Question for Joseph Frank

(7) How and what method did you use to convert your Atlas trolley car to scale wheels? I see the axles are 3/32 diameter on those trucks. Thanks.

Hello Tommy !! --

 

Well, what you ask would require a small book to really fully answer - but I will try to keep it manageble here !

 

To answer your  questions in order per your numbers :

 

(1) -- This may take one or two months from initial research to finished operating model; Depending upon my available time. Actual building of, constructing  the model usually takes about roughly 100 hours or so approx. from start to finished ready to run product....over a period af a few weeks time....going thru ALL the various processes and multiples of steps outlined further below;

 

In my case, there is a lot of pre-planning that goes into making a scale model of an O-Scale Rapid Transit Elevated Car (usually a wooden-body vehicle built before WWII) and a "steel" replicated subway car of either pre or post war era.  Remember, I produce all such with scale proper full underbody components / details and trucks pertinent to a particular car, body style and series-class, etc.,  as well as scale prototype replicated interior (seats, route signs, ads, motorman cabs where required, interior bulkheads, etc)

 

Being I was, among other professional careers,  a draftsman (and drew plans, blueprints , etc) long ago, and still do use my skills in such for modeling, and other construction-type-projects  I draw a SCALE master plan of the carbody (or structure) I want to construct. 

 

This applied to my earlier HO modeling (1960's-1980's) and likewise to my present O- Scale modeling.  I research the proper measurements (width, length, height, etc.,) for the body shell,   and the railhead top to floor-line height, from many old  tech sources I already have or sometimes have to  locate.  I also research countless photos depicting the exterior details, interior details and proper underbody components / proper trucks for the car, under construction for needed details info.

 

I then research my now old Q-Car Co. parts catalogs for the proper interior and underbody details, components, hardware, trucks, etc., required, as most of same usually have been produced and supplied by Q-Car Company thru the past 30 years of my being in O-Scale.  Many detail-items I also have to scratch build also for certain cars.

 

Finally comes the painting of all aspects of the car - after research for the appropriate era-colors. Seats and some interior details, such as motorman cabs, interior bulkheads and etc., are pre-painted BEFORE installation.  The interior walls are painted first, and the exterior walls follow.  The removable, separate floors, with its pre-installed underbody details, are also painted as one unit.

 

(2) -- I have variously used  smooth surface (no grain or "hairs" ) cardstock of various thicknesses, as well as styrene-sheet stock, and wood as well a "index card" stock, for both carbuilding and details to be fabricated such as motorman cabs,  many hand-built seats and supports, interior partitions and bulkheads.  Some "steel" pre-war IRT subway cars were built completely with smooth-finish cardstock for the walls, ends, with wood or styrene strips used as hidden interior floorline and roofline reinforcements (called "sills") - and have used 3x5 index card stock to laboriously cut all panels and plates from that material and then hand punched  "rivets"  into that material.  The rivets are carefully counted and lined up on such multiple pre-cut sections, components, as accurate as humanly possible, using scores of old photos of the real cars to ascertain such rivet count numbers and alignment and  placement details.  These "rivited" panels are then carefully aligned and glued to the cardstock sub-surface main-strength cardstock (or styrene in some cases) walls of the car body.  A quite tedious, laborious job for anyone who builds rivited body traction (or any rivited) rail cars !

 

For Wooden bodied cars (like early EL cars) I used either Evergreen Styrene or Northwestern Scale Wood "Scribed or Batten Board" sheets,  with the proper length and height sized exterior siding panels cut out from those sheets.  Window posts and their window frames  are made assembly line and installed assembly line, one by one.

 

(3) -- Carbody construction in my shops,  usually begins with the "below beltrail" (for pre-war old stock) carbody lower exterior wall siding, whether it being a wood sided car or a simulated steel riveted sided car.  Two lower-sides are first made and detailed as needed.  Then using a photocopied copy of my "master" scale drawn carbody  side drawing plan,  I lay the sides on top of the scale photocopy of the carbody side drawing, and then carefully lay out, and install,  EACH and ever window post, finishing with the upper body top letterboard panel, whatever, to complete the full sides.  I then install the window frame vertical frame strips, and then the horizontal top, bottom and center sash window frame strips.  And install any additional exterior details such as door indicator lamps, or as on my 5 IRT EL MUDC converted EL cars,  the exterior hung and installed side sliding end doors and upper roller (dummy) assembly covers. I then construct the car end walls and storm doors as 3 separate components,  frame them and make a complete one-unit car end for each end of the car.

 

Once that is done,  I spray paint the interior side first, and when dry, paint the exterior side.  I generally use spray paint.  Some roofs for some of my IRT and BMT Wooden EL cars were provided as "separate epoxy resin body parts" by Q-Car company decades ago as a favor to me, which I paid per-piece for of course  then - derived from his (now long discontinued) O-Scale Manhattan EL Open-End-Platform 6-4-6 window body style car production line components long ago produced. These car bodies were cast by Q-Car Co., in separate molds as all separate kit-like parts;  ends, sides, roofs, end platforms,  etc) and these cast resin body parts then carefully assembled into completed body-shells by (Quentin) Q Car Co. and primed PRIOR to sale as complete body shells.  That was the process way back then..

 

The "Manhattan EL Car" product Roofs I ordered, were then modified where needed (made higher or longer) and clerestory vents changed, replaced, to suit a certain car style.

 

Quite a number of my subway and EL car roofs are also fully scratch built, following somewhat, the framing and design construction of roofs of the prototype cars.  I do have a small few Q-Car Co. Product EL CAR 6-4-6 window car resin body shells that I purchased in the 1984-6 period and finished up to completion.  Most other IRT and BMT El car bodies I have were fully scratch built.  Of course, again "almost" all finishing details and parts were provided by Q Car Co., for all of them, except those "specialized" details and parts I had to hand create.

 

(4)-- When I  scratchbuilt my nine Q Type EL Cars back in 2001-2, (long before I tech-support-guided MTH to produce their own production run Q-Type EL cars) -  and also built my IRT EL MUDC class 5 cars, I did build them as assembly line process. 

 

IE: 5 IRT EL MUDC type Cars needed 10 car body sides, 20 end sliding exterior side doors, ten storm doors, 6 motorman cabs for 3 motor cars, 10 complete Advertising car card strips (all those I custom created myself) for above the window interiors of 5 cars, 2 strips per car; and so on.  I assembly-line mass produced each category of components -- IE:  all the exterior-side sliding doors were built at once;  all door track top cover assemblies, 4 per car, 20 in total, were next done at once;  then all 10 storm doors done at once, 10 door indicate lights for 5 cars,  20 "MUDC door control boxes" for 5 cars, 4 per car, and etc., etc.,

 

Lastly,  10 carbody ends each consisting of a separately built left side and right side end face and its large end window, along with the installed, as previously made, center storm door,  so as to be a complete fully assembled carbody "end face" assembly.

 

And numerous multiples of other repetetive very small details used on each car !

 

On single one-of-a kind Wooden EL and pre-war replicated-steel subway cars, of course,  all window posts and side posts are mass produced at once first, as are the two vertical window frame strips, and top and bottom (and center sash) horizontal window frame pieces.  Then installed into the semi-completed car sides with their window posts already previously installed..

 

ALL subway and EL cars have 1/8" think BASS wood floors cut to fit the bodies.

 

Of course, my M-o-W work cars (I have quite many) are generally scratchbuilt-made as one specific model each, such as my 3 different style hand built, fully working TA crane cars,  my hand built GE50T Diesel Work Loco,  some flat cars, and etc. 

 

(5) -- For more dependable and fully trouble free reliable operation, all my cars are built to run on 2-Rail SCALE profile track and operate that way as far as electrical pickup and return (thru all wheels).  My "3rd Rail" is patterened after IRT or BMT "elevated" style early uncovered 3rd rail - closer to the track, and a bit higher than subway type 3rd rail.  My 3rd rail is wired for either LIVE or DORMANT  (dummy) mode with a changeover switch. In "LIVE" mode,  the running rails on that track also become both grounded as negative,  with the 3rd rail being HOT positive.  At some train shows, back in the late 1980's, when the entire huge modular-segment-built EL layout was brought there via a 24 foot box truck,  fellow modeler Vern Gillman did operate some of his outside 3rd rail powered O-Scale subway cars on my layout (running on a designated local track on my EL) using the insulated 3rd rail operating shoes fitted on his cars, sliding on and powered by my LIVE 3rd rail.  THAT capabiity for shows (and layout visitors who possibly may also have had, built, such operating cars with LIVE 3rd rail shoes) - was why I went to the trouble of setting up my 3rd rails as either Live or Dormant mode.  Basically, it was planned for various possible future situations that in reality, other than with Vern's cars at a few shows,  actually, heh, never happened again !!

 

However, my block signals  lamp circuits use low voltage AC CURRENT via which some of the connectivity circuitry uses the outside 3rd rails as continuity feeders (instead of, and to save the extra use of, all separate wiring ) for their circuits.  Of course, that system has its own On-Off switch and separate small power pack for powering same and the signal system.

 

(6) -- After all you have read here Tommy, its obvious I would need to produce a BOOK with text and detailed how-to photos to explain the countless details of scale carbody building.   Its somehwhat like the training needed to build the real (prototype) things, or build a real house, real airplane,  real boat, etc.   Then again,  I have been at it building models for 55 years (since about 1960),  so  one has to learn to crawl before they walk and run. And even today, I learn new construction ideas and tidbits here and there from other skilled modelers!!  A lot of experimenting,  studying, research, and model making skill learning, as ANY skilled scratchbuilder of note here will also tell you, comes first.  A few such persons to recall: Steve, aka SIRT;  MWB;  Terry-CTA Fan; Joe Porretto (subway);  Ben Fioriello, NJ HiRailer Club; O-Scale Carl, etc.,

 

Its like Brain Surgery,  you train and learn,  study, experiment on donated cadaver bodies in medical schools, for years,  before you operate on a live human being's body or, heh, brain !.  Not something you do "from the first time get-go" !

 

It takes an extreme  (heh, almost insane? !!))  level of discipline, patience, dedication, drive, TIME and perseverence, to do what has to be done, year after year.

 

Check my "PHOTO ALBUM SETS" on Flickr of my layout and various types of rolling stock in specific albums

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/44268069@N00/sets

 

PS:  PHIL RANDALL -- I will answer your question (#7) by the weekend as I want to take some photos of how it was done  - I have to go off line now to go out to eat dinner (11:30PM, heh)

 

Regards - Joe F

 

 

Wow Frank,thanks for the time and patience to answer these technical model subway questions, Have you ever adapted those 2 rail Q car subway trucks onto current MTH or Lionel subway models? or how about making any end gates that actually compress on curves.In the case of the Lionel models that have electrical tethers and flat drawbars between the subway cars, i was mentally toying with the idea of Q car WAB coupler castings with actual pin plugs for electrical continuity,Did you do anything like that in your post war steel IRT subway cars.thanks,Galo 3rd.

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer! You are a real craftsman.

Just another silly question. Obviously you have refined your technique over the years to produce a magnificent product., I have fooled with cardstock before and read many of the tips on the net. I had a problem with white glue. Rubber cement worked, but I had paint bleeding issues at the edges.

 

When affixing cardstock what adhesive did you use? Did you use different adhesives (i.e on small parts and large surfaces)? Did you spread it evenly on all surfaces or only at select points?

 

I had a problem with warping due to moisture over time. Did you spray the cardstock with sealant before painting?  I used the 3M spray from art supply stores, but found it incompatable with many paints. So did you spray the cardstock with sealant before painting and if so what kind?

 

Thanx again.

 

Hello Tommy

 

Your question is quickly answerable - so I will do it now.

 

(a) -- BOTH SIDES of my cardstock panels, parts, walls, strips, that will be visibly seen on both sides, are painted using solvent based (Floquill or Testors) paints.  Even the, any, unseen parts of cardstock walls or panels,  are pre-painted with a solvent based paint.  This painting prevents moisture in the air from getting "into" the fabric of the cardstock, as that solvent paint seals it.  NEVER USE A WATER BASED PAINT on cardstock.. as it it not fully moisture repellent..

 

(b) -- ALL of my car sides and any buildings using cardstock for certain parts or walls,  have those wall panels reinforced with BASSWOOD strips (floor and roofline header strips...to prevent "bowing" of any wall panels.  The longer and bigger the cardstock panel is, ie: for large building walls,  the more and increasingly heavier, stronger framework bracing strips must be placed and spaced upon interior side of the wall.  Just like plywood exterior skin sheathing 4x8 sheets for house, garage, shed, walls, is interior braced by various size studs !

 

(c) -- I used DUCO Tube Cement mainly for 50 years -- now its getting harder to find. I used that DUCO product on cardstock, plastic, wood, even small metals.  But any "sticky type, gooey" contact solvent based cement like DUCO is OK.  I also use Walthers GOO frequently on Cardstock sections, small panels, cardstock rivet overlay panels, etc.  The chemical (solvent) properties of those glues work and bond well with pre-painted wood or cardstock surfaces.

 

Many of my "cardstock with wood" constructed subway, traction,  cars (ie: composition cars)  are 30 years old now and still in excellent shape.

 

Of course, my train room is a semi-below-ground basement of 4 poured, formed concrete walls and concrete floor, in a fairly modern brick and concrete row home  -- so there is basically no exterior moisture (rain or weather-dampness) entering my train room walls.  It is also climate controlled so its never very hot nor humid,  nor very cold.    THAT ALONE is important to preserve any kind of models built using paper and various cardstock materials.   Constant or frequent room "dampness and humidity" and worse yet,  direct water exposure, are the enemies of such materials  !

 

(d) If you want to PRE-PRIME your cardstock,  I ALSO  find that TESTORS Dull Coat or even GLOSS COAT spray,  given several time-spaced light spray coats,  will seal cardstock well,  and will work with most solvent based spray or bottle paints,  (even water based hobby paints, which I avoid for such materials anyway)

 

I have used some water based hobby paints on plastic, metal and pre-sealed (see above) wood materials, but prefer the longer lasting and firmer attaching, better wearing,  solvent based paints.

 

Regards - Joe F

Thanx again Joe! That information was extremely helpful.

 

 

Hello Phil  !  (Randall)

 

Well,  better later than never, heh.  Just had so many unexpected things turning up to handle over ther past week, and what with the stinking hot weather and heat and etc...

 

That ATLAS (former Industrial Rail Co. product) Deck Roof Trolley was a sort of "quickie" job to make a lighted "temporary dummy" trolley for sitting, and posing, on my trolley tracks, and for night "Lighted Still Shots". 

 

It can easily converted to be powered by removing ONE DUMMY wheelset from each truck,  and installing in its place, a NWSL Magic Carpet motored 30" wheelset (one M/C Unit put in EACH truck) and installing on the roof, and wiring up, scale operating trolley poles.  However, I have more than enough operating streetcars for my trolley lines around and under my EL system.

 

For now,  it is a static (but it rolls on the track and lights up) street trolley.

 

So, to answer your question,  how it was created, with PHOTOS I just took,  attached herein,  I did the following:

 

(1) -- GUTTED the interior of the body shell of that bump and go mechanism and crap;

 

(2) -- Installed a new wooden strips-floor inside the car,  after reinforcing the now exposed original plain smooth plastic floor;

 

(3) -- Installed wiring for clerestory ceiling lighting along the interior and end car line wall and ceiling corners;

 

(4) -- installed my own created advertising card strips over the windows on both side of the car;

 

(5) -- corrected the somewhat slightly inaccurate paint scheme via covering the existing cream yellow paint with the proper shade of red paint in areas where red should be at some various small locations;

 

(6) -- removed the frosted window glazing materials entirely and replaced all such with glear plastic window glazing, but NOT including the upper clerestory roof windows; 

 

(7) -- slightly modified the end windows to Third Ave R'way style double-sash windows on both ends of the car;

 

(8) -- Hand made and installed slatted wooden wall (aka "bowling alley style aisle") seats under the windows on both sides of the carbody interior;

 

(9)  Added Q Car company rooftop mounted (on the vestibule bonnet roofs) scale trolley bells, and installed brass rod trolley hooks to hook poles down when needed.

And repainted the shiny plastic roof the proper shade of flat black;

 

(10) -- Hand made and installed under each end of the car,  under each end platform, the slatted safety trip-guard-gate (to protect against people or things of the track); 

 

(11) -- ON THE TRUCKS --  see before and after photos -- I took the original "oversized" yet scale looking plastic sideframes - and re-worked them to be trimmed down more to scale proportions for the carbody;

 

(12) -- I created and installed, using small machine screws and nuts, my own hand made TRUCK BOLSTERS to attach each pair of modified sideframes to.  And installed NWSL 30" insulated scale steel wheelsets, drilling 1/8" bore holes in the back side of each sideframe BEHIND the journal boxes. And used brass wire wipers as shown in photos,  to take current from track, to wheels, to axels, to carbody interior for lighting.

 

(13) --I then repainted the trucks and underbody to get rid of thast "shiny plastic" looking original paint !

 

Well, that's it, and here are the (many !) photos below !

 

AT THE VERY BOTTOM of the photos column are shown two photos of the ATLAS carbody in BEFORE and one photo AFTER -- the described Conversion

 

I hope I have somewhat answered your question adequately !

 

Regards !! - Joe F

=================================================

 

 BELOW  -- At left, modified original plastic sideframe, and at right - the oversized as original, sideframe

 

 

BELOW -- at left,  the reduced to scale proportions, plastic sideframe,  and at right, the original oversized plastic sideframe, showing INSIDE of the red cut-lines,  what portion of the sideframes remained, and what was removed as seen OUTSIDE the red cut-lines

 

 

BELOW -- Broadside image of the completed car with many added details, and scale proportioned trucks, and installation of additional red paint where required to match prototype paint schemes for TARS cars

 

 

BELOW -- the next following FIVE  photos show the Body and truck details in closeup of the revised and "up-scaled" ATLAS carbody

 

NOTE in BELOW photo the OVERSIZED as original - ATLAS truck sideframe,  compared to the re-worked to scale proportions,  identical sideframes now under the streetcar.

 

 

BELOW -- The next 3 photos show the basic but functional interior details (installed bench seats, new wood floor, people, car card ad signs, and new clear windows)

 

 

BELOW -- full reworked underbody of the carbody, with the rebuilt trucks and wiring, and axel electrical pickup wipers because the trucks are ALL plastic - and the FOLLOWING PHOTO a closeup of one truck showing fabricated new TRUCK BOLSTER and electrical pickup wiper rods

 

 

BELOW -- Overhead end view showing modified end windows and roof hardware (Bell and pole hooks) added and roof repainted

 

 

BELOW -- lastly,  a 3/4 end view of the completed car as up-scaled and detailed from the basic original ATLAS style "TARS" bump-n-go streetcar.

 

 

BELOW -- The LAST THREE photos show the same car "in service" both outside of, and under, my overhead NYC Elevated Train Line !

 

 

 

BELOW -- ATLAS O-Scale  ORIGINAL T.A.R.S. CAR Model seen as delivered by ATLAS from the box

 

 

 

BELOW - BROADSIDE - BELOW -- ATLAS O-Scale  ORIGINAL T.A.R.S. CAR Model seen as delivered by ATLAS from the box 

 

 

BELOW -- BROADSIDE of My own as reworked and up-scaled and correction-repainted to proper paint scheme, ATLAS O-Scale T.A.R.S. Car.  Compare the ABOVE with the BELOW re-worked carbody !

 

 

Overall that looks pretty good, Joe! 

 

Are you satisfied with the ride height of the modified car? 

 

Jeff C

Hello Jeff C

 

For the time being,  its OK for my needs -- but if and when I power it, I will likely install the scale and proper METAL Maximum Traction trucks from Q-Car Company (the only one left making O-Scale trucks in the USA) and that will (allow to)  lower the car body a bit more.  I can do it a bit more with the present trucks, but they would foul the platform steps when turning on curves.  The original cars of this type had "Maximum Traction" trucks  with the larger wheel inboard, and motorized.  The forward facing wheel was much smaller (usually 20" or 22") and cleared the end platform steps for sharp streetcar track curves. 

 

The trucks (ATLAS) for the car in mention, are satisfactory but to facilitate truck swing,  the car has to sit a bit higher. Or the trucks must be moved much further back to car center to completely clear the end steps....allowing a lowering of the body a bit more.  

 

Like I stated, it was a FUN "QUICKIE" JOB  for a static unpowered, lighted car. And the as-ORIGINAL unconverted ATLAS car  in its 3 rail "bump n' go" version sits EVEN HIGHER on those trucks !

 

regards - Joe F

I love your work, just amazing.

 

 

Thanks so much.

A GREAT job on the Industrial Rail trolley.

 

I bought two at $39.95 each a long time ago and fooled with them,  but mine didn't come out near as good. I always thought the Industrial Rail trolleys were "sleepers" and just begged to be modified and played with.

Hello Jon (Mill City) and Tommy !

 

Thanks both for your nice comments. 

 

Tommy - I have another of those ATLAS shells (the one with "City Transport" under the windows.) -- that body is the one the un-converted truck sideframe seen in my above TARS  car "trucks conversion" photos,   came from.

 

Steve Olsen (the site owner of the "NYC Model Transit Assn". website, at   http://www.nycmodeltransit.org/index.html ) was at my home and my EL-Trolley Layout Friday night (last night) for some hours with a number of other East Penn Traction Club members - and Steve had an identical ATLAS Brill body shell he brought with him and which he did up first-class-beautifully as a "Brooklyn Rapid Transit" (BRT) Deck Roof trolley, incorporating some needed details-additions made to the body to BRT-ize it properly !. 

 

Entirely repainted, and decaled, lettered,  flawlessly and accurately -- the colors for the roof in the Salmon-Tan (pinkish) and Dark Red for the Body, with the many added details, full proper underbody parts, details and Maximum Traction Power & Trailer Trucks from Q-Car Company.  A lot more superior job (and it operates) than my "Track Queen Lighted Dummy"  TARS Atlas body shell.  I wish I had taken some photos of it while he was there and when it was running.

 

Seeing that "Atlas" BRT Car finished by Steve was, after a few years of my uncertainty, the motivation for what I plan to do to my long stored 2nd ATLAS body shell.

 

Those Brill Deck Roof body shells (the single cars only from the old original Industrial Rail, pre-Atlas era) when found reasonably cheap, are great for kitbashing and modifying.  I know someone with one who converted its deck roof to an arched roof !

 

Regards - Joe F

Mr Frank,

 

Thank you for taking the time to explain what you did with with your Atlas car. I spotted this car in a photo you posted some time back and was curious about it. I have one of these also. I have it disassembled right now. I think I may be able to replace the three rail axles with Atlas freight car 33 inch diam. scale wheels on the trucks. I may try that though they do look almost like they could go under a 3/8" scale streetcar (over sized trucks).

 

 

Hello Phil ( R)

 

Glad you enjoyed my ATLAS O trolley conversion writeup and photos.  I mentioned in my message above about the same ATLAS O streetcar that my friend Steve Olsen converted and detailed and repainted as a Brooklyn Rapid Transit (BRT) streetcar.

 

Here is a photo of that completed and operating car customized by Steve Olsen that I found - so you can see the quality.  NOTE that is has the proper Maximum Traction Trucks under it (produced by Q-Car Co.)

 

You can see the beautiful finished results by Steve.  The car does not yet have any interior, however. 

 

Regards ! - Joe F

Joe...you are doing a fine job explaining your work and helping folks here....this is what I was talking about when we spoke many months ago! 

 

Thanks,

Alan

Hi Joe,

 

Thanks for the kind words about the BRT car. That Industrial Rail/Atlas car body makes nice starting point for scale model conversion. I have to finish it with some interior detail. I have all the pieces, just a matter of getting it done!

 

Hello again Alan !

 

Thanks for stopping by and for the encouraging words. 

 

Yes, it is mainly because of your email contact to me very many months ago and our later phone conversations between us that you encouraged and convinced me to return again to contributing modeling materials to OGR Forums after my 6 or so year dormant lurker-state here. 

 

Thanks for your continued support since then, and I still think YOU should take some close up "feature" photos of YOUR "EL" line on your layout.  Your EL line snaking thru those model city scenes of towering skyscrapers it absolutely astounding !  I like the one scene you had on a thread somehwere with the N/S Electroliner on your EL !

 

Here is a photo for you to enjoy, I'm sure !

 

Regards ! - Joe F

 

 

Hello Steve !  (Olsen)

 

You are welcome !  I expected you likely did in fact already have the interior parts to eventually finish up the interior of your Brooklyn "ATLAS" Car !

 

Thanks for coming to my open house last Friday (August 7th, 2015) for the East Penn Club Member Meeting  along with other EPTC members.  It was good seeing you and enjoyed having you there and you running your ATLAS Brooklyn streetcar, as well as the other EPTC Members I hosted with you at my layout!   

 

ALSO, thanks and that was very nice of you,  to post on your NYC Model Transit Assn. FACEBOOK PAGE,  Link -- https://www.facebook.com/nycmodeltransit  --    those EXCELLENT photos you took both, of  some of my long  stored but static-displayed modules of my (was modular built 32' x 8' in size) HO Scale NYC EL & Trolley Layout, as well as  my operating O-Scale NYC EL & Trolley Layout.  You have a good photographic scene eye ! I enjoyed you and others watching and photographing the EL trains and streetcars running ! BELOW is just ONE of your photos of my HO SCALE  NYC EL & TROLLEY  Layout !

 

Regards ! - Joe F

 

BELOW - Joseph Frank's HO Scale NYC EL Local Station and Street Scene

 

I would  definitely buy this book if it was published very interesting