questions about DZ-1000 Switch Machine

Joe,

Check the below link...   looks like one yellow is going to switch and has a common out, then green is going to a completely different switch and has its common coming out.

http://www.z-stuff.net/app4.html 

No problem using SPDT center off momentary contact switches.  I had them all over.

There are diodes inside the Z1000 switch machine.  This may account for the readings you're getting.  There is also a tiny microswitch inside, which may have failed.  I don't see how a toggle switch could burn out a Z1000, since they internally disconnect after the switchg is thrown.  Zander uses an electric motor to throw the switch; it's an ingenious design inside.

To test a machine, apply hot to the center terminal of the motor, and touch ground to each of the outside terminals in turn.  Use about 12-14 volts.  If it doesn't work, throw the motor by hand using the little prong in the arc atop the motor, and then try again.

southernrr - thanks for info. I can use it.

RJR - your advice on testing the motor was almost word for word what I got from Dennis Zander! Excellent!

WRT Mr. Zander

As RR said SPDT toggle switches are fine.

Testing the motor is as RR said - the one is truly burned out.

For item 2 on my list as long as the motor switches I am ok. Deniss did not explain the voltage - just said it was ok.

While I am at it my compliments to Dennis Zander. He has never failed to answer my emails very fast.

I am buying some more SPDT momentary switches to replace the one I don't like plus a couple of SPDTs I discovered were not momentary. Once these are installed on the control panel I will replace the dead DZ-1000 with a spare I tested and see how things go.

I agree with you regarding Dennis Zander of Z-Stuff.  He stands behind his product and is always willing to discuss issues.

The 40+ switches on my layout were about half NJ INternational switch motors and half Z1000, all controlled by toggles.  The NJI machines need heavy wire as they draw a lot of current, the Z1000 can use fine wire as their draw is small.  I started adding signal lights at the toggles, and then decided it would be easier to use the Z controllers and replace key NJI motors with Z1000.  Submini toggles are fine for the Z1000, if you elect not to use the Z-stuff controllers.

RJR:

Because the toggle switches don't keep the switch LED lights on I am going to add dwarf signals at the turnouts using the DZ-1008 relay. I hooked up one the other night and the circuit works just fine.

I also found out something else. You are correct about there being diodes inside the DZ-1000 motors. I had diodes connected in series with all toggle switches when I was running Atlas O switch machines. For Atlas O the toggles are connected to the power line. The diodes cut the waveform in half (AC to DC) to help keep the coils in the switch machine from burning out. I never took them out for the connections to the DZ-1000. Denis said they need to go since there are diodes inside the motor and the extra ones could mess up operation.