Skip to main content

It did not start out well, first off, my re-powered Lionel Legacy CB&Q dummy A-unit would not run, flashing cab lights. Next, I roached a rectifier on my Leading A unit now there is no sound luckily its only 47 cents for the rectifier and I had another set of locos to pull the Zephyr with. Then I blew an internal fuse in my TIU, good thing I cut holes in the TIU to get at those fuses(I would like to take a moment to let MTH know that putting those fuses inside the TIU was the dumbest design I have ever seen). In between my layout meltdown I did get this nice video

 

 

Attachments

Videos (1)
IMG_4261
Last edited by OGR CEO-PUBLISHER
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Why yes David I already have them on order. I do have 13 cars and a Zephyr train was really ony 11 with the PRR car it was 12. I do have the PRR car(one with the black roof) I bought cuz why the heck not. But now Ive got to get my CB&Q Legacy F3's to work right. My train meltdown today really irritates me, I should have just taken a nap

Art, I had all kinds of derailing issues and at one point while I was running with my amp meter to see if I was over drawing with such a big train, FYI ONLY 5.25 amps with all lights and smoke, I dropped a coupler and accidentally crashed into the back of the Obs car and broke some part off,  I did not have an issue with snagging any thing but I did have just about every other problem a guy could have.

Originally Posted by Matt Makens:

Then I blew an internal fuse in my TIU, good thing I cut holes in the TIU to get at those fuses(I would like to take a moment to let MTH know that putting those fuses inside the TIU was the dumbest design I have ever seen).

 

 

 

Another candidate maybe? Last week went to replace the tires on two Lionel and MTH diesels that spit off tires. Had to remove cabs, disassemble motor from truck, hold truck while it is still connected to chassis by the pick up wire to remove side frames from truck to replace tires because the mounting screws are on top of the truck and face the frame rather than being accessible from below...

From others on here the Lionel tire behind cylinder on scale steamers is another gem.

 

Your idea to make them easily reachable thru TIU cover rather than having to remove it is great. 

Last edited by Lima
Originally Posted by Matt Makens:
The train is about 28 feet long

Wow, how big is the layout?

 

I just realized how many cars were in your train and how many 21" cars I own-gonna need a bigger layout plan 

 

Originally Posted by Hot Water:
Originally Posted by Matt Makens:
This is what all my TIU's look like

I use automotive "fast blow" in-line 10AMP fuse on the output of every single channel on both of my TIU devices. Thus, that 10AMP fuse blows prior to doing any damage to a TIU channel.

Now that's an excellent idea.

Hot Water, fuses on my outputs are on my list of shtuff to do but the more I work the longer the list gets. The layout is 16 by 55 feet without the turntable and crows nest its 16 by about 47. I don't get a ton of working time in the layout since it's not at my house, heck it's not even in my state but I try to get in about 40 hours a month if I'm lucky

So if I am understanding you right, Kadees are much more forgiving than I was lead to believe. My track does have a bit of up and down in it due to the Homasoat, is this an significant issue with Kadees? I have ZERO experience with Kadees on O scale, the make a great product but until I saw yoru layout it never occurred to me to put them on three rail trains. I was told my somebody that Kadees were really finicky with up and down ont he track so stay with the lobster claws

I only blow fuses when I have a consecutive series of breaker trips on the 180 watt brick, almost always associated with derailment issues. This time I derailed like 7 times coming through a switch until I blew the fuse. I should be noted that I haven't ran the layout in like 4 months. Bowing the internal fuse is a rarity and its only happened twice in the last 3 years. It was just such a huge pain to get at the fuse I decided I never wanted to deal with having to pull them off the wall and take them apart.

Originally Posted by Matt Makens:

So if I am understanding you right, Kadees are much more forgiving than I was lead to believe. My track does have a bit of up and down in it due to the Homasoat, is this an significant issue with Kadees? I have ZERO experience with Kadees on O scale, the make a great product but until I saw yoru layout it never occurred to me to put them on three rail trains. I was told my somebody that Kadees were really finicky with up and down ont he track so stay with the lobster claws

Who ever told you such bs apparently had no experience with O-Scale Kadee couplers. Not only did I not have any problems with Kadees on our old modular layout, even with 21" long scale Golden Gate Depot heavyweight passenger cars (an 11 car CB&Q set), I operated fairly long & heavy freight trains (50 cars or more) and never had a "failed" Kadee coupler. I previously used all #805 metal Kadees, but now occasionally use the new more "scale looking" #740.

My widest radius is O-82 and that's what I'm running them on. Funny thing is the broken coupler is the only problem I've had with the cars themselves. Derailing issues was due to a bent point in a turnout, other issues were the locos. This train is sweet I just need to run more. I spend so much time working that I never just stop n run trains

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×