Painting A Brass GG-1 I Could Use Advice

Annnnd what the heck are you going to run this on? 

i use lacquer thinner and an old turkey roasting pan fill the pan with the thinner and let it soak. i leave the pan outside to avoid any problems with the fumes. usually a few hours takes most paints off.

LOL Is Scrappy a closet 3railer now? I bet he has some Atlas or other 3 rail track stashed away somewhere in Carmel.   

I think we may be seeing the first narrow gauge GG1

My way.....

I'd paint over the current paint is it is stable and in good condition. I'd lightly sand it with very high grit sanding pads and sticks.  Clean it up with soapy wayer....allow to dry.

I use Dupli-color gray sealer primer. Very thin non-filling primer.

Then the color coat.....but you didn't say what color you were going for. For PRR tuscan or green I'd use a RR color. Black or silver a good lacquer like Tamiya.

Another option if the paint is bad is silicon brake fluid, it works pretty well stripping paint, with the caveat that like any stripper be careful of plastic pieces....

If the current paint is in good shape, though, trying a respray may not be a bad idea, scruffing the surface lightly after making sure it is clean and free of oils and such then painting it may work and will save you some work. 

Get a couple of gallons of "dip" from the Judge....

Ben,

Me thinks the NJ HI-Railers layout may be seeing a certain re-painted brass GG-1 visiting on a regular basis.  Or that wild west gambling gunslinger just may be winning that land war with the varmints that shut down that railroad.  Either way I sense a typical Scrapper tale of exploits gone wrong while stripping the paint off that brass GG-1.

Coach Joe

I'd also suggest coating over the existing paint work if what's there is in good condition.  I'd caution against painting with lacquers over enamel based paint.  If the underlying enamel hasn't cured completely then wrinkling will occur.  Luckily, most recent factory paint jobs will accept overcoating in lacquer without incident.  Some stuff from the MPC era, not so much

  If there are defects in the original paint due to impurities under the surface ( tiny bubbles we've all seen now and then ) it's time to strip.  Since the wife uses Circa 1867 for furniture refinishing I use their stripper.  Another reason for stripping could be that subsequent coats of new paint might cover over fine detail.  It would probably be best to prime fresh metal with a 2 part automotive primer to assure a durable base to work with.  From there you can use whatever paint you desire without fear of incompatibility.

Bruce

Seriously,

Thanks to all who have made suggestions.

All of them are good.

Eliot

Eliot,

The offer is always good. Bring your GG1 and we'll run it on the RC3R Modular layout....

Gilly

I never strip the existing paint unless the surface is beat up or scratched or the paint surface is ruined and needs it.  I remove graphics with glue-gone/#400 sandpaper as need, and always prime if first, using Rustoleum primer.  I prefer the gray,s slightly less oily it seems to me than the maroon.  I let it harden two full days at least before sanding lightly and painting.  Never had anything turn out bad that I primed this way and then faollowed up with care on the repaint.  

One important note if you are going to paint over existing paint - be sure to sand off all stripes and graphics. Any remaining raised areas will show through the new paint. 

My personal preference is to strip all of the old paint off. That way I don't have additional layers of paint building up and covering fine detail, taking away their "crispness".

Just remember to never use this to strip a Thomas and Friends, Rudolph, or any other cartoon train.