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Well guys, I ran into a little problem with my last two foam board structures.  I have now found out that you have to do the acrylic painting the same way each time you do a new foam piece.  The last two sections I painted did not turn out to match my first large piece with the colors I was looking for.  Everything turned out too dark (I used too much black) and you can't lighten it up once paint has dried.  I believe this is why they don't match.......

 

The acrylic paints were not mixed or diluted with water the same as first batch

I made the mistake of letting section dry in sun instead of the shade

I forgot what order I applied the acrylic paints the first time.

 

Bottom line, I have do do every step the same and write down on paper exactly what I do or sections will not match.  Now I have to go back and paint the last two sections with my base tan latex paint and hope I get the acrylic mixes right this time.  Each section takes 2-3 days to finish due to drying time of paints.

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

Originally Posted by TexSpecial:

 ...and you can't lighten it up once paint has dried...

 

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

Steve,

 

Yes, you can to some extent. I don't believe that you did the drybrushing with full-strength off-white acrylics as the final step, like I suggested.

 

The drybrushing tends to bring everything together as well as highlighting the rock edges.

 

You can lighten rocks that are too dark by heavier drybrushing. Then do less drybrushing on the light rocks.

 

You don't want everything exactly the same anyway.

 

Before drybrushing:

 

db 002

 

After drybrushing:

 

db 001

Jim

Attachments

Images (2)
  • db  002
  • db  001
Originally Posted by Jim Policastro:
Originally Posted by TexSpecial:

 ...and you can't lighten it up once paint has dried...

 

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

Steve,

 

Yes, you can to some extent. I don't believe that you did the drybrushing with full-strength off-white acrylics as the final step, like I suggested.

 

The drybrushing tends to bring everything together as well as highlighting the rock edges.

 

You can lighten rocks that are too dark by heavier drybrushing. Then do less drybrushing on the light rocks.

 

You don't want everything exactly the same anyway.

 

Before drybrushing:

 

db 002

 

After drybrushing:

 

db 001

Jim

Jim, you are correct, I did not do the white dry brushing.  When I finished painting my first large section with acrylics, the colors turned out perfect, yellowish gray with just the right red highlights of the rock with burnt umber.  I was afraid to do the white dry brushing because it might ruin the color effect I had. 

 

When I did my second and third large sections together, instead of letting the acrylics dry like the first one inside, I let them dry in the sun and they did not have time to blend like the first section.  When the colors looked too light, I added black again and it just turned both sections too dark for the desert colors I wanted. 

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

Steve,

 

It's a giant leap of faith to take rocks that are the color you want and go ahead and start drybrushing.

 

It was years before I finally tried it; now I wouldn't consider a scene finished unless it was drybrushed.

 

The trick is that the brush should have practically no paint on it. Wipe it on a rag first. Then whisk just the bristles over the rocks.

 

As you practice, you will be able to achieve different effects, such as lightening those too dark rocks. You will also learn just how much paint should be on the brush.

 

It's sort of like weathering - stop before you think you've applied enough.

 

Jim

Originally Posted by Jim Policastro:

Steve,

 

It's a giant leap of faith to take rocks that are the color you want and go ahead and start drybrushing.

 

It was years before I finally tried it; now I wouldn't consider a scene finished unless it was drybrushed.

 

The trick is that the brush should have practically no paint on it. Wipe it on a rag first. Then whisk just the bristles over the rocks.

 

As you practice, you will be able to achieve different effects, such as lightening those too dark rocks. You will also learn just how much paint should be on the brush.

 

It's sort of like weathering - stop before you think you've applied enough.

 

Jim

Jim, this is what I will do.  I still have my first "test" foam formation and I will do the dry brushing with white to see how it goes.  This way I can at least experiment with the technique.

 

Another question I forgot to ask you.  When I have a section completed with acrylic's, grasses, etc., do you spray a protective coating over the whole structure like with artist flat clear.

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

Steve,

 

For those Texas rocks make sure you pick an off-white with a slight hint of yellow to keep the colors warm. I've used acrylics named ivory, or rice, or cream for scenes such as yours. You don't want a pure white.

 

I don't spray anything over the finished scene.

 

The white glue or matte medium will hold everything solidly in place. The trick is to make sure it is applied generously enough to penetrate all your ground cover to secure it.

 

The latex and acrylic paints that color your rocks are also all you need in the way of a final finish.

 

Jim

Originally Posted by Jim Policastro:

Steve,

 

For those Texas rocks make sure you pick an off-white with a slight hint of yellow to keep the colors warm. I've used acrylics named ivory, or rice, or cream for scenes such as yours. You don't want a pure white.

 

I don't spray anything over the finished scene.

 

The white glue or matte medium will hold everything solidly in place. The trick is to make sure it is applied generously enough to penetrate all your ground cover to secure it.

 

The latex and acrylic paints that color your rocks are also all you need in the way of a final finish.

 

Jim

Thanks Jim, I think I will mix up some off white myself and try it.  I found an acrylic paint called bronze yellow which leaves a perfect color when blended with the other colors I use.  I put on all colors wet starting with the lightest and when it dried slowly the colors blended into colors which matched the photo's I copied of the SW Texas desert.  I was surprised to see how well my rock formations turned out with the foam once I used the right tools.

 

I will use wet water to make sure grass, dirt, etc are well saturated with the glue mixture.  I'm not going to use too much green, mostly light brown, redish and yellow grass.  I have also made "scrub" trees which grow in this area of Texas.  Once I get the foam sections done, everything else will blend in pretty good.  Wait until you see my custom Camp Crockett Army station, the center piece of my Army base and yard.

 

Again, I appreciate all your kind assistance and information.

 

Steve, Lady and Tex

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