Does anybody have any tricks or tools for taking apart tin plate cars and straightening the tabs so they wont break.
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curious in that one myself. also wonder what you do when the tabs are broke. goes with my post
I try to get the pieces apart by not straightening the tabs completely. Also when bending only move the tab a small amount at a time. Bending the metal work hardens it and makes it brittle and more likely to break. Slow steps minimizes the effect.
Pete
I had to solder the parts if it's in a spot you can do that.
Gene,
Many, many years ago a very wise man (my grandfather) instructed me in a method to reduce the number of broken tabs to almost zero. The first step is to allow yourself plenty of time. If you rush you can and will break tabs. I did at first and ruined a few pieces.
The tools you'll need are: A small screwdriver with blade that's as thin as possible. One pair of sub-miniature needle nose pliers. A 45-60 watt soldering pencil/or small iron with chisel-tip. A soldering gun has too much heat.
Work on one tab at a time. Heat the tab with your soldering pencil. As it heats work the screwdriver under tab gradually. Continue until you can grip with needle nose. Continue to heat gradually as you ALMOST straighten tab. DO NOT attempt to straighten completely. Straighten just enough to disassemble piece AFTER you've completed all tabs.
When it comes time to reassemble piece, DO NOT bend tabs. Reheat and put a slight twist in tab, just enough to hold piece together. Remember to work slow one tab at a time.
Simply follow these easy steps and you will experience far less broken tabs. As I said my grandfather taught this method to me years ago.(I'm now 72 yrs old)
God Bless,
"Pappy"
I try to bend in a new way or place, different from the original, to avoid re-stressing one area.
I like only a half twist/ half fold where I can get away with it.
Re-painting? Anneal it before removal.
Broken? I've JB welded new tabs to the inside edge. I scored, and etched the metals, and got them very flat. I protected the clamp block from adhering with non stick foil, or plastic wrap.
I did a baby Blue comet car once. The bench seating assembly was very hard to work with.
Oh, those tabs! But in the end it looks nice, paint finish came out well. But I don't think
I'll do another anytime soon!
Pappy,
Looks like our Grandfathers taught us the same restoration techniques, very nice technical wording with your explanation also. Right on the money!
PCRR/Dave
Dave,
He and his train buddy's were the best friends I ever had. He past in 1955 thinking about TCA (mostly rumors then). He said, "Anyone wanting the preservation of tinplate trains couldn't be all bad".
God Bless,
"Pappy"
heating the tabs makes sooooo much sense. i'll be trying that trick! thanks, jeff
And twisting them slightly instead of bending back over. Just a bit of a twist will do it.
Had never thought of a soldering iron to anneal with, brilliant.
Study the tab location when reassembling.Only two or three tabs need to be twisted to hold things together. Leave the rest unused. If you ever need to take it apart again, you have the other tabs to use that have not been stressed as many times.
In normal use by adults, all those tabs are not needed for added strength.
Steve
Gentlemen,
As usual Steve is absolutely right on the money, we have been cheating like this for many years when restoring old beat up rolling stock, and if something then happens that the rolling stock needs repaired or restored again, the unused tabs are there for
the additional work. Having watched and read Steve's technical work for years now, Steve may know more about restoring Tin Plate than any one left alive, if you have time review his Lionel 810 Crane Restoration work, in one of the threads here on the OGR, some of the very best ever done.
PCRR/Dave
To All Concerned,
I also concur with Steve & Dave. I also think that it's up to the person doing the repair. If it's a piece that will need to be opened repeatedly, by all means do not use all the tabs.
God Bless,
"Pappy"
