Question about Gargraves

Lee:  Possible cure for front wheels jumping track at switch points.  Check that ther flange of the wheel on the inside of the cirve isn't hitting the tip of the point that's open.  After years of getting pounded by locos hitting the curve, the older style Gargraves, the type without what appears to be cast points, tends to have the points spread apart slightly.  It appears to me that the rail appears to cant outwards.  Can take some tricky bending so as not to pop the rivet.

If anyone know how to rebuild Gargraves switches to have the new type points, I'd love to hear how.

Have you considered Ross models 100 and 101 which are an exact match for the old Gargraves switches?  I can't imagine trying to convert the old style GG to the new style.

Lehigh.  Yes, but there is such a differential between the going prices for Ross and Gargraves that I only use other-than-Gargraves when a size is not available from Gargraves.  I have a few double curved switches that I believe are Curtis or Ross-Curtis.  I had some double-curved that were RightOfWay but they were such junk they had to be replaced.

RJR - That's what I do.  I have one Ross double curve 72/54 switch and the rest are Gargraves.  I'm considering another Ross double curve and figured while I am at it, I might just get a few Ross replacements for some old GG switches.  But instead I may get Gargraves 103/104 (100" radius) and cut the adjacent track back and inch or so.

Is it possible to file the points down with a dremel motor and sanding wheel?

Lee Fritz

I doubt it.  The points on older Gargraves are thin enough, without making it thinner.  From use, the top bends outward.  You must bend it more vertical, not straining the rivet so it doesn't pop out.   What you're trying to do is get the other point further from the other outside rail.

Frankly, I can't understand how any engine, at any speed traverses this type of construction without some sort of violent reaction.  Certainly I'm not the only one who notices that the transition into the diverging route is so sudden that it appears angular rather than curved.  This seems to be the norm with Ross and GG turnouts.  Any wonder there's points fatigue and derailing?

Bruce

Here you go, Bruce   Seems to do a pretty good job.  Switches are controlled, DZ 1000 switch machines via a Lionel SC-2 controller/Cab 1 remote. There are also DZ 1001 lighted push button. (2) parallel sets of push buttons, one set on either side of the large "Y" module.   Unit is a Rich Yoder GE 44 tonner converted to TMCC with an ERR upgrade kit/sound and custom electro-couplers.   There are (2) Ross 204 three-way switches.  Click on the triangle for a short video.

If you look closely you will see that the Ross 204 three way is a #4 switch, but we had the #5 switches before we started this remodel project.  The #5's are slightly less angled, custom matched, in the crossover. Track spacing, center to center, is 4 1/4".

Bruce, what you say is very true if the curve is sharp.  On a Gargraves 100" radius switch, there is little impact.  But note that the same holds true on a full-size railroad.

STudying the photos of the 3-way switch, if switch is set to one curve, and you want train to take the other curve, it appears that you have to throw both motors in a specific order.  Correct?

My train club has a three way switch. True, you have to throw two motors before entering the switch. There is no order that the switches are to be thrown as long as both are in the correct position when finished. For my club, I wired up a couple of relays so that with a double throw-double pole- center off switch you can select left, right and center.

Based on a recommendation from a fellow modeler we chose Gargraves track and Ross switches. It was a good decision. We (the Siouxland Historic Railroad Assn) aka (www.milwaukerailroadshops.org) have an 8 x 32' layout with an 88" and 80" outside loops with a 3 track yard, a loop for a town to wrap around, and engine facility at the other. I chose to use already curved track at each end which was a good decision. Trains run well.

Dick

Lee, new development.  I have a 100" radius switch that certain cars would derail on, the wheel on the outside of the curve jumping the frog.  All of a sudden, a new loco pilot starting derailing on it.  I found that the loco's pilot wheels had spread on the axle, causing the wheels to be too far apart and getting squeezed over the frog.  Squeezed the wheels closer together and problem went away.

That got me think, and I discovered that the problem cars, mostly very old Lionel, had broader gauges at the flange base than modern MTH cars.  I pulled out my digital micrometer calipers and found that the distance between the frog inside rail and the opposite inside of the outside rail was 1.22", vice the 1.27 of the standard Gragraves track.  I moved the rail opposite the frog to broaden the gauge slightly, and also moved the guard rail.  I ran everything I have over the switch today, and had no derailments.

I suggest you precisely check the gauge between the frog and the rail where the cars derail.

Ross and Gargraves gives you endless possibilities. No other brand can you get four way, three, switches on curves and have track that can bend anyway you build it. I build my roadway first then lay track to fit. Much easier. Don