Non derail on Ross dz 1000

Sure it is..  It's still tricky skinning the tiny wires but a little easier.   Gregg IMHO.

Thanks, Greg, I tried it and it works. I have 73 yr. eyes and hands like hams I really struggle with some of the small screws and wires that you have to use. 

Tstark

Titan self adjudting wire strippers will make stripping those small wires much easier as well as all your wire stripping jobs.  Once you get one you will not want to use your manual ones and pliers any more.

Newer DZ 1000's have wire leads, unfortunately the soldered leads can detach if your not careful.  I believe DZ will fix or replace these switch motors.   The wire leads are very small be careful.  I believe they are pre-stripped and tined with solder, making them more acceptable to wire nut splicing.

Note the Red/Yellow and Green wires from (2) DZ 1000 switch motors.

I am also 73, and am not as nimble in the hands as I once was.

Do yourself a favor, use euro style terminal blocks, available at Lowes with 9 sections.

Cut each block assy. into 3 sections, and install under the table for each switch and controller.

Label the Green and yellow positions.  Number each switch and corresponding controller.  Troubleshooting

is easier.  See attached photos.  Since doing this, damage to switch motors and controllers has disappeared.

Yes - Dennis repairs the controller and motor at no cost.

I did mine with the Euro style terminal strips as well, exactly as Bruce Benzie posted above.

TStark:

I use OK Industries ST-450 wire stripper (www.jonard.com) for thin wires. One can strip 26-36 awg wire. It takes a little getting use to (hand pressure) but once you dial that in stripping wire is pretty easy.

Joe

I just wired over 26 Dz1000 machines and lessons learned: My machines were a few years older, but here are some hints:

1) Pre- Tin your wires going in an out of the machine. Will save you some electrical contact frustration.

2) Pre test each machine before you install. Even if they are new.

3) Use the junction idea above below the table. Chances are you will have to service these machines

4) Solder your wires to the controller, and use the junction under the table, or a contact strip.

5) You can change the LED lights on the machine with ease, not so on the controller.

6) If you have a limit switch go on one of these or a small broken wire, best to just save it for parts. Tried to take one apart and it was like the rattle snake in the can... surprise... yeah, it not going back together.

7) Some times I get a screamer. A motor and gear that will loose contact from each other.  I have been very lucky in sometimes pressing down on the top housing firmly with my thumb and they will re-engage.

8) I change the switch machine attachment screws to a lower profile / smaller screw. This will  prevent Lionel 0-8-0 scale locomotives and Atlas passenger cars from catching on them.

Most of the time these are very reliable, just have a few spares just in case one goes during your next operating session.

Best calibrated thin wire strippers.   Not recommended for 16 gauge or larger.

Bruce

Oh my gosh! 

I think I see the slots for 22, 26 and 28 awg!

Ha! Just have to keep up on the adhesive on those choppers!

JDaddy - when you wire the DZ-1000 do you sometimes notice that only one LED will light on the controller even though the DZ-1000 is switching properly? Note - both LED bulbs are good. Is this a ground or hot wire issue?

Joe

I have had some of the same issues with the lights.  A couple of the lights do not turn on except when the switch is activated and then goes back off.  Any Ideas?  This problem occurred after I switched the LED lights to display the proper direction.

Model Structures posted:

JDaddy - when you wire the DZ-1000 do you sometimes notice that only one LED will light on the controller even though the DZ-1000 is switching properly? Note - both LED bulbs are good. Is this a ground or hot wire issue?

Joe

Yep, just do a flip - flop on the L and R wires and you should be good to go. If the color bulbs are wrong, you can pull the LED bulb on the machine and plug them in on the other socket.

BTW, if you have a machine that the motor keeps running  - i.e. broken limit switch, or a motor is in-op due to broken wire at the motor... I tried to repair one  and when I opened the housing, then opened up the motor side to pull the switch out ... it was like a spring snake in a can... best to just buy a new one....

J Daddy:

Thanks! 

I was thinking that the bulbs in the controller are polarity sensitive, if no light, reverse the bulb.  I had a screamer, I was using 18 volts, took the top off and was able to put the gear back on with a little glue on the shaft this time, reduced my voltage to 12 and have not had a problem since. 

Is it possible to wire positive and ground daisy chained around the layout. I have 10 to wire and running just  2 wires would be much easier.

thanks  Tstark

tstark posted:

Is it possible to wire positive and ground daisy chained around the layout. I have 10 to wire and running just  2 wires would be much easier.

thanks  Tstark

Sure, The ground would be one of the wires common to an outside rail.  Then you could hook up the controllers any where on the buss. Where were   you thinking of putting the controllers?

If at the transformer I don't see much advantage except for the Hot buss.