including PW Tin Plate and the new FasTrack Command Control switches are fantastic engineering, also have the old 027 and O Gauge Conventional Tubular, when I want the original conventional look, with my Tin Plate Trains.

PCRR/Dave 

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

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