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Hello guys and gals............

 

I bought the RMT "Beep" last July.  Tonight is the first time I ran it for long time (2 1/2 hours run time) and I was impressed with its performance with such a low amp draw with 10 Lionel cars and by itself too.  The Beep drawn 0.3 @ amp at 13 volts by itself and 0.3 @ amp at 13 volts WITH 10 cars !!!!.  I took the shell off to inspect the motors if they got hot or worse but this is NOT the case, the motors are still cool much to my surprise (using my fingers to touch the motor cases).  The Beep's speed is still a slow poke and with the cars the Beep can just walk slowly that I can count the ties it passes.  I thought it couldn't pull anymore than 4 cars but instead it walked way with 10 !!!.  I was using Z-4000 for power and realtrax 0-72 and 30 inch straights.  It is outstanding diesel for its 4 tiny wheels and one wheel has traction tire leaving 3 wheels for electrical pick-up. I was using Red and Tacky #2 grease for the gears.  I was expecting the tiny motors to get hot as they are small but didn't even get warm yet !!!  Its a wonderful LITTLE engine and I am so glad to purchase it. That Beep made a big impression on me !!!  Have any of you guys have their Beeps perform so well like mine did, if so tell us about it.

 

the woman who loves the S.F.5011,2678,2003,200

Tiffany

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I have 2 Beeps......I use my OGR Commemorative one as helper engine......its red and white colors complements my Christmas train and it advertises the major O Gauge hobby magazine and the hobby which is what we are trying to do at shows. Its drawbar pull of 0.3 lbs is just what I need to help my Lionel Christmas 440.

 

 

IMG_2029

 

 

Sorry, that I don't have better shots.

 

Peter

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All of mine perform well, particularly if you run two or more and tether them so they share electrical pickups.  They run slow enough, smoothly, to be realistic, pull well, and are fairly bulletproof (I've had one out of about twenty stock and bashed ones give problems).  

 

I have bought several and custom-decorated them as Christmas presents for friends : I paint them Christmas colors with the family's name on the unit and put small figures representing everyone in the family and their pets on the running boards, etc.  I use only BEEPS for this because because I know they are durable and reliable.

I have a couple of BEEPs, mine have both been converted to command with sound.  I don't have the same pulling power as I have replaced the single traction tire with a standard wheel for better reliability on the club layout with only one common track.  I did add weight to help with traction.  Mine will pull half a dozen modern freight cars, any more and you get "real world" wheel slip.

 

The newer BEEP version re. 2011+ production had a different circuit board that allowed a faster speed (up to 42mph) and also had molex plugs on each end that would mate with other so-equipped BEEPs and BEEFs to allow at least 6 metal wheel pickups + 2 traction tire equipped wheels.

NOTE: No matter how 'fast' you increase voltage with your power supply, BEEPs will only go so fast. Scale 25mph on original and 42mph on upgraded versions. Trying to 'push' too much voltage can damage the circuit board.

Hopefully, BEEPs will return some day. They are neat little locomotives that offer alot of kit-bash ability in addition to being great runners.

2011 APPROVED RM924xx Wiring Diagram[1] AUGUST-02-2011

BEEP-WMM

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This seems like a good thread to ask this on...my BEEP has started running very jerkily, for want of a better word.  I'm cleaned the wheels and rollers, and suspect that I might need to lube the gears, but I have no idea how to access them!  Got the shell off, but I'm mystified as to how to go further.  Also, if there are any other things I should check I'd appreciate knowing it.  Thanks

Greg

The pre-2011 RMT BEEPS are woefully slow.  Like watching paint dry.

For guys like me, who like to run two trains off of one transformer throttle at a time, this means that if you the BEEP on the track, you really can't put any normal loco on the same tracks, because you have to turn up the throttle to full blast to get the BEEP moving, and your other loco will fly off the tracks.

Mannyrock

@Mase Senior posted:

This seems like a good thread to ask this on...my BEEP has started running very jerkily, for want of a better word.  I'm cleaned the wheels and rollers, and suspect that I might need to lube the gears, but I have no idea how to access them!  Got the shell off, but I'm mystified as to how to go further.  Also, if there are any other things I should check I'd appreciate knowing it.  Thanks

Greg

If you want to lube the worm, take the bottom plate off and the gears are exposed.  The motors are solidly mounted to the frame, so it's easy to access the gears for lube.

If anybody wants a detailed list of the post-2011 improved RMT Beeps, which run at a much more normal speed, then just e-mail me.   I also posted this list on this site last year, so you might be able to find it using the search function.

As mentioned last year, when RMT shut down, they dumped a large number of the older BEEPs from their inventory on the market.   So, lots of the NIB Beeps you saw advertised last year were the old, super slow, ones.  Of course, if you like super slow diesels, then that is another story.

Gunrunner, the improved BEEPS have a much more dense, crowded- circuit board, and one of the upright round cylinder objects on it actually gets "crunshed down" a bit when you put the shell on.    Is there any room on these board to add the sound function?  Or, is it just too crowded?

Thanks,

Mannyrock

Adding sound to a Beep is an interesting challenge. Like many forum members, I have a number of Beeps, all of which run well. One approach would be a trailing car containing the motor and sound electronics and a speaker with the Beep modified for external motor power. I have used this many times with small engines but never with a Beep. Placing everything inside a Beep would be a very interesting project.

In the top of the cab.  The baffles on the side were to make somewhat of a "cab" for the engineer.  I drilled a bunch of holes in the frame for the sound.  It's not as loud as it could be, but for it's size, it does pretty well.

The board on the left is for all the lighting components and the latching relay controlled by the coupler outputs for an extra lighting control.

Here's the whole thread on the upgrade, hard to believe that was eight years ago!

Cruise Commander Lite Beta Test, Part Deux

BEEP with Cruise & RS5 N7

I really like my little Beeps that I've had for several years.  I use them on my around the room ceiling tracks.  They're running on 0-27 track with 0-42 curves.  Being slow is great for me because there's no chance of them flying off the track at high speeds.  There is only powered engine on each track.  The second engine is a dummy that I made from extra shells.

My tracks are powered from an old American Flyer transformer running about 12 volts each.

2022-03-07 003

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RMT BEEPS
@boomer0622 posted:

I really like my little Beeps that I've had for several years.  I use them on my around the room ceiling tracks.  They're running on 0-27 track with 0-42 curves.  Being slow is great for me because there's no chance of them flying off the track at high speeds.  There is only powered engine on each track.  The second engine is a dummy that I made from extra shells.



My tracks are powered from an old American Flyer transformer running about 12 volts each.



What frame did you use for the dummy engines? I have a couple extra shells too.

@boomer0622 posted:

RSJB18,   I just used 1/4"  plywood and mounted a pair of old trucks,  I also cut a small block of wood to simulate fuel tanks.   To attach the shell to the plywood I used  small screws and inserted them through the fuel port on each side.

If you would like a picture of it, I can post one later this evening.

Doug

No need. I thought maybe you used a caboose chassis. Very creative.

Thanks

Interesting speaker mountings in those command control installations in Beeps. I have found that with installations that include sound, the speaker and its placement was critical to the sound quality and output level. When I looked at the Beeps, it did not seem obvious where the speaker should be located. One thought I had was underneath the frame between the two trucks which is where a lot of speakers are positioned in larger diesels.

@BOB WALKER posted:

When I looked at the Beeps, it did not seem obvious where the speaker should be located. One thought I had was underneath the frame between the two trucks which is where a lot of speakers are positioned in larger diesels.

No doubt that the speaker mount may not be optimum for sound quality, but it's the only place it fit.  I did toy with a much smaller speaker, but I found that a larger one mounted in the roof had better sound, so that's where it ended up.

In any case, mounting the speaker between the wheels is a non-starter, that space was already spoken for by essential components!

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