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Looking to build a small layout. The layout will have a tempered hardboard base then foam and track on top of the foam board. Any options other than using foam board for a base that will still keep trains quieter but not cost so much?

 

*Update I have been looking up about the different ideas about what to use as of now I'm debating on the Floor Muffler product at Home Depot or Quietbrace. Might be leaning more to the Floor Muffler I want to keep the price down on building this layout. The layout will smaller than most layouts the max space I want to have is 42 inches by 42 inches. Originally it was to be 3ft by 3ft however, due to some suggestions and looking at what I have to work with I decided to extend part of the plan to make it easier to run a slightly lager steam locomotive and have the track so tight to the edge. The plan is still with in my limit of space I do not want to go to 4ft by 4ft  because of space limits.

 

The rough track plan idea- https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...ft-o-27-layout-plan?

Last edited by Khayden93
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I used "Sounding Board" on my layout and it works great.  A replacement for Homasote, but cheaper ($13 4x8) .  Can't get it a Lowes or Home Depot but if you have a local lumber yard they should be able to at least get it, if they don't stock it. 

 

If you enlarge the picture your will see the "Sounding Board" on top of the 3/4in plywood

 

 

 

 

IMG_0646

 

You can see other pictures of my layout at

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...ck-plan-with-scenery

 

 

 

 

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  • IMG_0646: Sounding Board on top of 3/4 plywood
Last edited by gsn1

Use the 2mm underlament that is used under laminate floors. It is a dense, closed-cell type foam that has a higher sound absorption rating than any board. Spray adhesive (3M 77) around the edge, roll out and stick. Trim to fit.

 

Roberts Blackjack or the Floor muffler product at Home Depot.

 

Then you could put a Woodland Scenics vinyl grass mat on top of that. Spray adhesive. 3M 77. Trim to fit.

 

I just built a small table for my grandson out of 1 x 4's, rabbeted top edge, 1/4 flooring wood. Sounded like a drum until I put the foam on it. Now it's thud.

 

All of that heavy stuff is old school. Use 1/2" ply and the floor product.

Originally Posted by Moonman:

Use the 2mm underlament that is used under laminate floors. It is a dense, closed-cell type foam that has a higher sound absorption rating than any board. Spray adhesive (3M 77) around the edge, roll out and stick. Trim to fit.

 

Roberts Blackjack or the Floor muffler product at Home Depot.

 

Then you could put a Woodland Scenics vinyl grass mat on top of that. Spray adhesive. 3M 77. Trim to fit.

 

I just built a small table for my grandson out of 1 x 4's, rabbeted top edge, 1/4 flooring wood. Sounded like a drum until I put the foam on it. Now it's thud.

 

All of that heavy stuff is old school. Use 1/2" ply and the floor product.

I'll look into that thanks

I went to a fabric store and found some foam with a peal and stick backing.  It was about 24" X 36".  I picked up a piece and thought I could trim it to fit under the FasTrack.  So far I used some to cover a metal bridge deck to keep the track from shorting out.  I also found a roll of carpet that I can best describe as the material they use to line your car trunk with.  The material is like a course felt thats about 1/8 inch thick.  I think I can paint ir and sprinkle some ground foam and I'm done.   The underlament that is used under laminate floors is a little pricy. 

When I started building my layout I looked for Quiet Brace.  I had no luck finding any in the Baltimore Metro Area.  I live about 35 miles from the city.  I called the company that makes the stuff and they told me there is only one factory making Quietbrace and it is available in a limited market.  Home Depot is one of the distributers, but in order to have any shipped to the local store I needed to buy a full pallet.  I didn't need 40 sheets so I passed.  I decided to use one inch green foam on top of 3/4 plywood.  (foam comes in many colors depending on the vendor) 

However, in order for you to achieve the sound deadening results you are looking for, there must never be any direct physical connection between the Homasote or other material and the plywood base.  This means glue or caulking but no screws, nails or brads of any kind, ever!  If you are using brads or nails to mount the track, make sure they are sized so as not to penetrate beyond the thickness of the Homasote.  As soon as one nail penetrates beyond the isolation matting and into the plywood base, you have created a significant transfer path for sound and vibration.

A few years ago I attempted to make a small layout out of card board (corrugated paper).  It was going to be a simple figure 8 under and over.  It was going to be built totally out of card board. I gave up on it because I couldn't find large enough sheets of card board. Also cardboard from different manufacturers is different thicknesses.  Places in the cardboard where folds occurred also caused irregularities when I started to assemble the layout.  It was just a test to see if it could be done.  I haven't exactly given up on the idea, but not a high priority at the moment. 

Originally Posted by RideTheRails:

A few years ago I attempted to make a small layout out of card board (corrugated paper).  It was going to be a simple figure 8 under and over.  It was going to be built totally out of card board. I gave up on it because I couldn't find large enough sheets of card board. Also cardboard from different manufacturers is different thicknesses.  Places in the cardboard where folds occurred also caused irregularities when I started to assemble the layout.  It was just a test to see if it could be done.  I haven't exactly given up on the idea, but not a high priority at the moment. 

 

Go to a store that sells moving supplies...like u-haul...buy a king size mattress box...nice and new corrugated cardboard...clean, flat and uniform thickness...

 

Howard..

 

Last edited by sawdust43
Your choices should be focused on the type of track you're using. If you're trying to mitigate the sounds of Fastrack most of the niose comes from the resonating of the the plastic roadbed and without filling the void inside of it you're not going to quiet it down with any solid surface including quiet brace.
 
The best sound mitigation for fastrack is floating it over carpet. Quietbrace is good for traditional tubular and solid rail track:Lionel, Gargraves, Atlas...
 
 
Last edited by Matthew B.
Originally Posted by sawdust43:
Originally Posted by RideTheRails:

A few years ago I attempted to make a small layout out of card board (corrugated paper).  It was going to be a simple figure 8 under and over.  It was going to be built totally out of card board. I gave up on it because I couldn't find large enough sheets of card board. Also cardboard from different manufacturers is different thicknesses.  Places in the cardboard where folds occurred also caused irregularities when I started to assemble the layout.  It was just a test to see if it could be done.  I haven't exactly given up on the idea, but not a high priority at the moment. 

 

Go to a store that sells moving supplies...like u-haul...buy a king size mattress box...nice and new corrugated cardboard...clean, flat and uniform thickness...

 

Howard..

 

Thank you for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of that. To explain a little bit more.  I was trying to do this with house hold items or things that could be gotten cheap or free. Corrugated paper: almost all companies throw this stuff away but hopefully recycle it (no I'm not a tree huger). Therefore an almost endless supply and probably for free.  The idea being was to show beginners how to build a layout with in expensive items, maybe it would encourage them to build a layout and thus we get more people into the hobby.

Originally Posted by Salvagni:

Has anyone ever tried building the "deck" like a stud wall laid horizontally and stuffed with batt insulation?  wonder if that would work with sound absorption.

 

I didn't use batt insulation, but I placed 1/2" (I think) blue styrofoam under the layout between the joists. I can't say it was worth the trouble. The layout is a bit quieter, but not enough to get excited about. Toy trains are loud; sometimes they just aren't as loud. I glued them to the underside of the plywood using Liquid Nail Projects (I think the regular stuff attacks the foam) and then ran a few cable ties through both layers and used another tie underneath the cinch it in place. Perhaps if I went through and added some Great Stuff spray insulation around the edges that would help.

 

J White

 

 

 

I used OSB (7/16") for my underlayment (uniform strength in all directions) with 1/2" Quiet Brace loosely cemented on top. After considering GarGraves flex, I chose the good ol' tubular O gauge track so that the insulation board could absorb the noise; the 40" sections reduces the frequency of the clickity clack. I attached the track with #4 X 1 1/4"(?) panhead black screws but with a rubber washer next to the tie. Works like a charm. Between running at realistic speeds and the above system, my Hudson and my Northern w/o sound on, run amazingly quiet.

 

Wally

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