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I'm starting to plan my first train layout in ~30 years.  I'm thinking about doing something similar to the kid-friendly layout in the December 2015 issue of CTT.  The basic idea is:

* 7x14 feet, with a duck under and cutout in the center, made up of 4 rectangular pieces of plywood cut from 3 4x8 sheets.

* The rear portion of the layout is covered with a mountain with a second level of track (no grades on layout).  This mountain/second level spans 3 of the pieces of plywood that make up the lower level.

Ideally, I would like to have the layout on wheels so I can move it a little bit for construction and maintenance (to build a layout this size I will need to put it in a corner).  And I would like to be able to take it apart without destroying it if I ever move.  I am not going to disassemble it on a regular basis, I would just like to be able to break it into pieces that will fit through a door and put it back together again if I ever need to do that at some point down the road (like if I move, which I have no plans to do in the foreseeable future).

I can think of some crazy ways to go about building this which may or may not work, and which I'm pretty sure would be laughed at by someone who has actually built a "large" layout before (I know this isn't large by O-gauge standards, but the layouts of my youth were 4x8 HO).  Can anyone give me a starting point for how to approach the benchwork, given the desires above?  Or am I asking for too much here?

Thanks for any advice.

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Suggest you check out Mianne Customized Benchwork, a well regarded forum sponsor.

Tim can substitute caster wheels for the screw leg levers to make you layout movable. His construction will also be much lighter without sacrificing strength. The benchwork can be assembled in just a few hours and you will quickly be on to the next step. A turn of a few cams will enable the benchwork to be taken apart, reconfigured or added on to.

http://miannebenchwork.com/

Last edited by Cape Cod Northern

Unless you plan to connect your "modules" to other people's modules, what you really want is a "sectional" layout. In simple terms, there are two main parts to any layout; the bench work and everything above the bench work. Mianne is certainly a viable option for bench work. It is super easy to assemble, modify and disassemble. Some think it's on the expensive side, but I think it's comparable to others if one compares it to similar quality lumber/hardware and considers the time involved in construction. I'm going the DIY route using less expensive 2x4s,etc., for my small 5x8x10 "L" shaped permanent holiday layout. I intend to have 7 legs on wheels so I too can move it out of a corner for maintenance, etc.

That said, any bench work put together with mechanical fasteners (as opposed to glue) can be disassembled, so what type of bench work you use depends on time, money and know-how.  IMHO, your challenge will be break everything above the bench work into sections that it can also be disassembled somewhat easily. Unlike modular design, the bench work and top sections don't have to share the same footprint.  

To that end, Mianne and other bench methods, like L-girder, are designed so that the plywood underlayment can be attached from the bottom. That way no fasteners are covered by landscaping and the "top" sections can be removed fairly easily by removing the fasteners below. As many people have shown, track laid over seams can be cut so sections can be removed, the hard part is the landscaping. Most people don't want to see seams all over their layout and there are a number of techniques that can be used to hide the seams between sections.

Multiple levels add to the complexity. Like your layout, mine is also going to have multiple levels that are not connected. Since no grades are involved, mu plan tis to divide the 2nd level into sections that can be lifted off. It will have upside down "L" risers, so the base of the riser can be fastened from below the first level and then the top of the second level can also be fastened from below through the "L" part of the riser.

Since my layout will be a permanent winter landscape, it will be kind of easy to hide seams on the "batten" I'll be using for snow and if a road crosses a seam, I may attach the road with Velcro so it can be removed. The point is to think of ways to arrange landscaping over seams so they can be less obtrusive than a saw cut. If a hill crosses a seam, you can put 2 pieces of wax paper or something between  the 2 sections as you build the hill and then remove the paper after everything dries. Pieces, like rock outcroppings can be overlapped so the seams are mostly hidden.

bajinnova posted:

I'm starting to plan my first train layout in ~30 years.  I'm thinking about doing something similar to the kid-friendly layout in the December 2015 issue of CTT.  The basic idea is:

Well, most of us can't view the article - but the index states" affordable and compact"

* 7x14 feet, with a duck under and cutout in the center, made up of 4 rectangular pieces of plywood cut from 3 4x8 sheets.

which 7' x 14 is not compact, so you want a layout that the kids can use. Was the center area all open for the kids to stand in?

Anyway that you photo the design and post it?

* The rear portion of the layout is covered with a mountain with a second level of track (no grades on layout).  This mountain/second level spans 3 of the pieces of plywood that make up the lower level.

It's a little more to work to make removable or portable scenery or track supports, but it's not that difficult.

Ideally, I would like to have the layout on wheels so I can move it a little bit for construction and maintenance (to build a layout this size I will need to put it in a corner).  And I would like to be able to take it apart without destroying it if I ever move.  I am not going to disassemble it on a regular basis, I would just like to be able to break it into pieces that will fit through a door and put it back together again if I ever need to do that at some point down the road (like if I move, which I have no plans to do in the foreseeable future).

I see 4 x 42" by 84" sections and 4 pieces of ply. (Unless you want a large opening in the center.) The sections can clamp together. The wiring can connect with connectors. Each section will have it's own wiring. Putting wheels on it requires some more framing for stability of the legs. The wheels can be done.

I can think of some crazy ways to go about building this which may or may not work, and which I'm pretty sure would be laughed at by someone who has actually built a "large" layout before (I know this isn't large by O-gauge standards, but the layouts of my youth were 4x8 HO).  Can anyone give me a starting point for how to approach the benchwork, given the desires above?  Or am I asking for too much here?

You are not asking too much. It would be really helpful if you created a penciled sketch of the table and the track flow and posted it.

Thanks for any advice.

 

Moonman posted:
bajinnova posted:

I'm starting to plan my first train layout in ~30 years.  I'm thinking about doing something similar to the kid-friendly layout in the December 2015 issue of CTT.  The basic idea is:

Well, most of us can't view the article - but the index states" affordable and compact"

* 7x14 feet, with a duck under and cutout in the center, made up of 4 rectangular pieces of plywood cut from 3 4x8 sheets.

which 7' x 14 is not compact, so you want a layout that the kids can use. Was the center area all open for the kids to stand in?

Anyway that you photo the design and post it?

* The rear portion of the layout is covered with a mountain with a second level of track (no grades on layout).  This mountain/second level spans 3 of the pieces of plywood that make up the lower level.

It's a little more to work to make removable or portable scenery or track supports, but it's not that difficult.

Ideally, I would like to have the layout on wheels so I can move it a little bit for construction and maintenance (to build a layout this size I will need to put it in a corner).  And I would like to be able to take it apart without destroying it if I ever move.  I am not going to disassemble it on a regular basis, I would just like to be able to break it into pieces that will fit through a door and put it back together again if I ever need to do that at some point down the road (like if I move, which I have no plans to do in the foreseeable future).

I see 4 x 42" by 84" sections and 4 pieces of ply. (Unless you want a large opening in the center.) The sections can clamp together. The wiring can connect with connectors. Each section will have it's own wiring. Putting wheels on it requires some more framing for stability of the legs. The wheels can be done.

I can think of some crazy ways to go about building this which may or may not work, and which I'm pretty sure would be laughed at by someone who has actually built a "large" layout before (I know this isn't large by O-gauge standards, but the layouts of my youth were 4x8 HO).  Can anyone give me a starting point for how to approach the benchwork, given the desires above?  Or am I asking for too much here?

You are not asking too much. It would be really helpful if you created a penciled sketch of the table and the track flow and posted it.

Thanks for any advice.

Edit: You don't have an email shown in your profile.

 

 

Ok, here's what I have for you for the table framing and sheet cuts. I am not sure if there is enough left over to build the complete upper deck.

The framing would be like this : 2 - 4' x 7' tables and 2' - 2' x 6' tables. That leaves an opening in the center of 3' x 6'.

Bajinnova_Tables_Framing

The larger tables can use 6 legs (on the long sides) and the smaller tables, in the center, can be bolted to the larger table, with perhaps, one leg each side in the center.

The seven foot width of the table will allow O72 curves. That would permit running any train. (scale or semi-scale)

The sheet cuts would leave 3 pieces of 1' x 4' sheet cut-offs. (cut to length first) You can use those to make the center smaller (less kid friendly, so I say no).

It doesn't seem to be enough to support the elevated track. So, there's the trick, how to support the elevated loop.

Bajinnova_Table_Sheets

I hope that gets you started.

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Images (2)
  • Bajinnova_Tables_Framing
  • Bajinnova_Table_Sheets
Last edited by Moonman

Ok, I have one solution - lay the elevated loop of O31 track on the cutoffs and trace them to cut 3" sub-road. Then attach all of those together and support with 2" x 4" cut-offs. I am working on the fitment. The 2 -12" x  48" cut-offs will cover 12 curves. The 24" x 48" cut-off would be ripped to 12". One and half of those cutoffs would handle the elevated straights as a 12" wide piece for the center. The remaining piece would cover the last two curves and the 2 starights for the turn-around loop.

You can close the ends in or leave it all open.

Here is my version of the track plan. The rail joints end at the table edges. The track on those tables stay with it, like a modular system. This is in Lionel O tubular. O72 outer with 6' passing siding, O54 inner and an O31 elevated. That permits separating the four tables.

 

Attachments

Images (3)
  • Bajinnova_Layout_Track_Plan
  • Bajinnova_Layout_3D_1
  • Bajinnova_Layout_3D_2
Last edited by Moonman
Moonman posted:

Oops, thanks Dave. They are 84 in SCARM, just mislabeled.

Dave, he'll need your gusset and leg diagram. he wants wheels also.

I could see that they were the correct size and only labeled wrong.

I will be more than happy to share the gusset/leg design I put together based on a combination of diagrams posted here if the OP wants to see it.

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